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Discussion Starter #1
My engine light is on and its running rough so I thought it's time to adjust the valves. It has 155k miles on it and I have adjusted the valves before. I adjusted them all, but the exhaust valve on the far left (Passenger side) will not adjust. No matter how much I loosen the the set screw I cannot get a feeler gauge in. The only way to get a feeler gauge in is to push down on the valve with a screwdriver but when I release the valve it just pinches the feeler gauge tight.
What does this mean when a valve won't adjust?

I just eyeballed the setting to the one next to it and put it back together and it's still running very rough. Any ideas about this? Maybe I will back the set screw a little more and try it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just to add...I got a OBD code tester and it says 2 and 4 are misfiring. Its idles really bad but not so noticeable while accelerating
 

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2001 Crv SE
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118 Posts
If you are out of thread then the valve seat has sunk. It is more than a valve job, they have to repair the head and put a new seat in, or they may have a thicker seat. You need to talk to a machinist at machine shop.

I think you can get slightly more adjustment by grinding adjuster on rocker or valve tip. I am not sure exactly. A machinist would know.
 

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2000 LX 5spd awd
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Like @JohnTaper says its a job a machine shop will have to address. But if thats the route you go find out if they can get hardened valve seats in stead. Much more reliable.

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies. I am about to do a compression test and I will report back with the results. Does anyone know the approximate cost to do a valve job or a head replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK just did a compression test:
#1 160
#2 160
#3 155
#4 80!
Number 4 is the one with the exhaust valve that won't adjust. I am going to back off the set screw all the way and test #4 again.
 

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2001 Crv SE
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I have seen people running into these issues with a "reman" head right out of the crate. Reman cylinder head is probably 500-700 range. Realistically you will probably be spending that at the machine shop as well. Possibly more or less. I just had a head resurfaced, pressure tested, and checked for cracks with dye and it was 200 bucks for that alone. Local machine can give you a better estimate, but you really won't know until they check it all out. I would say 500 at least, at machine shop for full valve job, new valve seats, and resurfacing if it needs it. Get your head gasket set beforehand and you can take the new valve seals that it comes with to the machine shop and have them throw em in if you're getting a whole valve job.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I might have bought myself a little time. I got #4 to finally gap at .004, I know it's supposed to be .008 but it seems to be running smoother. I'm taking it for a drive now to test it out.
 

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The earlier engines seemed to have more issue, but hopefully, it will be alright. On those engine years, I'd do a valve adjustment every 60,000 miles to prevent them from getting stuck or burnt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still running like crap. I got #4 up to 90 psi but that's not enough. My OBD analyzer says the #2 and 4 are misfiring. I don't know why # 2 is misfiring because it has 160 psi??? Frustrated :-(
 

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2000 LX 5spd awd
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Unfortunately it's definitely in your head. Start pricing a reman head, the cost of sending it to a machine shop, and look around for a distributor for jdm engines. Those will have less then 80k on them.

Are you able to do those kinds of jobs?

Also price out the needed gaskets those add up fast. For your head gasket only use oem or felpro.

It may end up cheaper to just do a jdm swap. You have some number crunching to do.

Sorry about the bad news. I hope you can get something worked out to get your V back on the road.

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Discussion Starter #14
Unfortunately it's definitely in your head. Start pricing a reman head, the cost of sending it to a machine shop, and look around for a distributor for jdm engines. Those will have less then 80k on them.

Are you able to do those kinds of jobs?

Also price out the needed gaskets those add up fast. For your head gasket only use oem or felpro.

It may end up cheaper to just do a jdm swap. You have some number crunching to do.

Sorry about the bad news. I hope you can get something worked out to get your V back on the road.

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thank I will look into this
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If I get a remanufactured head I would have a shop do the work, it's too much for me to do. If I replace the head should I replace the timing belt at that time? What about the water pump? It has 155,000 on it.
 

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2000 LX 5spd awd
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If I get a remanufactured head I would have a shop do the work, it's too much for me to do. If I replace the head should I replace the timing belt at that time? What about the water pump? It has 155,000 on it.
100% yes timing belts and water pump! Also do a T-stat

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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Is your head the original one from the factory, or has it already been repaired? I'm asking because a lot of our CR-Vs were recalled right out of the gate for this exact problem, and if your car is subject to that open recall still, Honda might repair your engine at no cost to you, even at your mileage.
 

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2000 LX 5spd awd
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Is your head the original one from the factory, or has it already been repaired? I'm asking because a lot of our CR-Vs were recalled right out of the gate for this exact problem, and if your car is subject to that open recall still, Honda might repair your engine at no cost to you, even at your mileage.
Was it a recall or service bulletin?



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@JMK909er you can direct messages me your vin and I can run it in Hondas vin inquiry. I work for honda and I can screen shot and send you our results from my phone.

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Ok maybe not right this second. Looks like the system may be down. Won't log me in. But I can run it as soon as possible.


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