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Discussion Starter #1
I am at wits end trying to figure out what is ailing my 99 crv. I will give as much information as I can about repairs and issues. Started a year ago when car had trouble starting and accelerating. Mechanic said spark plugs were toast, then valves needed to be adjusted, then cat converter replaced. Seemed to help but still experienced issues. Saw 2 more mechanics. Said couldn't find anything because no codes were popped. Replaced throttle position sensor, plugs again, cleaned out throttle body, intake manifold, new fuel filter. Seemed to work for a couple days and back to the same old not wanting to accelerate and stall. Now it has manifested into a very specific problem. When I accelerate in any gear right around 2000rpms the tach drops and i loose power. NO matter how hard i stomp the gas. If i feather it, sometimes it will push through and i can accelerate. CEL light is on always, brake light will go on during first 15- 30 mins of driving. When the brake light is on, I have no issues and it drives like a champ. When off and Just the CEL, all hell breaks loose.????? Have to wait about 5 mins on cold start before throwing it into gear or it will stall unless i give it gas. If i stay in motion backing up or going forward for 20 ft it will not stall when in idle. Any other questions I will be happy to answer.

New water pump, timing belt, radiator, plugs and wires at 151k
Valves adjusted, TPS, cat converter, plugs, seafoamed through brake booster, and fuel filter at 164k
Losing my mind at 168k....

If anyone can point me in the right direction or has any insight, I will be indebted to you for a substantial amount of time....time tbd.

Thanks
 

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Any more info on what type of maintenance it's had throughout its life?
 

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Did it ever run right after the timing belt change? I have heard of timing belts being a tooth off and causing running issues. Could also be a cheap belt has already been damaged? Maybe a couple teeth broke off?

I am confused because you said the CEL light is always on, but the mechanic said no codes?

For the brake light it is probably needing the fluid changed or topped off. This issue comes up frequently and the float doesn't float correctly when the fluid gets old. The light goes off when things warm up and comes on when cold. You could try topping the fluid up all the way to max, or you should just replace all the fluid.
 

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Have you cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve? Mine kept stalling after a cold start and running rough. After cleaning it though, it worked correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IAC has been replaced.

There was about 6 months of it acting up on and off after the valves, cat conv, and valve adjustment where there were no lights or codes.

I didn't think they had a MAF sensor. Ill look at a thread on how to clean it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just cant understand how the "service brake" light, corrispondense with my car having a horrible time trying to shift past 2000rpm. Its telling me that when im having brake problems, the car will run fine?
 

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I stand corrected
early Hondas used MAP sensors, not MAF sensors
what did they say about the first part of assuming?
:)
 

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When the check Engine Light is on does the engine rev past 2000? I agree with Shryp, why the CEL is on but no codes. Unless the scanner they use is not sophisticated enough. Did the mechanics check the distributor? Try this when the engine is @ operating temperature, while in neutral try to rev pass 2500. See if the CEL will come on? You might have 2 separate problems. When the brake light is on, check for battery voltage. Do you have any problems with any electrical device? When the symptoms arise, check for battery voltage. You might have an overvoltage problem. Let us know.
 

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My guess is junk in the gas tank clogging the intake to the fuel pump - enough to run the engine but not enough to go full throttle.
 

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Not revving above 2K sounds like it's going into limp mode. If you're getting a CEL there ARE codes. Go to a local parts store and ask if they have a reader you can use. In Baltimore I know all Advance Auto and AutoZone locations will read your codes for free and even give you a printout if you ask.

Either get the print out or write the codes down then reset them and see if they come back.


As for the brake light it's likely another issue. There's NO viable reason it would put the car into limp. I'd start by checking the pads and seeing if they're worn enough to have your fluid level low (which would light the brake light on the dash). Then I'd take a look at the brake fluid and probably go ahead and flush it all out for fresh DOT 3 or 4.



... oh yeah, post what the CEL codes were
 

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On newer CR-V ( thanks to runaway Toyota vehicles ) the engine does go drop to 800 rpm if the brake pedal is depressed while accelerating. If the brake pedal is not returning fully after use the engine will try to idle once 2000 rpm is hit.

I know my 2013 has that feature, the Honda dealer get 2-3 complaints a week about loss of acceleration, mostly by people that drive with the right foot and brake with the left.
 

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On newer CR-V ( thanks to runaway Toyota vehicles ) the engine does go drop to 800 rpm if the brake pedal is depressed while accelerating. If the brake pedal is not returning fully after use the engine will try to idle once 2000 rpm is hit.

I know my 2013 has that feature, the Honda dealer get 2-3 complaints a week about loss of acceleration, mostly by people that drive with the right foot and brake with the left.
First generation CRV still had a physical cable connecting the gas pedal to the throttle body. I can rev my 2000 while holding the brake pedal.
 
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