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Merely suggesting that, as a supposed wise man once told me, that I was making an inference unsupported by the data as the data points were based on underlying use patterns that were too different. Much like an long distance highway cruiser compared to a short-tripper in the context of fuel dilution.

We all have our opinions and biases. No need to continue to try and change them with multi-paragraph (and condescending) responses.
I think your point is valid, if a Civic has high mileage, one can just as reasonable assume that it because it is being used frequently and likely for long periods of driving that would eliminate most OD concerns even if you had the issue vs OD (and its failures) does not exist because a few have high mileage without failures.

In fact, I think the "evidence" would lean more toward the former case vs no OD concerns. High millage on a relativity new car that is reported commonly being driving in "sports" mode most of the time ,as evidence it holds up, to me, if not a a very compelling argument, when it is commonly suggested to avoid OD drive n "sports" mode and drive longer trips. Some have reported to do the same by their Honda dealer.
Now if the Civic was 25 years old with (high mileage) like my Camry V6 without engine failure, I would have high confidence to say the "evidence" leans that my 2017 CRV (oops, Camry) doesn't have any OD problem. LOL
 

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Honestly, I've never heard of an oil extractor for an auto, except for an inboard boat engine. I'll google it.

Would it remove as much oil as draining from the plug?

Edit: nevermind, I read a few articles on it and I'll keep draining from the plug, plus I have to wipe everything clean after changing the filter. Thanks for the suggestion
Use oil extractor for the short change intervals. Change filter every other oil change. It draws out a full 3.7 quarts
 

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Are you one whose vehicle has had OD and this seems to help?

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
From the start I was at 0.25” above the full mark. The highest I reached was 0.63”. I had TSB 18-114 performed. It stayed at the full mark for the next 1,000 miles. After that it climbed back to 0.25” until I have an oil change. This is the experience repeats it self each time. It stays at the full mark for several hundred miles after a change but eventually it grows back to being 0.25”.
 

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Yet another video on the subject.
One of the better objective presentations on the matter... with sound advice....

... except for showing the wrong dipstick for this engine. I get that it is an animation... but details are important if you are going to talk about this issue.

Nothing new for members of this forum who have been active in discussing the matter, but it presents the consolidated learning pretty well for any new owners.
 

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I think your point is valid, if a Civic has high mileage, one can just as reasonable assume that it because it is being used frequently and likely for long periods of driving that would eliminate most OD concerns even if you had the issue vs OD (and its failures) does not exist because a few have high mileage without failures.

In fact, I think the "evidence" would lean more toward the former case vs no OD concerns. High millage on a relativity new car that is reported commonly being driving in "sports" mode most of the time ,as evidence it holds up, to me, if not a a very compelling argument, when it is commonly suggested to avoid OD drive n "sports" mode and drive longer trips. Some have reported to do the same by their Honda dealer.
Now if the Civic was 25 years old with (high mileage) like my Camry V6 without engine failure, I would have high confidence to say the "evidence" leans that my 2017 CRV (oops, Camry) doesn't have any OD problem. LOL
What?
Civics often used in sports mode?
That's a bold statements without anything to back this claim up.
 

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What?
Civics often used in sports mode?
That's a bold statements without anything to back this claim up.
With or without sport mode, any privately owned passenger vehicle less than five years old with close to 200,000 miles is obviously being driven under conditions that help mitigate the oil dilution problem by giving the engine a chance to run for extended periods of time at full normal operating temperature. This in turn causes most or all of the excess fuel in the oil pan to evaporate, helping to limit the existence of the OD problem. If the problem doesn't exist, it can't cause premature wear on the engine.

It would be reasonable to conclude the turbo component is built to last from this information, but it's not evidence that people who have documented a significant amount of fuel in their oil and who drive significantly less than 40,000 miles per year have nothing to worry about long term when it comes to potential engine failure due to premature wear that results from an abnormally high amount of OD.

I'm curious why some people have suggested Castrol GTX over Mobil 1. I just had the first oil change on my 2019 LX performed at 2340 miles using a Mobil 1 M1-110A filter and Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 0W-20. It seems any full synthetic 0W-20 or 0W-30 should be fine for either CR-V engine as long as the oil is changed every 5000-7000 miles. The oil change interval and fuel blend seem like they would have a greater impact than the brand of full synthetic oil, at least as far as how much fuel gets into the oil pan. Whether a particular oil brand helps or hinders the engine from evaporating that excess fuel is a separate question, but I doubt there's going to be much difference from one brand to the next.
 

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From the start I was at 0.25” above the full mark. The highest I reached was 0.63”. I had TSB 18-114 performed. It stayed at the full mark for the next 1,000 miles. After that it climbed back to 0.25” until I have an oil change. This is the experience repeats it self each time. It stays at the full mark for several hundred miles after a change but eventually it grows back to being 0.25”.
My experience as well. Just my opinion, but this all seems as part of the design of the engine.

Though, it doesn't mean that I won't take extra measures to mitigate any premature damage, whether it's real or perceived.
Because I'm so smart. Smarter than all the Honda engineers. :p
 

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My experience as well. Just my opinion, but this all seems as part of the design of the engine.

Though, it doesn't mean that I won't take extra measures to mitigate any premature damage, whether it's real or perceived.
Because I'm so smart. Smarter than all the Honda engineers. :p
It's really not about being smarter or more of an expert on this particular engine or any general mechanical knowledge for that matter.

It's about knowing whose interest is best served by what Honda and their engineers are doing. That would be Honda's interest, not yours or mine. They use 0W-20 oil in a 2.4L naturally aspirated engine that has previously worked well with thicker oil because the EPA in the U.S. requires them to use it as part of their fuel efficiency testing guidelines. They tell us not to change the oil filter every time we change the oil, presumably for environmental reasons. They do a lot of stuff that's not in the best interest of the owners of Honda vehicles after the purchases have been finalized and the vehicles driven off dealer lots.

You want your engine to last a long time? Change your oil more frequently using the appropriate quantity of full synthetic oil and a mid-level or top quality filter with an anti-drainback valve built in. One dry start every 6000 miles that is caused by the filter change isn't a big deal in the long run. I plan to completely ignore the maintenance minder for the entire time I own my CR-V, and I plan for that to be well over a decade. All my planned maintenance is going to keep up with or exceed MM requirements and published guidelines in the owner's manual. I don't think that makes me smarter than Honda engineers. It only means that I have a greater interest in the longevity goals for my specific vehicle than they do.
 

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It's really not about being smarter or more of an expert on this particular engine or any general mechanical knowledge for that matter.

It's about knowing whose interest is best served by what Honda and their engineers are doing. That would be Honda's interest, not yours or mine. They use 0W-20 oil in a 2.4L naturally aspirated engine that has previously worked well with thicker oil because the EPA in the U.S. requires them to use it as part of their fuel efficiency testing guidelines. They tell us not to change the oil filter every time we change the oil, presumably for environmental reasons. They do a lot of stuff that's not in the best interest of the owners of Honda vehicles after the purchases have been finalized and the vehicles driven off dealer lots.

You want your engine to last a long time? Change your oil more frequently using the appropriate quantity of full synthetic oil and a mid-level or top quality filter with an anti-drainback valve built in. One dry start every 6000 miles that is caused by the filter change isn't a big deal in the long run. I plan to completely ignore the maintenance minder for the entire time I own my CR-V, and I plan for that to be well over a decade. All my planned maintenance is going to keep up with or exceed MM requirements and published guidelines in the owner's manual. I don't think that makes me smarter than Honda engineers. It only means that I have a greater interest in the longevity goals for my specific vehicle than they do.

Recently we had a short discussion (in this thread) here about Fe levels in tested oil after a change. One thing that came from that short cycle discussion here is that more frequent oil changes will actually result in higher Fe readings in oil that is professionally analyzed. Why? because the various compounds in fresh oil in fact have some solvent like activities that will marginally erode the Fe in your engine. Not anything proven harmful.. but something that could pop an abnormal readout in an oil analysis over time... thus replacing one owner concern with another.

My suggestion.... if you monitor your oil level weekly, and see no observable oil rise in your engine.. stick with the MM for oil change interval. IF you do see observable oil rise and are unable to manage it in change of driving habits, change in fuel, block heater in winter...etc... yeah... I would change the oil more frequently in that case. Just be aware of the chemical effects on your engine of doing so... because it's not just oil.. it also has a host of chemical additives.

The ongoing debate about changing the oil filter every oil change or every other oil change.... I happen to agree with the Honda recommendation here. Why? because oil filters ARE an environmental hazard... with hundreds of millions of them entering the environment every year. They are more difficult to deal with than the actual oil is. And with these clean and efficient engines now days.. it is not at all clear that the filter does need to be changed with every oil change. There is plenty of mythology and belief.. based on the "old days" of engines running very dirty in terms of engine oil and various motor contaminants.. but I think a bit if evolution of thinking is in order by owners in this regard.
 

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Motorcycle manufacturers have been recommending "every other oil change" filter changes for years.

Been doing that on my 2005 Yamaha that now has 120,000 miles since new.

It runs 5,000 rpms at 75 mph.

Still runs great and uses no oil.

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Changed oil every 3500 miles. I used RLI 5W30 LA HD with excellent results. Even with massive fuel dilution (greater than 10%) iron PPM was 8 on last oil analysis. When using Honda 0W20 had iron as high as 29 PPM (same number of miles).
 

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Had no heat unless temps were over 40F and even then heat wasn't very good. This issue started AFTER the TSB for fuel dilution. Honda America would take the TSB off. When I say no heat, I mean I was shivering with seat warmer on. Even if the engine got to 185F, there was still little heat. And, the engine temp would often be 155-160F. If I was driving around 30MPH the temp would drop into the 130s.

Fuel dilution or lack of heat is no longer a concern. I am done! I now have a 2019 Nissan Rogue that doesn't have the Eco Nightmare engine.Bottom line, Honda would not fix the fuel dilution or the engine temp issue.

Honda, what the hell happened to you? You used to be such a good company. When are you going to give a darn that long-term customers are leaving? It takes a long time to build brand loyalty. This was my 8th Honda. And, since you wouldn't help me, not only did you lose me as a customer you can expect that I will share my experience.

I will drop in in a few thousand miles. I expect that my MPG in Rogue is going to be better than what I had in the CR-V.

Ciao everyone.
 

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What?
Civics often used in sports mode?
That's a bold statements without anything to back this claim up.
Not really. It was not intended as statement of fact. You missed the contectual reference of the OP- ie. took it way too literal. This is a forum not a Phd thesis and with reference and footnotes- as some are seemly demanding now. :) Do I have too show pics and graphs to prove it also: Or go tell someone to research or proof it? Really??? This forum's attitude by some is getting tiresome about OD.

The OP said since Civic were driven hard (or something to that effect) and the engine hold-ups and was using that to make a point abut OD- or was at least trying to do it. I think the perhaps "bold" satement is Civics are driven hard- that is probably truly debatable. The BOLD statement woud def be "NOT" true if I boutht one over a CRV. But that, again, was not the reference point of my post.

I think it is a reasonable thing to say that "sport mode" is a proxy for hard-driven- in most car circles. Would you have preferred I say they drive Civics like a "like a bat out hell" or "like he stole it. I just like "sports mode" since my CRV does not have the other nomenclature. And I truly don't think anyone could ever prover he drove it like a bat out hell or like he stole unless I had a full police report. There is probably a Civic some where in the world that was like he stole it- becuase he did. For $500 an hour for research and $25 doc fess, I will gladkly go look for it. Heck, it might even, if lucky, stay they drove it in sprite fashion in a unsportmanship manner while avoiding the police in his Civic. One never knows. LOL

Sorry for all boorish post- like this one. But then prove it is boorish. LOL
 

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Had no heat unless temps were over 40F and even then heat wasn't very good. This issue started AFTER the TSB for fuel dilution. Honda America would take the TSB off. When I say no heat, I mean I was shivering with seat warmer on. Even if the engine got to 185F, there was still little heat. And, the engine temp would often be 155-160F. If I was driving around 30MPH the temp would drop into the 130s.

Fuel dilution or lack of heat is no longer a concern. I am done! I now have a 2019 Nissan Rogue that doesn't have the Eco Nightmare engine.Bottom line, Honda would not fix the fuel dilution or the engine temp issue.

Honda, what the hell happened to you? You used to be such a good company. When are you going to give a darn that long-term customers are leaving? It takes a long time to build brand loyalty. This was my 8th Honda. And, since you wouldn't help me, not only did you lose me as a customer you can expect that I will share my experience.

I will drop in in a few thousand miles. I expect that my MPG in Rogue is going to be better than what I had in the CR-V.

Ciao everyone.
Going from Honda to a Nissan almost all but invalidates your post unfortunately. R.i.p.
 
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