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Had to leave it half closed as it was on the street, will try it at work with bonnet open, does anyone know how long I should leave it for? Does 0.26 amps sound reasonable before it goes to sleep?
 

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Had to leave it half closed as it was on the street, will try it at work with bonnet open, does anyone know how long I should leave it for? Does 0.26 amps sound reasonable before it goes to sleep?
They normally fully power down into low power state within 5 minutes. It may vary though by generation of CRV... but after 10 minutes.. the CRV really should be fully powered down.
 

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Hi, Did you ever solved this problem. I have a 2007 model CRV and have a similar problem. Battery draws parasitically at 0.5A. Upon drawing the fuses out from the hood, I figured out that if we take a 10A fuse out that controls the Navigation/Radio and Alarm then the draw goes immediately down to 0.02A. Upon further checking I have removed the Navigation console out from the car but it did not help. I have also removed the fuse number 25 under the dashboard that controls the alarm system but it did not help either. The car draws current continuously and emplties the battery in 1 day. Does this fuse control other things as well? which I should check.
Picture is attached.
Regards, Mohsin
I have just detected the same problem after 3 weeks re-charging batterries... I have removed the backup fuse after detecting a permanent draw of 182ma! Removing for a couple of days to prove my case is fine, but wife is not happy with manual door locking and no sterio.

Before Honda charge me £££ for changing every component on the car - did anyone have a solution?
 

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I have just detected the same problem after 3 weeks re-charging batterries... I have removed the backup fuse after detecting a permanent draw of 182ma! Removing for a couple of days to prove my case is fine, but wife is not happy with manual door locking and no sterio.

Before Honda charge me £££ for changing every component on the car - did anyone have a solution?
I got it, the HFT was playing up! I removed the connector (behind kick panel) on right hand side of centre console - by drivers left leg (UK Model) The draw across 'backup' fuse disappeared, now the amp draw measured at the battery is .5a but drops to .02a (20Ma) when the engine management system goes to sleep - previously it was only dropping to .2 (200Ma) on sleep.
 

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I have this 2010 CRV EX with a parasitic draw. The battery will be dead in 2 days if the vehicle is not used. Battery is not the issue!

I tracked the parasitic draw to the "back up" fuse. When I remove this fuse, the draw disappears. If I remove the fuse I lose remote door locks, radio amongst other electronics.

I have taken out the fuses one by one and I cannot find any other source to the draw.

The only aftermarket item on this vehicle is a Astro Start remote starting system.

I don't have a dealer nearby to assist. Anyone have any pointers on this model CRV? I understand some door switches could be faulty, but how to test them? If a door switch is bad would it leave the interior light on?

Any advice would be appreciated if you have seen this issue. Thanks
I bought my 2012 Honda CRV brand new. The first six years it had five batteries. I finally read a thread on this website where a guy said he replaced his AC relay. I insisted on my mechanic pulling in replacing it with a brand new one 2 1/2 years ago and I’ve not had a dead battery or had to be jumpstarted or any battery issue sense.
 

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I have this 2010 CRV EX with a parasitic draw. The battery will be dead in 2 days if the vehicle is not used. Battery is not the issue!

I tracked the parasitic draw to the "back up" fuse. When I remove this fuse, the draw disappears. If I remove the fuse I lose remote door locks, radio amongst other electronics.

I have taken out the fuses one by one and I cannot find any other source to the draw.

The only aftermarket item on this vehicle is a Astro Start remote starting system.

I don't have a dealer nearby to assist. Anyone have any pointers on this model CRV? I understand some door switches could be faulty, but how to test them? If a door switch is bad would it leave the interior light on?

Any advice would be appreciated if you have seen this issue. Thanks
 

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I am not sure you have a right connector, the plug is a grey one, but it plugs directly into the HF module - it's in a right bastard of a spot to reach! A previous respondent on another thread, posted a photo of the location. On a UK model, it is behind a kick panel - below and to the right of the gearstick! Remove the panel you will see a white plug - but it is not that one... then tucked up higher to one side is a grey connector plug attached to the module. I used a small screwdriver to wrassle it out!

I believe the US model uses the same location for the HF module.

The draw across backup fuse dropped away immediately!
 
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