It's been made clear that regional temp ranges have played a roll in this issue so my guess is that different versions are used based on the climate of a region where issues are reported.Correct me if I'm wrong. Honda came out with several variations of the "Fix" I wonder if the later versions came closer to solving the problem. There was never much info out on all the variations.
no way..and i also don't believe there is several variations of a "fix" either. the engineers tweaked whatever they needed to and that's that. it's across the board whether it's going to miami or minneapolis.know way there variations, and it's dependent on where the final destination is..Ok, help me understand this and I do confess my ignorance on the tech stuff. All 2020 crvs are being built in Greensburg, Indiana (last I heard). Do they program the onboard computers differently depending upon where they are to be shipped?
I have literally never had my CRV above 4500 rpm (no where near it's redline, which I doubt you could cross anyway with all the safe-tune features in a stock 1.5T) ... and the one time ran it past 4000 rpm was one time as I recall.. when I had to accelerate to avoid a crazy traffic maneauvor by someone else on the freeway.Exactly my point. It moves the car and growls because it's working hard.
You're an engineer. You have to know the power is coming from somewhere. You're a lot more qualified than I am to explain it in detail. I only know that mechanical power comes from mechanical parts, and those parts never last forever.Working? Sure. Working "hard?" No.
If rpm still stays below 2000 rpm even under higher engine load, it has to use a richer fuel mixture to prepare for LSPI. Tuning like that is not good for OD.This engine actually works harder moving normally from a stop to about 25mph then at any other time. Turbo spools up quickly when you hit the gas from a stop and force the rpm past 1500, and then the engine and CVT quickly adjust as you ease back up once you reach speed.. and it settles in around 1500-1800 rpm. The first Honda engine in a CRV that actually works this way.. a little grunt from stop, then ease into sippy-cruisy mode.
Except you have misunderstood or distorted what I stated. This engine operates more prevalently under a constant load state, rather then constantly changing load... largely because the engine and CVT have been designed as a matched pair for a change. As such.. the engine does not need to be constantly reving higher for slight changes in steady state driving.If rpm still stays below 2000 rpm even under higher engine load, it has to use a richer fuel mixture to prepare for LSPI. Tuning like that is not good for OD.
You own an LX with a 2.4, if I recall correctly.. which drives completely differently.You're an engineer. You have to know the power is coming from somewhere. You're a lot more qualified than I am to explain it in detail. I only know that mechanical power comes from mechanical parts, and those parts never last forever.
Higher RPMs or not, I have complete confidence that the 2.4 engine in my LX, with full synthetic oil changes every 5500-6500 miles, will outlast the rest of the vehicle. Not forever, but longer than pretty much everything else around it. The older Japanese Big 3 engines from the 80s and 90s were great. The 2.5 that I had in my 2013 Rogue was great, despite it being "improperly" paired to the CVT and also being underpowered for the vehicle it was in. For all the complaints about the Rogue, and there are many, I never hear anyone complaining about engine problems. That 2.5 Nissan engine has a long history in older Altimas dating back many years before the Rogue was introduced, and it is an absolute beast. Not the best on fuel economy for sure, but as sure as the sun rising in the east and setting in the west.As for your segway about "those parts never last forever".... I'd rather have a powertrain that is efficent and runs predominantly in a relaxed state during driving... vs an engine being forced by it's design and poor mating to a CVT that must be constantly running at higher rpm for longer periods of time... a condition that puts more wear on the mechanics of an internal combusiton engine compared to one that is able to perform the same job more efficiently and at lower rpms.
How's everyone doing so far? Our lease on the 17 is almost up, and sad to say that the the dilution is still present.
My WI based 18' Touring with the "fix" applied looks just like yours does but my oil is still at 85%. We drove it for 250 miles on Thanksgiving day and the oil level stayed put. It still smells like gas the only difference is it got even blacker.
And yes William I know what gas smell like. For kicks I pulled my dipstick on my 15' Jeep GC with about 5,000 miles since the oil change and it smells like oil not gas. Great vehicle otherwise although I find the drivers seat to not be anywhere near as comfortable as my Jeep on longer trips.
I generally bypass your posts because they are verbose and argumentative. To quote you, others “misunderstand”, “distort what you said”, “ignore facts”, etc, and that is on this page alone. You state that you are an engineer and I assume you mean well but I do not know where you learned your “engineering” - obviously not where I learned mine.Except you have misunderstood or distorted what I stated. ... Bottom line.....CVTs are torque driven, not rpm driven. Granted there is always some connection between the two. ... The only reason the engine needs to rev higher when forcing a change of state in driving is driven by the physics of the CVT during a change of state.
Interesting, wish I knew. The 1.5 and "its" turbo seem to be designed together for each other: unlike most engines which have the turbo added after the fact, but the 1.5 and Turbo seemed to be designed together for one purpose.... are designed with planned obscalence in mind....
Some of the more salty posters on the topic here seem convinced that the spark plugs will outlive the engine itself.Interesting, wish I knew. The 1.5 and "its" turbo seem to be designed together for each other: unlike most engines which have the turbo added after the fact, but the 1.5 and Turbo seemed to be designed together for one purpose.
NOW, if only Honda can keep up its usually reliability. Can this new engine (combined with turbo) keep up reliability 8-10 years from now?
I find this connection between RPM and OD to be of extreme importance.Not that any of this really matters as far as I can tell with respect to the thread topic, but since it is in the discussion mix, it deserves to be clarified accordingly. Though the fact that the 1.5T is most often running at between 1500 and 2000 rpm for most drivers... that could be a silent factor in some of the oil rise some owners see under some conditions. A cold engine running in cold weather with a very relaxed rpm... certainly will not heat and stay heated as well as an older engine that needs to be running at 2500-3500 rpm for the same result.
I'm not looking to pick a fight with you, because maybe my experience is simply different, but the life of the "total powertrain" is complete nonsense in my humble opinion. If a Nissan or Subaru has a faulty CVT, nobody goes and replaces a perfectly fine engine along with installing a new CVT just for the hell of it. When a Subaru boxer engine suffers massive oil consumption problems, nobody blames the transmission.The best way to look at this is in terms of the total powertrain... ie: engine + CVT. A well tuned and mated engine+CVT is a much bigger factor in the life expectancy of the power train. An engine poorly matched with a CVT is going to have pre-mature end of life in many cases.
In the 2.4, just don't hit the accelerator hard until the engine has a chance to warm up and circulate oil properly. Once at temperature, you can drive like a maniac on a racetrack, and engine wear will remain minimal.As is already well known.. it is simply the fact that the 1.5T is extremely thermal efficient.. maybe the the best ever from Honda (and maybe to Honda's detriment in the case of the CRV) ....
Only two comments to your long post, so I have clipped out the relevant part.As your own posts evidence, keeping the rpms (and therefore the operating temperature) too low can cause its own set of problems, to wit, oil dilution. Your assertion that a good CVT will help protect the 1.5T engine in the CR-V doesn't hold water in my opinion. To the contrary, the exact opposite could be true. This pairing between engine and CVT was made too efficient for its own good, and you have stated exactly that on this forum in recent days. You posted this exactly one week ago on page 131 of this thread:
What has happened historically with competitors' vehicles is still relevant to this discussion, if only for finding proper context.Other manufacturers design and reliability practices is irrelevant to this discussion.