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Discussion Starter #21
100% yes timing belts and water pump! Also do a T-stat

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What
Is your head the original one from the factory, or has it already been repaired? I'm asking because a lot of our CR-Vs were recalled right out of the gate for this exact problem, and if your car is subject to that open recall still, Honda might repair your engine at no cost to you, even at your mileage.
Thanks! I direct messaged you...
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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I don't see a message from you, but I don't work for Honda, ThisGuysCRV does. I hope you messaged him?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks to everyone chiming in on this thread with your great advice. I have basically decided it's time to get another car. Can anyone give me an idea if I sell it on Autotrader noting that it needs a valve job what can I expect to sell it for?
Zero, $500, $1000 maybe??? I have no idea. It would be a good car for someone that's a mechanic and likes to work on cars. The interior and exterior are in very good shape except for one small dent with 155K Miles on it. I know a dealer would probably give me next to nothing.
Thanks.
 

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2000 LX 5spd awd
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Id say list it at 750 -1000 but expect it may get less. I got mine with 2 bent valves at 125k for
$250 that was the owners offer i probably would have spent up to $1000 for it though. It clean besides the engine issues.

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2007 CRV
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I have basically decided it's time to get another car. Can anyone give me an idea if I sell it on Autotrader noting that it needs a valve job what can I expect to sell it for?
Zero, $500, $1000 maybe??? I have no idea. It would be a good car for someone that's a mechanic and likes to work on cars. The interior and exterior are in very good shape except for one small dent with 155K Miles on it. I know a dealer would probably give me next to nothing.
What year is the vehicle?
And what market are you in?
AWD or FWD?? Color? LX or EX?
I am in up state New York.
The market here would say it would sell around $1200 if in good condition
Around $800 if not is so good a condition
Takes a little time to find a buyer
If you just want to dump it then would go around $400 to $500.
That is recyclers wanting the catalytic converter
 

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Discussion Starter #27
What year is the vehicle?
And what market are you in?
AWD or FWD?? Color? LX or EX?
I am in up state New York.
The market here would say it would sell around $1200 if in good condition
Around $800 if not is so good a condition
Takes a little time to find a buyer
If you just want to dump it then would go around $400 to $500.
That is recyclers wanting the catalytic converter
It's a
1998 Honda CR-V EX AWD 4Dr SUV, silver, AWD interior and exterior is great. One small dent near the rear. Needs a valve job. VIN: JHLRD1864WC052218
 

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2016 Honda CR-V EX AWD in Mountain Air Metallic (Teal)
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My engine light is on and its running rough so I thought it's time to adjust the valves. It has 155k miles on it and I have adjusted the valves before. I adjusted them all, but the exhaust valve on the far left (Passenger side) will not adjust. No matter how much I loosen the the set screw I cannot get a feeler gauge in. The only way to get a feeler gauge in is to push down on the valve with a screwdriver but when I release the valve it just pinches the feeler gauge tight.
What does this mean when a valve won't adjust?

I just eyeballed the setting to the one next to it and put it back together and it's still running very rough. Any ideas about this? Maybe I will back the set screw a little more and try it again.
If you own a 1999 through 2001, Honda had a valve seat issue with these. There's a TSB (service bulletin) that Honda released to the Honda techs years ago. When they upped the hp on these engines from 127hp on the '97 & '98s, to 146hp in the '99 to '01s, it generated more heat. The alloy they used for the valve seats in the cylinder head would essentially mush down and recede into the head. I had an '01 that I bought new. It began to need its first valve adjustment at 55k miles. I called American Honda's "goodwill" department, (all automakers have that "hidden warranty" dept., but if you're up over 100k miles, forget that route.). I opened a case with them, and complained till I was blue in face that it states in the owner's manual to merely "check valve adjustment at 105k". They told me it was only a recommendation, and not a hard rule. They refused to pay for that valve adjustment, as well as 2 more. However, since I had proof that this was a known issue, the dealership that I dealt with at that time reopened the case for me, because they said the valves ran out of adjustment room, and that it would need a new cylinder head. However, I kept on those valve adjustments, because the people who were not in-the-know and didn't keep up with them, ended up with burnt exhaust valves, and the check engine light (MIL) coming on. So, if you're light came on and it was related to this issue, you most likely have the dreaded burnt exhaust valves already. You will need to replace the bad valves, and the cylinder head, plus all gaskets, bolts, etc...that go along with the job. My CR-V needed that done at 93k miles, so while they had the engine open, I also had them do the timing belt & water pump kit, since that would need replacing at 100k anyway. Good news is, I ended up driving that car to 296k miles with no further valve/cylinder head issues. But I did have them check & adjust the valves again at 200k to just because that's what was recommended. And they were only slightly out of spec. So, Honda did redesign those replacement heads. The bad news is, it's a very expensive job if you can't get Honda's goodwill warranty Dept to cover at least the labor cost like they did for me. But, they told me that if the vehicle had over 100k miles on it, they would not cover any of it. The price without warranty from a Honda dealer back in 2009 would've been about $3800 for that job! I paid about $840. Sorry for that bad news. 😔
 

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Discussion Starter #32
OK I was successful in grinding my rocker and getting enough adjustment so now all my valves are adjusted correctly but I still have problems. #4 the one that would not adjust before still has low compression 90 psi. Maybe the valve is damaged because of driving so much without it adjusted??? I don't know.

Also my OBD reader keeps telling me that #2 is misfiring, this one has good compression 160 psi I pulled off my rotor cap and it's pretty corroded on the rotor and towers so maybe this is the cause???

Don't know, I'm getting very frustrated.😒
 

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Right, so, evidently, as the other poster said, these particular model years had a problem with heat from the horsepower increase (which caused the valve seat issue -- similar to the new HEMI engines that used aluminum heads). It was a design problem -- which is weird because Honda makes the best high end racing engines. Perhaps they were experimenting with technology like they do today -- which takes longer to correct. So, these engines need new heads. You could do adjustments every 30k, but it's hard to say if that would even solve it since the problem was the design itself.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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Have you checked your car for that recall yet? If your car is recalled, Honda should fix it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Have you checked your car for that recall yet? If your car is recalled, Honda should fix it for you.
I checked it online with Honda and also the Honda employee in this chat checked it also and said there was nothing on it. Is there any other way to check it so far back? The car is 21 years old now.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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I checked it online with Honda and also the Honda employee in this chat checked it also and said there was nothing on it. Is there any other way to check it so far back? The car is 21 years old now.
That's the way to know. Looks like you're out of luck on that front, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Is it possible that the valve isn't sealing because of built up carbon because it has been out of adjustment for so long?
 

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2000 LX 5spd awd
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More than likely your valve is burnt. Driving around with misfire to long can cause this. Thats what I'm dealing with on my original engine and why I rebuild one to swap in. Also the guy in that video is not to smart at all. I would have definitely taken that head back. Once a valve seat sinks it not going to get any better. It will keep sinking. Its a good temp fix.

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Yup.. just a temp fix... it was a design flaw, but the heads can be overhauled or simply swapped.
 
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