P0301, P303, P0304, P0300, P1399 Misfire codes
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Well it was throwing misfire codes each time I checked it. Every time it said a different cylinder, The one code that remained constant was the P0300. Well anyway I have it done, seems to be running a lot better. I will have to give it a bit to see if the CEL comes back or not.
I set all the intake at 0.08mm and the exhaust at 0.20mm. I'm pretty sure the exhaust valves aren't burnt because they was able to be loosened WAY past the 0.20mm, I used the (Go/NoGo) method with the next size up feeler gauges. I loosened them as far as they would go and then tightened them a little at a time until it wouldn't go in, then loosened it until it went back in with a slight drag, then tested with the next size up and if it didn't go in it was good.
Here is a picture of the inside.
![Motor vehicle Vehicle Engineering Gas Auto part]()
Here is a video what it sounded like in May 2022. This was even before I started getting the CEL
Here is what it sounds like today after the valve job. I know I need to clean my engine and bay out.
I hope I got it solved now.
I set all the intake at 0.08mm and the exhaust at 0.20mm. I'm pretty sure the exhaust valves aren't burnt because they was able to be loosened WAY past the 0.20mm, I used the (Go/NoGo) method with the next size up feeler gauges. I loosened them as far as they would go and then tightened them a little at a time until it wouldn't go in, then loosened it until it went back in with a slight drag, then tested with the next size up and if it didn't go in it was good.
Here is a picture of the inside.
Here is a video what it sounded like in May 2022. This was even before I started getting the CEL
Here is what it sounds like today after the valve job. I know I need to clean my engine and bay out.
I hope I got it solved now.
Update: So it has been about two weeks now and no more CEL. So the problem was the valve clearance. So the problem began at about 10k miles after the mechanics adjusted them, it was just on and off as far as triggering the CEL. So either the mechanics didn't adjust them properly, or we should check the clearance more often than every 30k miles. Personally I am going to check the clearance every year when I do a tune up from now on.
I am not worried about the parts cannon that I fired at it in the beginning because my car was due for a tune up anyway. But as a word of advice, if you get a CEL for ANY misfire check your valve clearance no matter how many miles it's been since the last adjustment. Unless you know for a fact it's something else. I am just lucky that they didn't push in too far to ever be adjusted again or burn a valve. These valves are notorious for going out of adjustment quite easily. Thank you all for your input, if it wasn't for these forums I would have never had the courage to attempt to adjust these myself. Now that I know how It will be part of my routine maintenance from now on.
I am not worried about the parts cannon that I fired at it in the beginning because my car was due for a tune up anyway. But as a word of advice, if you get a CEL for ANY misfire check your valve clearance no matter how many miles it's been since the last adjustment. Unless you know for a fact it's something else. I am just lucky that they didn't push in too far to ever be adjusted again or burn a valve. These valves are notorious for going out of adjustment quite easily. Thank you all for your input, if it wasn't for these forums I would have never had the courage to attempt to adjust these myself. Now that I know how It will be part of my routine maintenance from now on.
Really happy that you've solved this issue G.W.!
I must be one lucky SOB, because I let my CR-V go more than 90k miles without a valve adjustment without issue. (Honestly I don't even know if the previous owner ever adjusted the valves, but it had been serviced at Honda regularly so I'm guessing it had been done at some point.) I finally took it in for an adjustment last week, and my mechanic confirmed that 3 valves were slightly tight, but he told me they definitely weren't tight enough to affect runnability or cause burnt valves.
It's interesting to me that certain CR-Vs seem to develop tight valves so quickly. I wonder what's being done differently, if anything.
I must be one lucky SOB, because I let my CR-V go more than 90k miles without a valve adjustment without issue. (Honestly I don't even know if the previous owner ever adjusted the valves, but it had been serviced at Honda regularly so I'm guessing it had been done at some point.) I finally took it in for an adjustment last week, and my mechanic confirmed that 3 valves were slightly tight, but he told me they definitely weren't tight enough to affect runnability or cause burnt valves.
It's interesting to me that certain CR-Vs seem to develop tight valves so quickly. I wonder what's being done differently, if anything.
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I used to own a 1969 VW van with the 1600cc air cooled engine. The valve covers were held on by a wire hook and could be removed without even using a screwdriver. Valve adjustment was a normal part of routine maintenance. The CRV valve lash adjustment is a hot topic considering that the recommendations are vastly different between North America and the rest of the world. It’s for sure best to learn how to do it and then make it a routine part of maintenance like changing the oil. I’m going to do mine in spring and this thread was a great. I learned the copper spark plugs I put in a few years back really don’t have much of a service life, and to do my valve lash on a yearly basis (which I haven’t been doing).
I hope that with checking the valve lash, doing the timing and re-installing my original fuel injectors after cleaning (removing the junkyard ones which are higher mileage lol) I can get back down to a reasonable fuel consumption rate.
I hope that with checking the valve lash, doing the timing and re-installing my original fuel injectors after cleaning (removing the junkyard ones which are higher mileage lol) I can get back down to a reasonable fuel consumption rate.
Yes the valves certainly surprised me, considering everywhere I looked said that a valve adjustment lasts anywhere from 30k - 60k miles. At the same time though the mechanics I took it to may not have adjusted them properly, but it did run better after they adjusted them so who knows.
I too am think about getting some newer fuel injectors. Right now my mileage is around 17mpg (Mix of city and Highway) and everything else is pretty much brand new or in good working order. I already tried cleaning them last summer, I don't think it helped much. Couldn't get an even spray out of most of them, two of them only squirted (Used a 9v battery to open them) So I was thinking of getting the remanufactured ones off Rock Auto. Because the cost of new ones are staggering. None of the junkyards around here have a 2001 CRV, just the earlier years and I'm sure their injectors are older than mine (only 152k miles on my CRV) and no shops that rebuild them close by. And I really don't trust the rebuilt ones off ebay because the prices are too good to be true lol. (Claiming they are rebuilt OEM etc)
If anyone knows where to get some reliable rebuilt injectors I would greatly appreciate it.
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What do you guys think about these? See at that price it really feels like a scam to me. But Fakespot approved the seller. And they seem to have a good seller history, but that stuff can be faked also. I wish reviews on the internet could be trusted, crap would be so much easier lol.
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1,244 Posts
I believe it was a recall wasn’t it?
the thing is, if it’s a defect in these engines how come they have the reputation of lasting over 300k km’s?
They are relatively low rpm engines, so the valve springs are pretty weak, which helps. I'm sure the valves float pretty bad above 5000 rpm, but most don't get driven like that. The majority of people i see driving old hondas are senior citizens who baby them, or teenagers who run the [Edited Out] out of them. I have no doubt they last though. Mine is at 340,000 miles.
Like anything else mass produced, I'm sure there were some put together differently, or with different materials. Most have been repaired or are no longer on the road.
Auto editing posts on this site... Pretty sad. You can no longer even type the word p i s s. It was a nice run. I'm not here to appease your sensitive advertisers. Take care, cut your hair
Thanks for sharing the info John! I've wondered what might actually cause the tightening -- you've clarified that for me.
The seats do not move. If they do they will completely ruin that port where the seats are pressed in. The seats are held by an interference fit in a counter bore, that restricts any movement. What causes the valve recession is the slow abrasion of the valve face when closing against the hardened seat. When reconditioning a head, very rarely are the seats removed, they are just either cut with a Serdi type machine or ground with grinding stones.
I'm a machinist so? And same goes for some valves and is why there is such thing as a "Valve Grinding Machine" the valve are just resurfaced and the stems are cut a small amount in some cases to account for that material loss, that would cause the lack of adjustment you mention.
What will cause valve seats coming loose is over heating.
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