[lenstar65]

Hi everyone... I'm getting ready to do a oil change and I usually use mobile one oil and Mobil 1 filters... I have a 2000 CR-V what is the correct oil weight?... Any recommendations on an oil filter if I can't find a mobile one? The oil is supposed to be good for 15K but I only go 10K... Anyway any advice would be appreciated... Thanks!

 

[JohnTaper]

You'll open a can of worms with opinions on this one.... I don't care what oil it is and what filter. I do not, and would not go 10,000 miles on any oil and filter. I hope you are keeping an eye on oil level between those long intervals. Synthetic is fine as long as you don't drive mostly very short trips

Run what you like but I wouldn't go more than 5,000 miles even on full synthetic. I personally run valvoline max life and change it between 3,000 to 4,000 miles because it is cheap and as quality as any other premium brand. Wix oil filters are my preference but I use many different types.

I recommend a high quality conventional or synthetic blend and changing the oil every 3,000 miles. I recommend wix gold filters, but anything will do as long as it is changed regularly.

I run 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. 10w40 would also be fine or even straight 30 weight in summer. I believe they recommend 5w30.

 

[fishycomics]

SAE20 conventional oil, 5w-20

 

[JohnTaper]

SAE20 conventional oil, 5w-20

No fishy. This is first gen. They do not take 5w20. The recommendation is 5w30. Figured out why i couldn't put a picture in. I'm an idiot.

 

[PhilF]

Probably suggest Mobil1 5w-30 High Mileage and a Mobil1 M104A , depending on consumption, I'd suggest perhaps 7,500mi change intervals

 

[Lochinvar]

I use an STP extended life 2808 because of the silicone anti-drainback valve, which I consider the most important part. Most 'synthetic' oil filters have that too. STP kits just happen to be on sale at AutoZone pretty consistently these days.

Honda recommends 5w30 for all temperatures, like mentioned above, or 10w30 if you don't drive in freezing or colder weather.

These engines don't require synthetic oil, so you can use conventional if you want. I use synthetic, but that's also because it happens to be on sale at AZ with the filters I like.

DO NOT WAIT 10,000 MILES TO CHANGE YOUR OIL. The built in maintenance minder (if reset properly) will turn orange around 6,000 miles, and red around 7,500 miles. Regardless of what oil/filter you use, always change your oil at least that often. 'Extended' service intervals are what damage engines, not low quality oil. No oil lasts 10,000 miles if you want the car to last.

Also, it's good practice to rotate tires, and inspect brakes, suspension, bearings, exhaust pipe, underbody, hoses, wiring, fuel lines, etc. at every oil change. I have saved myself from part failures by doing regular inspections.

 

[Carbuff2]

I agree with everything said above, but we DO extend oil change intervals when using today's synthetic oils.

I generally ran 8K OCIs on synth when I was running 15 - 20K miles a year. (Now, I do it annually)

 

[Lochinvar]

I agree with everything said above, but we DO extend oil change intervals when using today's synthetic oils.

I generally ran 8K OCIs on synth when I was running 15 - 20K miles a year. (Now, I do it annually)

I've heard several recommendations against that, because changing the oil is not about the oil degradation specifically. What I've heard is that you need to change the oil because of contamination from carbon deposits and acids in the blow-by gases. Synthetic oil or not, you're still going to get the same contamination from the engine being used. Also, oil that gets baked onto parts of the engine is no longer lubricating the engine and just clogging things up. Changing the oil more frequently prevents that. If you take off the valve cover for adjustment, and parts of the engine are brown on the inside, it means you're not changing the oil frequently enough.

At least, that's what I've heard from shop mechanics. My engine is a little brown on the inside too. 😂😂

 

[Carbuff2]

 

[pick1e]

5w30. I think any filter with the anti-drainback valve will be sufficient.

 

[Lochinvar]

5w30. I think any filter with the anti-drainback valve will be sufficient.

For a time, yes, but rubber valves will cook to death in under 3000 miles, so you want a silicone one if you don't change your oil that frequently.

 

[PhilF]

Yep, that's true. Question: When's the last time you bought something BETTER than what you thought you needed and were disappointed?

 

[diyman]

I repeat. I would not use synthetic oil for 10 K mile oil changes. Synthetic oil 5 K at most.
Now 100% synthetic like Amsoil I would go 10 K.
Oil filter depends on oil change intervals.
This is my opinion.

 

[tglenn]

Hi everyone... I'm getting ready to do a oil change and I usually use mobile one oil and Mobil 1 filters... I have a 2000 CR-V what is the correct oil weight?... Any recommendations on an oil filter if I can't find a mobile one? The oil is supposed to be good for 15K but I only go 10K... Anyway any advice would be appreciated... Thanks!

5w-30. I use Motorcraft synthetic blend because walmart has a 5 quart jug for under $20. any synthetic or blend that meets the specs is fine. There is nothing magic about Mobil 1. I use Honda filters. No way I would go 10K. I go 6K but I wouldn't stretch it that far except for the fact that I drive 150 miles a day 6 days a week. Your 2000 will likely suffer sticking rings (common Honda problem) if you stretch it past 10K

 

[sicnarf]

Hi everyone... I'm getting ready to do a oil change and I usually use mobile one oil and Mobil 1 filters... I have a 2000 CR-V what is the correct oil weight?... Any recommendations on an oil filter if I can't find a mobile one? The oil is supposed to be good for 15K but I only go 10K... Anyway any advice would be appreciated... Thanks!

I have a 2006 Honda CRV with 235,973 miles. At about 800 miles I started using Castrol 5W20 synthetic. I changed oil and filter each 5000 miles. I put in 4 quarts each oil change and drain 4 quarts out at he change. Compression is still great.

 

[Tony H]

1st Generation cats call for 5-30wt. I use DINO oil in my cars. Last time I adjusted the valves (200k miles) the Head was super clean without that brownish, burnt look you get from synthetics. As mentioned, synthetic oil may keep up it's lubrication values but the oil is still dirty with abrasive carbon deposits, etc.

 

[Fishboy]

Hi everyone... I'm getting ready to do a oil change and I usually use mobile one oil and Mobil 1 filters... I have a 2000 CR-V what is the correct oil weight?... Any recommendations on an oil filter if I can't find a mobile one? The oil is supposed to be good for 15K but I only go 10K... Anyway any advice would be appreciated... Thanks!

The correct viscosity should be printed tight on the oil filler cap. At least it has ben on all 5 CRVs I have owned.
I would use any good quality synthetic oil. I like Amsoil a lot and change it when the Maintenance Minder tells me to.
For filters again I recommend any good quality filter. I like the higher priced Purolator Pure One, Mobil One, Bosch, etc. Stay away from anything Fram. Fram filters, air, fuel, oil, just plain suck. Poor construction and poor filtering media.

 

[frontlinegeek]

5w30 of whatever favorite brand you want. If you use synthetic, then I wouldn't go much more than 6,000 miles between changes. Basically split the difference on dino oil vs modern engines with synthetic.

My Gen1 (2000) went to 130,000 miles before I traded it in and it didn't burn oil. I changed every 3000 miles even when I was on synthetic. Treat it nice and keep it living as long as you can.

 

[fishycomics]

notice the difference in Post 4 to the not shown one.so when I said SAE 20 it is clear as day with 5W30 @JohnTaper

 

[fishycomics]

The topic is cleaned up and thank you for your understanding