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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know where the injector/PGM-FI relay location is on a 2008 CR-V 2.2 CDTI as I’m having a P0602 error code and need to troubleshoot the

ive checked both fuse boxes but can’t see them.



137563

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
If anyone else has the Same issue, I Just discovered this.... Fuse box diagram Honda CR-V

this looks like my internal fuse box with R3 as the starter relay which should be the initial stage to activate the injectors, glow plug and PGM-FI
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but I still need tor locate the under the hood relays For the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I've already read that.

The issue I have is intermittent and only when I turn the ignition key the car cranks, does not start, the DTC appears and then the following dash lights fail to light up: PGM-FI, Glow Plug, Oil, Battery, ABS, Fuel Filter. It's possible it's just a faulty PGM-FI relay as its intermittent on starting only and is never an issue whilst driving. Ive only now discovered that the R2 and R3 (in my previous post) is for the PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (Fuel Pump) and Starting Cut Relay so I need to check those as i've read that some previous CRV and civic owners have found the PGM-FI relay has suffered with dry solder joints that cause the issue for them.

My Battery is currently 12.1v in the morning, so I'm ordering a new battery to rule out low power affecting the PCM/ECU.

My initial query in my first post was that is the under hood fuse/relay box is not the normal one seen in all the manuals and on the web for my model and year, whereas all documentation shows this type (see pic below).

As you can see the relays are all there, whereas my CDTI only has 2 relays, hence my initial post.

137572
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so I’ve checked the internal fuse box and there’s only 1 relay... that’s for the powered windows.
does anyone know why there’s no relays for the fuel pump, injectors, PGM-FI? this is so weird. does the ECU have everything inside it?
 

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im having the same issue for the last few months. The mechanic has had it for four months, and has taken it to 2 Honda garages. The one suggested to replace the PCM, and that didnt work. fortunately we didn't have to pay for that. They have found some wiring that was faulty and corrected it. But there is still the same issue P0602 Control Module Programming Error. The modules have been flashed to updated software and the ECU has been refurbished. thankfully we are in South Africa, so the mechanic rates are less money. But im interested if you have found a solution yet. I read one entry about the top dead centre sensor. at this point i would like to get this resolved!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yikes! You’ve diagnosed it further than me! honda recommend re-flashing the pcm then replacing it if it doesn’t fix it. But at £1500 for the pcm, i‘m leaving that till last. I’d rather change the car before changing the pcm. lol.

Weather has been awful in the UK with floods, so I’ve not had the chance to tackle it. Likewise the swaybar has failed so I’m in the middle of replacing it ... the lower bolt is seized like a *** so it’s currently awaiting the plusgas to absorb before I try again (funnily the car is immaculate and is mechanically sweet, except for these 2 issues). As It’s intermittent, it’s difficult to find the cause. it failed to start 8 times in a row today, other days it’s once a day. I’ve tried disconnecting some sensors (coolant temp, etc) just in case it’s linked to the pre-start checks. But nonetheless the tests re-created the issue.

do you have the same issues with starting (and only half the lights showing)?
 

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yes exactly the same. the PGM-FI and glow plug lights wouldn't come on when it gave the error code and wouldnt start. But then if the lights came on, there was no error code and it started and ran no problem. It started last year with once in a while. But last November i would turn it on and off up to 50 times. I feel the same about the car, other than this, its quite good. but right now its a 2 ton paper weight. :poop:
 

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Hi,

I have same issue, I found this

Brilliant...

Top relay goes bad you get "low rail pressure warning" no signal to fuel pump - my problem
Bottom relay goes bad the engine warning light flickers and injectors get no signal

I have a quote from Honda £200 + Vat - BUT, CAN I FIND THE PIGGING THING?

2007 CRV RHD 2.2 - anyone got a helpful photo?
 

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i was told that the petrol version shown in the video has an independent PGM-FI relay. In the 2.2 diesel version we have, its built in the PCM. im not sure what the 200 quid is actually doing, but its cheaper than what most have posted.
 

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i was told that the petrol version shown in the video has an independent PGM-FI relay. In the 2.2 diesel version we have, its built in the PCM. im not sure what the 200 quid is actually doing, but its cheaper than what most have posted.
Just to share with all, I succumbed to the specialist Honda garage and fully prepared to be fleeced ;-)

More detail the recovery guy that came out (The AA) was bloody good. Given the 'low fuel pressure' error He measured the pressure on the common rail to be 10 bar (should be 1200 +/-) he got the air box off and got the beast to fire using Quick Start (inside 30 mins) he was hoping for a magical result, but no! So there is diesel to the primer and up to the pump! So it is the mechanical pump, or a sensor on the end of the fuel rail.

Checking into the garage this AM, the parts guy informed me the fuel regulator/sensor does not simply unscrew, it is built into the fuel rail, the whole unit is £1K + . To give them their due, they actually told me 'pattern parts' are available as this has become a common thing - not sure if it is only 2007 model.

The part I was originally quoted for is a relay for the injector circuit, but I still do not know where it goes. I will report the final outcome.
 

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I saw this on somebody else's thread,that if you google,Honda crv workshop manual,it will come up with a genuine Honda website where you can get what looks like a 2.4 owners manual online for free,it has some fairly
decent pictures of fuseboards,wiring diagrams of under glovebox and under bonnet fuse box for an 09,you can
also print all of this,even a small amout fault finding.As you have pictures of the real thing,you will be able to see if the fuse and relay layout is the same or something like.good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@Meencho77 My car is taking about 20 attempts before the starting lights come on. Ive managed to grab all the relays and remove them to see if I can replicate the issue. none were related. So the pgmfi relay must be in the ECM as you say. ive located the ECM on the sidewall above the passenger footwell. but i have to remove the cabin fan motor and cabin Filter housing to gain access. Not sure how easy it will be to remove those components without taking the dash apart. But one I gain access, I’ll open it up and check the condition of the solder joints. And if necessary have an auto electrician test the ECU.
 

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I think that I have been talking to b-jay05 Mk3 crv How to remove ECU about this some of which may apply to you.If you look on ebay with the numbers given to b-jay05 you will be able to check if yours is the same and if you can remove the lid by moving the 3 connection sockets and maybe change the relay.Don't forget to disconnect
the battery. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Fixed it with a refurbished ECU (with the data copied from the old ECU) and it only cost £180 which was much cheaper than I’d expected.

The issue had become so bad, I was sat in the car for 15 mins waiting for it to start, the last month its been impossible to start the car, the ignition lights refused to come on.

Even though I was looking for the or pgmfi relay, the symptoms were also showing that the ECU was not talking to the OBD tool. So when you search for problems with the CR-V‘s ECU, one of the common complaints is the ECU not communicating. I spoke to a few ECU specialists and they also confirmed that a cloned ECU should fix the starting issue.

I eventually found the location of the ECU... it was on the sidewall of the passenger footwell. First you need to remove glovebox, blower motor harnesses and the whole air blower housing unit (one nut holding it onto the bulkhead was a nightmare to gain access to). At one point you have to cut part of the lower dash in order to get the blower motor out, but don’t worry, it screws back in and it’s under the glovebox door.

instructions are on post #8 on here Blower / air con / fan high pitch noise

Then the ECU was easily accessible and easy to remove.

I sent the ECU off to these guys in Plymouth: Cartech Electronics Ltd they cloned the ECU to a refurb one and and sent it back, all for £180. ...it arrived 30 mins ago, so I plugged in the ECU and the car starts normally once again. all ignition lights are showing ,it’s started 10 times in a row and I’m over the moon with it!
 
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