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Discussion Starter #1
ok....bad news.....was attempting to do a simple update, oil switch was leaking.

bought a new one, put teflon on it, threaded it in, tightened a bit....started car and oil was leaking badly out of there.....

shut off car, tightened a bit more, heard a 'crack' sound.......then, new switch would not tighten....then, a piece of the metal that has part of the threading broke off......

am i completely screwed and there is no fix?'

2002 CRV AWD 5 speed 165k miles.
 

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2005 and 2006 EX AWD
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is this the one on the block or spool valve vvt,must be the one for light that threads into the block I really dont think it can be repaired if you can get a close up picture 4 angles and upload them it may be fixable ,but most likely needs a new engine
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As what Dave J mentioned take a photo of it maybe it can be fixed. Let us know.
ok...i put jbweld on it for now, so hopefully it can be moved without losing a ton of oil.....i can take a pic of the piece that broke off for now, not sure if that is going to be helpful or not....but the part on the block has jbweld on it for a temp fix so i can hopefully move it,at least enough to get it on a trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
is this the one on the block or spool valve vvt,must be the one for light that threads into the block I really dont think it can be repaired if you can get a close up picture 4 angles and upload them it may be fixable ,but most likely needs a new engine
 

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Discussion Starter #9
attached are a couple of pictures on the block......hoping to find a way to weld it, without having to remove it from the engine......i just want to plug the hole up (i've heard jbweld too 'stiff' and with the hot and cold and pressure, will not stand up). I plan on getting an oil filter sandwich and putting the pressure switch on a port coming off of the sandwich oil press on block 1.jpg oil press on block 2.jpg oil press on block 3.jpg .
any ideas?
 

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im thinking grind it flat and repair it,put bearing grease on the tap for the insert to collect the shavings then disable the ignition and crank it for 2 seconds should get all the shavings out but make an oil mess , definitely a thread insert don't rely on the aluminum block for the threads for the plug or adapter, or maybe the same thread the sending unit is already would be better I think its 1/8 NPT and a bushing that is 1/4 pipe thread outer and 1/8 inner in the repaired hole with an insert ,I just started my crv up the other day after doing the timing chain chain and didn't put the vtc actuator back in, it got dark out so I missed it laying up by the wiper blade started it up and was like that sounds funny and went up front and oil was gushing out the vtc hole lost 3qts in 10 seconds man it made a mess ,https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-8-18-Taper-Thread-Repair/dp/B077J61H6G *** **https://www.amazon.com/Reducer-Bushing-Adapter-Fitting-Stainless/dp/B01MU4DQGV
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks...that is what i am leaning towards.....i need to make sure i have enough room (1/2"?) to thread a bolt into.

also, a way to keep metal shavings from going into the engine....maybe trying to drop oil pan and 'snaking' a wire or soemthing up through there, and then putting paper towels or something to prevent shaving from entering engine....just an idea, that is probaby the biggest hurdle - preventing shavings from going into engine.
 

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heres a link that they are saying that its 1/8 BSPT on the k20 that is different than NPT so not sure if that way will work https://www.k20a.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-114591.html here's a 1/8 bspt insert kit so it may be possible if thats the thread on the K24A1 https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/18-28-bsp-professional-helical-insert-repair-kit.html so the outside diameter of the insert is a special size of the tap size in the kit and the inner thread would be what you need just be sure of what size the sending switch is, I think the way the oil flows is from the pump to the filter on the outside holes and returns through the threaded part of the filter so maybe a blow gun with a rubber tip to blow metal out ,man I feel bad for you its a headache good luck,I had that happen on my 76 Firebird Pontiac 400 but the oil filter adapter was bolted to the block so I was able to get one off a junk engine,makes me wonder if the replacement sending switch was NTP and thats why it broke the block apparently after reading some info on NTP vs BPT they are close 1 is 17 thread per inch and the other is 18 or something like that they were referring to another thread than 1/8" but you understand they are a different pitch so they will thread in but will bind up and sometimes cause sealing problems
 

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Discussion Starter #13
heres a link that they are saying that its 1/8 BSPT on the k20 that is different than NPT so not sure if that way will work https://www.k20a.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-114591.html here's a 1/8 bspt insert kit so it may be possible if thats the thread on the KA24A1 https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/18-28-bsp-professional-helical-insert-repair-kit.html so the outside diameter of the insert is a special size of the tap size and the inner thread would be what you need just be sure of what size the sending switch is
Since I am just plugging the hole, I guess the exact thread is not going to be important - I just need a thread that the bolt I am adding to plug the hole will fit into.
As far as the 'oil filter sandwich' goes - they sell an adapter from 1/8bspt to fit the 'sandwich' port, which is 1/8 NPT.
so as long as the oil pressure sending unit is 1/8bspt, i can get the adapter and it will fit into the 'sandwich' on the oil filter, and I can still have my oil pressure switch functional without having it in the block.

it leaked quite a bit of oil in a minute or two, hopefully the block is not cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
this confirms the OE honda number is 37240-PTO-014 in the list on the link and it shows specs to be 1/8x28 BSPT

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/calorstat-by-vernet-8236778.html
thanks for that information....i will make sure that is the same part number i bought.....and important in buying the corrrect adapter size for my oil sandwich port.

this 'bolt' might work out , without having to thread anything.....

 

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I found this, this guy had the same thing happen on his Honda looks like that is the way to go with a sandwich and he tapped the hole with a 3/8 tap and put teflon tape on and threaded it in,wow it might work it looks like after you grind the broken part off there is a good amount of thread still so that might work too here' s the link https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=647056
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I found this, this guy had the same thing happen on his Honda looks like that is the way to go with a sandwich and he tapped the hole with a 3/8 tap and put teflon tape on and threaded it in,wow it might work it looks like after you grind the broken part off there is a good amount of thread still so that might work too here' s the link https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=647056
thanks.....nice to know what tap size he used. I plan on taking a video of the inside of the hole today, but it sounds like there is at least 1/2" of thread left in there, so this should work.

I am not sure how long the rubber would last on the plug, that is also a consideration for an easier approach without metal shavings.......
 

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probably best to leave it 1/8x28 BSPT if you can find a tap to clean the threads up and a 1/8-28 plug,from what people are saying if you put a 1/8x27 npt it will not seal and seep , amazon and ebay has both it looks like,after google searching it happens a lot on the k series engines found about 6 story's and only 1 replaced the block but he probably could have fixed it, I have 2 crv's and if they leak ,now I know be very careful I guess only 3 turns and stop and also use the liquid Teflon sealant PTFE not the tape might be safer then check for a leak the only problem is the liquid says 24 hours dry time ,in the last 15 years i have replaced about 20 oil pressure senders at work not on a Honda that I can recall ,was it an OEM switch or an after market,and I assume it was leaking out the diaphragm not the threads just wondering if that may be something to do with it like they use 1/8-27 maybe
 

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Discussion Starter #19
probably best to leave it 1/8x28 BSPT if you can find a tap to clean the threads up and a 1/8-28 plug,from what people are saying if you put a 1/8x27 npt it will not seal and seep , amazon and ebay has both it looks like,after google searching it happens a lot on the k series engines found about 6 story's and only 1 replaced the block but he probably could have fixed it, I have 2 crv's and if they leak ,now I know be very careful I guess only 3 turns and stop and also use the liquid Teflon sealant PTFE not the tape might be safer then check for a leak the only problem is the liquid says 24 hours dry time ,in the last 15 years i have replaced about 20 oil pressure senders at work not on a Honda that I can recall ,was it an OEM switch or an after market,and I assume it was leaking out the diaphragm not the threads just wondering if that may be something to do with it like they use 1/8-27 maybe
not exactly sure where the leak was coming from, i just saw a pool of oil under the car and turned it off, then saw a drop of oil on the new sensor - it was Honda OEM replacement sensor.
Considering how hard it was to remove the sensor that was there, it was either the wrong thread or it was cross threaded, as it was hard to get out.
I will be working on it this afternoon, trying the plug first at that will be a lot easier than tapping, if it doesn't hold, then tapping will be required.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
probably best to leave it 1/8x28 BSPT if you can find a tap to clean the threads up and a 1/8-28 plug,from what people are saying if you put a 1/8x27 npt it will not seal and seep , amazon and ebay has both it looks like,after google searching it happens a lot on the k series engines found about 6 story's and only 1 replaced the block but he probably could have fixed it, I have 2 crv's and if they leak ,now I know be very careful I guess only 3 turns and stop and also use the liquid Teflon sealant PTFE not the tape might be safer then check for a leak the only problem is the liquid says 24 hours dry time ,in the last 15 years i have replaced about 20 oil pressure senders at work not on a Honda that I can recall ,was it an OEM switch or an after market,and I assume it was leaking out the diaphragm not the threads just wondering if that may be something to do with it like they use 1/8-27 maybe
after a few mod's (to slightly reduce size of metal end, and smaller rubber sleeve), the plug is holding great for now, and the sandwich, bspt to npt adapter, new oem pressure sender, are working great, no leaks, no oil pressure lights....and i revved it up to about 5000 RPM.......the 'plug' is rated up to 185psi, so it should stay in there nicely.
no drilling, no metal shavings.
 
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