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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'm starting to see signs of my second new battery biting the dust in the past six months. In threads about the newer model CRV's, an AC clutch relay is culprit, and replacing the OEM part with an alternate seems to fix the problem for good.

Do the second gen CRV's have the same AC Clutch relay issue? The fuse box (and relays) don't match up to the third gen models:




(diagram under the fusebox lid)


 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I pulled all of the relays (pictured above), every single one looks brand spanking new. Not a hint of corrosion on connectors - shiny copper. Previous owner had the local Honda dealer try to fix this, and they replaced starter, alternator, battery, battery cables, and a good portion of the wiring harness. It's likely they replaced these relays as well - the newness of the parts suggests that.

I've searched quite a bit and cannot seem to locate a thread dealing with parasitic drain on these earlier CR-V's. The thread I remember seeing seemed to mention a module somewhere that was known to go bad, and when it did, it would cause the battery drainage issue. Folks in the thread mentioned the module costs several hundred dollars new.

Anyone remember that thread or happen to have it bookmarked? Nearly everything I find on parastiic drain deals with the newer generation CRVs which have a different fuse box and electrical system.
 

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No drain here (2006 CR-V).

Tell us what the drain is...



The usual diagnostic technique is to measure the current drain with a volt-ohm-meter, then pull fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that draws the excess power.

If none of the fuses stop the draw, it's usually in the alternator. Might be different for a car like the Gen2 that has the voltage regulator in the ECU, though.

++++

PS: What "signs" of impending failure are you experiencing? Slow cranking could be due to loose battery terminals, I've needed to use terminal shims on my last three batteries, otherwise they would be loose. I've also had 6 month old batteries fail...(but not on the V)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Termainals, cables, alternator, starter, and most of the engine wiring harness were replaced less than 6 months ago at a local Honda dealer. The battery is brand new and the posts are secure. The PO had issues with batteries failing and I think that added to why she traded the car in.

Is the 2004 considered "gen 2" or "gen 3"?
 

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2002 - 2004 = Generation 2.

2005 - 2006 = Generation 2.5.

Waiting for the results of testing, pulling one fuse at a time, to monitor the circuits.



PS: any upgraded/wired-in electrical components on the car? (Trailer hitch, alarm, radio)

ALSO: If the car was ever in an accident a wire could be just chafing on something else. Those pesky electrons always try to seek out the battery negative! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Car is bone stock, no trailer hitch, alarm or aftermarket radio. It hasn't been in crash that I know about.
 

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The other Topic that you responded to mentioned the door causing a failure to enter Sleep Mode.

Do your interior lights go on when the doors open (and fade out with a minute or two after closing)?

This observation includes the tailgate light or door ajar icon on the dash.

A door switch could be damaged (commonly, a seat belt buckle gets closed into the door and damages the switch INSIDE the rubber protector)

Gen2 tailgate switches are notorious for 'thinking' the the back door is open.


Just trying to help!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll check the interior light issue later today - in the office and my car is a long walk away. Will post back later.

Can you link to the best how-to article or video on checking for parasitic drain?
 

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Eureka!

Check the switches (start with drivers door) and check the dome lamp as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Eureka!

Check the switches (start with drivers door) and check the dome lamp as well.
The driver's side door switch appeared and felt fine.
I rocked the overhead lighit switch back and forth, nothing there.
Next I removed the overhead light cover and pulled the bulb. It looked fine.
Reinstalled bulb and it immediately turned on (?).
Confirmed that opening the door also turned the overhead bulb on (it faded to off once the door was closed).


Not sure what this shows if anything, but thought I'd share my findings.
 

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Does the interior light now go on with any open door, then (when closed again) fade to black? That's how it's supposed to work.

Could have a high resistance in the socket, dimly remember a Topic about this on Gen2s.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does the interior light now go on with any open door, then (when closed again) fade to black? That's how it's supposed to work.

Could have a high resistance in the socket, dimly remember a Topic about this on Gen2s.
Yes the light does go on with any door, and it fades off. I'll try to google around about the resistance issue later today got to get back to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also see if the electrical drain has gone away.
Just did the parasitic drain test for the first time. I used EricTheCarGuy's video here for a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0


What I found is with doors closed, keys out and everything off, there is a drain of 0.30 amps. Every minute or so this will drop down to 0.01 amps, then, bounces back to 0.30 amps. I didn't try isolating anything by pulling fuses. Is 0.30 amps anything to worry about?
 
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