[jwats]

I just took delivery of a new CRV, and am planning to have my local mechanic do oil changes..I supply oil and filter, he charges $10 .A dealer oil change is inconvenient, and a full synthetic oil change is $72...It costs me about $40 doing it my way.

I am planning to use full synthetic..but wondered about the filters and whether OEM filters are recommended by all of you

I usually buy NAPA Gold..about $5 ordered in quantity

Thanks for thoughts and advice

John

 

[Kevin15]

About warranty, hang on to the receipts. NAPA Gold are made by Wix and will be just fine. In my OCD I found some -A01 OEM fitlers at a good price online, but I've yet to see any data they're any better.
Kevin

 

[Carbuff2]

X2 on what was stated above.

If you document your oil changes (and don't forget to reset the Maintenance Minder ) you will be covered on any warranty issues.


Regards filters: You will do fine with the NAPA Gold or WIX (same filter). Either of the available Honda OEM filters (suffix A01 or A02) will work fine also (cue Buffalo4 to mention particle size), and are a good value when purchased from an online dealer in lots of six. Some of the dealers (Bernardi) throw in the crush washers also.


+++++++++

On my '06 I have always used synthetic oil replaced at 7000 - 9000 mile intervals and mostly Honda A02 filters, and you can easily eat off my valvetrain it's so clean. (Well, maybe if your favorite food is Sliders, LOL)

 

[zroger73]

As tempting as it is to start "yet another oil/filter brand/interval discussion", I'll try and limit this to some facts:

1. Honda can't legally require you to use their oil or filter or their dealer's service as a condition of your warranty.

https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance

https://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/15/chapter-50

2. You can use any brand of oil and filter as long as the oil meets the minimum specifications as indicated in the owner's manual. Page 556 of the owner's manual states:

Recommended Engine Oil
- Genuine Honda Motor Oil
- Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the container.

Use a Genuine Honda Motor Oil or another commercial engine oil of suitable viscosity for the ambient temperature as shown. [The graph shows 0W-20 for all temperatures.]

Synthetic oil
You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade.

Notice the words "recommended" and "may" are used instead of "required" and "must". That leaves a gaping, legal hole as far as liability is concerned. Even if you were unable to provide evidence/proof that you did perform oil changes, Honda would have to prove that you didn't perform oil changes in order to deny a related warranty claim. The monetary and time costs of a forensic analysis and attorney could cost Honda more than a new engine.

You can use anything from unbranded conventional oil from the local dollar store to the most expensive synthetic on the market as long as it meets the requirements above. As long as you change it when the Maintenance Minder tells you to, your warranty will remain intact and the engine will last longer than you're likely to own the vehicle. Also, the oil change interval remains the same regardless of the type of oil you use - using a more expensive or more advanced oil does not lengthen the required oil change interval - at least as it relates to warranty. "Fancy" oils may not break down as quickly, but they still get dirty at the same rate as "cheap" oils which is why it is still important to use a quality filter and change the oil at the required interval.

What do I use? I buy Honda-branded A01 filters, Honda-branded 0W-20 full synthetic oil, a new crush washer, and I change the oil myself in about 15 minutes. Why? Why not. Honda-branded stuff is only a couple of dollars more than the non-Honda stuff. Even if its no better, it satisfies my OCD. $35 in Genuine Honda supplies every 9,000 miles or so is relatively insignificant and is cheaper than places like Walmart want for a conventional oil change using conventional, bulk oil. And, I know a new crush washer will be used, the drain plug is properly torqued, the filler cap is tight, and the correct oil and filter were used - things that are all-too-often missed by quick-lube places and even some dealers and independent mechanics.

 

[Buffalo4]

X2 on what was stated above.

If you document your oil changes (and don't forget to reset the Maintenance Minder ) you will be covered on any warranty issues.


Regards filters: You will do fine with the NAPA Gold or WIX (same filter). Either of the available Honda OEM filters (suffix A01 or A02) will work fine also (cue Buffalo4 to mention particle size), and are a good value when purchased from an online dealer in lots of six. Some of the dealers (Bernardi) throw in the crush washers also.


+++++++++

On my '06 I have always used synthetic oil replaced at 7000 - 9000 mile intervals and mostly Honda A02 filters, and you can easily eat off my valvetrain it's so clean. (Well, maybe if your favorite food is Sliders, LOL)

From : https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.autos.honda/hhcsX4iiRuc

"As of 2002, here's what Honda says about all their oil filters, regardless
of where made:
"...filter out at least 70 percent of the particles
that are 30 microns or larger, and 85 percent of the
particles that are 40 microns or larger."

"Honda considers the two filters identical and interchangeable. Whether a
dealership orders A01 or A02, what's actually shipped to them depends
entirely on warehouse stocks, and on no other factor.

Except for the fact that they are made by different companies using
differing manufacturing processes, A01 and A02 are the same filter, meeting
identical performance specs, with identical real-world behavior. "

From: http://www.fram.com/oil-filters/fram-extra-guard-oil-filter/
Comparison: 95% filtration efficiency: FRAM Group testing of average filter efficiency of PH8A, 3387A, and 4967 or equivalent FRAM TG or XG models under ISO 4548-12 for particles greater than 20 microns. Honda only requires 85% of particles 40 micron in size or larger.
I still don't trust the cheapest Fram, but that is me. I use the Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter which has a 99% rating and an excellent flow rating.\
I also use Mobil 1 or a Pennzoil Synthetic motor oil in either a 0w20 or 5w20 wt.



Reliable, who knows, but if you do some 'good' searching on actual filtration tests results, rather than the backwoods' boys cutting one open and claiming which oil filter is better by looks alone and doing absolutely NO filtering tests, then you will stay ignorant on oil filters and tell everyone how superior the Honda A-01 vs the A-02 is and how absolutely horrible FRAM oil filters are.
LOOK it up if you want actual FACTS!!.
Still, I wonder why Honda's filtration particle size requirements seem so low. Perhaps they get perfer oil flow volume over small particle size filtration? In Third World Countries, that may be more important if they can't do regular oil and filter changes as easily and cheaply as we can. HMMMM?
Amazes me at how many swear by the A01 vs the A02 when almost any aftermarket oil filter , filters better.
Buffalo4

 

[M.V.]

There is a problem with FRAM in Europe. The anti-drain valve is damaged.



It is concerning of FRAM PH5317, Purflux LS287, Mitsubishi MZ690070, Honda 15400-RBA-F01. These items are identical. These filters is used for Honda, Mitsubishi.

 

[Coastie05]

I use the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter on my Civic with Mobil 1 Fulls Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy with no issues. I'm going to start using it on the CRV next oil change.

 

[Sptfir]

I think most of the synthetic oils are just fine. I personally use Mobil 1 as it's been around the longest and is universally known. As far as filters they're generally the same (other than I won't use Fram). One of the magazines some time ago did a thorough check and rated the PureOne filter as tops. So given the choice I would use that or else the Honda branded ones (don't know who actually makes them, with my luck it's probably Fram).

 

[Buffalo4]

Let's see now. The 2000 CRV recommended an oil change every 7500 miles/yr and an oil filter change every 15000 miles/2 yrs. whichever happens first.
No synthetic, just plain 5w30 oil, I believe and a regular oil filter (not extended at that time) They still lasted over 200k miles easily.
But, in my '03 Ody, I use Mobil 1 0w20 or Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and I use a Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter (one of the recently highest rated oil filters). Overkill, yes, but I sleep better. I also change both my oil and filter between 4k and 7k miles , depending on how it looks to me. For what it costs, it is worth the peace of mind to me.
Regular changes are what I believe are most important and using the recommended oil and a quality oil filter.


Buffalo4

 

[Buffalo4]

There is a problem with FRAM in Europe. The anti-drain valve is damaged.
View attachment 125601
View attachment 125603
View attachment 125605
It is concerning of FRAM PH5317, Purflux LS287, Mitsubishi MZ690070, Honda 15400-RBA-F01. These items are identical. These filters is used for Honda, Mitsubishi.
View attachment 125609
View attachment 125611

How in the hell did the anti-drainback valve get through the filtering material? The center of the oil filter is where the filtered oil comes out,
There must have been some super high oil pressure or it somehow pushed through at the open end of the filter and that would take quite a bit of pressure.
It almost looks like it was a setup to badmouth Fram, but perhaps not. Any idea where those Fram filters were produced and what was the final result.
M.V.
Do you have a link to that above info?

Thanks,
Buffalo4

 

[M.V.]

There is a forum in Russia called as https://www.oil-club.ru/forum. This source is like bobistheoilguy forum. The members have no ideas at this moment.
The links are presented herein
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/28244-fram-ph5317-honda-kia-hyundai-mitsubishi/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/3120231/

 

[Buffalo4]

There is a forum in Russia called as https://www.oil-club.ru/forum. This source is like bobistheoilguy forum. The members have no ideas at this moment.
The links are presented herein
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/28244-fram-ph5317-honda-kia-hyundai-mitsubishi/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/3120231/

After looking at the second link,it sure looks like that filter has been on way past it change interval and that the bypass valve on the bottom was blocked and that oil pressure pushed that drain back valve into the center core. Surprised the can didn't blow. I wonder if this is a fairly isolated incident or widespread? Can't read the language.
Overall, it sure looks like that filter and oil were WAY over the change interval or the oil was of very poor quality and the wrong viscosity, etc.

Thanks for the links.

Buffalo4

 

[M.V.]

This is a widespread incident. The list of car models include Honda Accord, Honda CR-V, Mitsubishi Outlander, etc. The mentioned car owners maintain cars condition carefully. The oil change intervals and oil choice were normal.
Currently the damaged filters send to Sogefi Group representative. The forum members are waiting for answer.

 

[Buffalo4]

This is a widespread incident. The list of car models include Honda Accord, Honda CR-V, Mitsubishi Outlander, etc. The mentioned car owners maintain cars condition carefully. The oil change intervals and oil choice were normal.
Currently the damaged filters send to Sogefi Group representative. The forum members are waiting for answer.

Thanks for that info.
Looking forward to your future posts on the subject.
Still, that oil in that oil filter looked bad. (cruddy and super black)
Buffalo4

 

[M.V.]

The answer from representative has been received. Here it is: "Damage of the anti-drainback valve is caused by a malfunction of the oil pump. As a result of the influence of excess pressure, the filter media has been displaced and thus the displacement of the anti-drainback valve".
It seems this answer only misleads consumers. Meanwhile, there were identical problems with the filters of this company.

Originally these filters are produced by Purflux. FRAM, Honda, Mitsubishi and Nissan only distribute these filters under their own brand.

 

[Buffalo4]

The answer from representative has been received. Here it is: "Damage of the anti-drainback valve is caused by a malfunction of the oil pump. As a result of the influence of excess pressure, the filter media has been displaced and thus the displacement of the anti-drainback valve".
It seems this answer only misleads consumers. Meanwhile, there were identical problems with the filters of this company.
View attachment 134573

Originally these filters are produced by Purflux. FRAM, Honda, Mitsubishi and Nissan only distribute these filters under their own brand.

Thanks for your reply. I need to do some further research.
Thanks again,
Fram Europe filters are made and distributed by Sogefi Filtration,the same company that produces Purflux.
So?
Buffalo4