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2004 CRV EX - Manual in Black
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks, I have a P0497 for a low purge flow, on my 2004 CRV with manual transmission, and with 220,000 miles on it. I've driven it for a while with the code, and decided I wanted to fix it rather than let the engine light burn out on it. I have tried some things in the past to try to repair it, but to no luck, the things I've done go as follows:

1: Taking the purge solenoid (engine bay) and cleaning it out
2: Replacing the solenoid entirely. (p1457 code disappeared, but didn't clear P0497 after clearing all codes)
3: checking for cracks or leaks along the tube to find nothing at all.

My intuition tells me that the issue is with the evap canister, or the valve near the gas tank. I would probably be safe if I just replaced both items, since it has so many miles on it. However I figured I would ask the community for their thoughts before needlessly replacing things that may not fix the issue.

(As a side note, my CRV has also thrown a circuit 1 bank 1 knock sensor code in the last few weeks. The engine doesn't knock even under load, so I'd assume the sensor, or wiring went bad. Although I have read on a couple places that something loose and vibrating could be causing the issue.)
 

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2007 CRV AWD
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Preferably have a scanner that has two way controls and can show data pids
Data pids for purge valve, evap pressure, vent valve, etc.
Verify the purge valve is operational (may need a vacuum pump with gauge)
Command it to turn off and on and watch vacuum pressure
Check tank pressure as you do evap self-test
Check wiring
 

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2004 CRV EX - Manual in Black
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Preferably have a scanner that has two way controls and can show data pids
Data pids for purge valve, evap pressure, vent valve, etc.
Verify the purge valve is operational (may need a vacuum pump with gauge)
Command it to turn off and on and watch vacuum pressure
Check tank pressure as you do evap self-test
Check wiring
Do you know which scanners can do an evap test such as moving separate actuators and the like?
 

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The official scan tool is the Honda i-HDS. It’s pricey to set up, needs a laptop, vehicle communication interface, only works on Honda, and you need to pay to access it each time.

if you’re going aftermarket and browsing Amazon, search for a “bidirectional scan tool”. Brands like Snap on, Autel, and Launch are the most well established, with brands like Thinktools and Foxwell are gaining popularity. Read carefully regarding software updates and subscription prices because they vary.

The unfortunate thing about buying a bidirectional scan tool for a 2004 vehicle is that the 2004 CRV doesn’t have that many computer modules to communicate and access. The more modern a vehicle is, the more computer modules, the more useful a bidirectional scan tool becomes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The official scan tool is the Honda i-HDS. It’s pricey to set up, needs a laptop, vehicle communication interface, only works on Honda, and you need to pay to access it each time.

if you’re going aftermarket and browsing Amazon, search for a “bidirectional scan tool”. Brands like Snap on, Autel, and Launch are the most well established, with brands like Thinktools and Foxwell are gaining popularity. Read carefully regarding software updates and subscription prices because they vary.

The unfortunate thing about buying a bidirectional scan tool for a 2004 vehicle is that the 2004 CRV doesn’t have that many computer modules to communicate and access. The more modern a vehicle is, the more computer modules, the more useful a bidirectional scan tool becomes.
It's truthfully seems like I'd just be better off buying a new canister off amazon or what not, as most the time it has the valve pre installed. Generally it's around $100. Worst case scenario it doesn't work and I get to play with a vaccuum pump and cigars in place of a smoke machine, along with kluging a solution using AA batteries and alligators clips, or the aforementioned pricey diganostics tools.

I do definitely remember a video about a shop using a tool to open and close valves on a CRV exactly like mine. Should I get around to it, I will update you all on how it went.
 

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Do you know which scanners can do an evap test such as moving separate actuators and the like?
No, I do not. Mostly because I can not afford such things.
I go low tech and try a smoke machine.
Watched youtube and made one at home.
I do have a vacuum pump I bought at Harbor Freight for doing brakes.

Purge valve is a normally closed valve
Putting 12 volts to it will open the valve
Vent valve is a normally open valve
Putting 12 volts to it will close the valve

I also bought a cheap code reader which has live data pids.
Haven't checked if it can see the tank pressure
 

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Howdy folks, I have a P0497 for a low purge flow, on my 2004 CRV with manual transmission, and with 220,000 miles on it. I've driven it for a while with the code, and decided I wanted to fix it rather than let the engine light burn out on it. I have tried some things in the past to try to repair it, but to no luck, the things I've done go as follows:

1: Taking the purge solenoid (engine bay) and cleaning it out
2: Replacing the solenoid entirely. (p1457 code disappeared, but didn't clear P0497 after clearing all codes)
3: checking for cracks or leaks along the tube to find nothing at all.

My intuition tells me that the issue is with the evap canister, or the valve near the gas tank. I would probably be safe if I just replaced both items, since it has so many miles on it. However I figured I would ask the community for their thoughts before needlessly replacing things that may not fix the issue.

(As a side note, my CRV has also thrown a circuit 1 bank 1 knock sensor code in the last few weeks. The engine doesn't knock even under load, so I'd assume the sensor, or wiring went bad. Although I have read on a couple places that something loose and vibrating could be causing the issue.)
This is what I get entering the code:
P0497 HONDA code possible causes Faulty
Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV)
Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) harness is open or shorted
Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) circuit poor electrical connection

Read more: P0497 Honda Code - Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow

Check your connections as well if you replaced the Solenoid that should've cleared the common issue and if not that means you have more deeper issue with either the cannister or wiring issues. As to the Sensor without a error code no one on here can tell what is going on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey folks, I replaced the purge valve and cannister. They were sold as one unit, and the code cleared up. I later then did the knock sensor and it turns out, it was just a bad sensor. So that fixed my issue.
 

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Those are the two most failed components during lifespan of V's. Next time I by a V's those two will be fixed first not later as if the previous owner didn't do that these will definitely need to be replaced. The reason being those are the two hardest to get to and one is even harder "Knock Sensor" cut my hand/arm just getting it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Those are the two most failed components during lifespan of V's. Next time I by a V's those two will be fixed first not later as if the previous owner didn't do that these will definitely need to be replaced. The reason being those are the two hardest to get to and one is even harder "Knock Sensor" cut my hand/arm just getting it out.
The canister itself wasn't too bad. Throwing the car on some ramps, and just taking enough of the shielding out made it bearable. and the knock sensor was a huge pain. I watched a video where some guy had wedged two screwdrivers in such a way where the clip was pressed in, and it worked like a charm.
 

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The canister itself wasn't too bad. Throwing the car on some ramps, and just taking enough of the shielding out made it bearable. and the knock sensor was a huge pain. I watched a video where some guy had wedged two screwdrivers in such a way where the clip was pressed in, and it worked like a charm.
That's what I did as well. I wasn't going to remove alot of stuff just to remove the Knock Sensor.
 

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It's truthfully seems like I'd just be better off buying a new canister off amazon or what not, as most the time it has the valve pre installed. Generally it's around $100. Worst case scenario it doesn't work and I get to play with a vaccuum pump and cigars in place of a smoke machine, along with kluging a solution using AA batteries and alligators clips, or the aforementioned pricey diganostics tools.

I do definitely remember a video about a shop using a tool to open and close valves on a CRV exactly like mine. Should I get around to it, I will update you all on how it went.
Great to hear your parts replacement worked out.

I get what you’re saying. Buying a higher end scan tool isn’t going to yield any financial benefits in the short term for a single repair. It’s definitely a long term purchase. At first it seems like the tool investment getting into fixing cars is cheap, with ratchets sockets and wrenches and such. But things can get expensive quick when it comes to diagnostic tools.

If you ever do consider a bidirectional tool for cheaper, browse Amazon for the Foxwell NT 510 Honda scanner ($170?) and the ThinkTools ThinkDiag dongle scanner ($100?). I think these are the cheapest bidirectional tools on the market. Both advertise bidirectional control, but they have put some limitations on the functionality given the lower price. FWIW, I don’t have either. The Foxwell has gotten some good reviews over at the element owners forum, but they limit the use to one car manufacturer. The ThinkDiag has recently gotten a lot of YouTube reviews. It seems more of an “a la carte” scan tool as you buy extra functions for a price.

as for kludging around with batteries and alligator clips, consider something called the Power Probe. It’s like a combination test light plus power source plus ground source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So unfortunately both codes have come back, I am unsure why, as the valve and canister has been replaced, and the knock sensor has been replaced as well. Both came back just today, I might suspect something with the wiring as both came back during a car wash, which is a bit odd. I am wondering if in your experience if it was something to do with wiring or a bad pressure sensor.

I should also note, the battery light is on, and the car seems to be acting a little weird when it's cold. I did have an alternator fiasco a while back, and I think this one might also not be good, and could be causing issues as well.

Any thoughts? Im at a bit of a loss, and can't really buy a brand new alternator due to some financial constraints for the next while. However I do have until May of next year to get things sorted for emissions
 

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Car wash would tell me something is leaking water where it shouldn't be at. Check your Main House and all your other fuse location for water infiltration spots. Did you replace the ND bridge in the Main Fuse location? That can also cause a alternator or battery to go back bad as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Car wash would tell me something is leaking water where it shouldn't be at. Check your Main House and all your other fuse location for water infiltration spots. Did you replace the ND bridge in the Main Fuse location? That can also cause a alternator or battery to go back bad as well.
Nd bridge? I'm not sure what that is. I should also note, that these issues seem to come back when it's cold ie 32 degrees or less.
 
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