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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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My biggest problem with the fill-with-a-tube procedure is,

there is always some fluid in the tube because it stays in the low areas....then when the tube is withdrawn it spills out (can't hold it in as I pull the tube past the wheel)

On one DPF change I tried a cheap pump...too cheap I guess because the tubes fell out of THAT and made a mess too!

Atwell "Pig-Pen" Haines ;)
'06V
NJ
 

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Cat Litter

Like changing oil, messes (and bloody knuckles) are part of the bonding process. When I filled mine, I wisely removed the full drain pan to avoid knocking it over. Dame Black Pearl was doing the pouring, but alas she was shooting for the mystical 1/3 quart. Somewhere before 10 oz it started running out. Its amazing how big of a splotch an ounce of oil makes.
 

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Invaluable Photo Essay

Fantastic Information Black Pearl.

Your Step-by-Step Photo Essays are the best on the web! :cool:
 

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Do the maintenance minders reset themselves? I have to reset my 04 Odyssey and wonder what I have to do when it comes time to do my oil in my 08.

Sean
 

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Different Tool

Last night I changed the dual pump fluid on our '07 V and found it to be pretty straight forward thanks to the posts in here. I never had a noise from the rear diff, but an older, wiser person once told me that "oil is cheap". So at 28,982, out with the old and in with the new. One thing I tried that seemed to work well is the fill device I had laying around for whatever reason. I think it was purchased at autozone for a couple of bucks like 3 years ago, but it worked well. You can screw it onto the plastic container of fluid and have it turned off so no fluid will come out until the yellow end is turned 1/4 turn. There is enough room to have the plastic container lay fairly flat, but still being above the level of the fill hole. Once set, a 1/4 turn and let it flow. One other thing I did was pour the .3 quart in the empty container from the full one and it just barely started to run out the fill hole when done. Keep the drain pan under your work area and not a drop spilled.
 

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Knowledgeable member not me?

Black Pearl you do a great video like this and you still say you are not one of the more knowledgeable members and you wonder why I disagree.
Fantastic job.
Jim in To
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited by Moderator)
Welcome To The Club!

Last night I changed the dual pump fluid on our '07 V and found it to be pretty straight forward thanks to the posts in here. I never had a noise from the rear diff, but an older, wiser person once told me that "oil is cheap". So at 28,982, out with the old and in with the new. One thing I tried that seemed to work well is the fill device I had laying around for whatever reason. I think it was purchased at autozone for a couple of bucks like 3 years ago, but it worked well. You can screw it onto the plastic container of fluid and have it turned off so no fluid will come out until the yellow end is turned 1/4 turn. There is enough room to have the plastic container lay fairly flat, but still being above the level of the fill hole. Once set, a 1/4 turn and let it flow. One other thing I did was pour the .3 quart in the empty container from the full one and it just barely started to run out the fill hole when done. Keep the drain pan under your work area and not a drop spilled.
Welcome to the club, and clever filling device. I bought something that somewhat resembled the yellow part of your contraption (without the hose) but using an empty oil container I was afraid it wouldn't work. I am going to keep an eye out for your contraption. Any idea where you bought it?

I am a little concerned with your mileage at your change. With an 07 your MMI should have given you a 6 subcode (for changing the rear differential fluid) somewhere between 13,000 miles and 20,000 miles. If you are not using the MMI, you should try to change the fluid every 15 to 20 K. You are exactly correct, fluid is cheap. Honda has had a good bit of trouble with the rear differentials and fluid changes are important. So keep after that rear differential fluid a little more often than 28K.

Welcome to the club and again neat oil snout!


tcturner, thanks for the kind comments, but writing a procedure for changing rear diff fluid doesn't take a whole lot of knowledge. A good camera is helpful. When you see me writing a procedure for rebuilding a transmission, then I'll agree with you. But thanks for the compliment.
 

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Rear Diff

BP,
Thanks for the welcome.... I've been reading these posts for some time now and just chimed in when I thought I had some constructive input. As far as the fill device, I'm sure it was autozone or advance where I got it. I seem to remember doing a diff oil change on my old chevy pick-up awhile ago and needing it for the 90 wt oil. As far as the MMI, I'm a 7,500 mile change guy. I've had percentages ranging from 50% to 60% at 7,500 intervals. I reset the MMI at each oil change and try and keep an eye and ear on everything else. We have had our 07 for 15 months now and so with our VIN being out of the "suspect" range for the Honda TSB I figured 30k was a good start. Besides breaking off the damn rear window squirter when it was snowing out and the somewhat less than average factory tires, we are pleased with the V. Plus it's fun to drive in the snow before the plows get out....(don't tell the wife).
 

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Checking Codes In The MMI

One problem with changing oil earlier than the MMI calls for is missing the subcodes being called up. If the oil life never gets down to 15%, the subcodes will not be displayed. As I mentioned above, I think most members are getting the 6 subcode for changing the rear differential fluid between 13000 and 20000 on the second oil change. With the difficulties that Honda has experienced with the rear differentials, you want to keep a good record that you have changed the fluid in the recommended intervals. Even if you have trouble after your warranty expires, you may be eligible for good will consideration if you have changed the rear differential fluid by the MMI's recommendations.

To advoid missing the codes, you can check the codes that are coming up on the next cycle. Check out post #2 on this thread:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1886
 

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I did my 2005 CRV and the rear diff is different with the fill above the drain plug. I had to remove a protection shield from the fuel evap cannister to get better access to the plugs - after that it was simple. I used a sqeegee bottle with a 8" long 1/4" Id hose shoved onto the pointed tip and put it in this way - had to fill the bottle about 4 or 5 times to get all the oil in. I had enough hose so I could tip the bottom of the bottle up get almost all the oil out each filling. Just fill until the oil starts to run out fill hole. The factory manual says, for mine, the oil level should be up to the bottom of the fill hole with the vehicle level.
 

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Ok, so I am 16K on my 07 CR-V. I took it in to get an oil change and they tell me I need a rear differential change. They charge like $100 and like $25 for tire rotation. I am in no way handy enough to do the differential change or want to do the tire rotation. Is it worth paying the dealer? Can I find cheaper elsewhere?
 

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Changing Rear Differential Fluids

If you do have a third party change your rear differential fluid be absolutely sure that they will use only Honda Brand Dual Pump Fluid II. If they use some other fluid it will damage your rear differential and Honda will not honor a warranty repair. Extreme caution is called for. This situation occured to another member.

Read the instructions at the beginning of this thread, changing the rear differential fluid is not difficult, and the instructions are very detailed with photos. Good luck.
 

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Is that 5/8 OD (outer diameter) on the hose or ID (inner diameter). I'm a big fan of just buying exactly what somebody who knows what they are doing tells me to buy! :)

--edit
Clearly stated in step 11 it's the OD.
 

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Outside Diameter

Is that 5/8 OD (outer diameter) on the hose or ID (inner diameter). I'm a big fan of just buying exactly what somebody who knows what they are doing tells me to buy! :)

--edit
Clearly stated in step 11 it's the OD.
I corrected step E under Required Tools. Thanks for pointing out my omission. One shouldn't wait till step 11 to find out the size hose. I appreciate you helping to make the instructions better!

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks Black Pearl and Sunny B!!! I changed my oil and rear differential fluid this afternoon. It was a breeze with the fluid container spout tube thingy that Sunny B mentioned. I didn't drop or spill any of the fluid. I purchased it at Auto-Zone. Again, thanks guys.
 

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Fluid Pump

I was in Harbor Freight a few days ago and they had a fluid pump and hoses for 5 bucks so I bought one. I thought this would be an easy and clean solution for getting the fluid in the rear differential. It is a manual pump but it has a good size dimension to it so it would not take long to pump a quart in no time at all. I am still a long way off from changing the fluid but when I do I will report how it works.
 

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Check Your Pump For Assembly Debris

Mentioning Harbor Freight* fired some rarely used neurons in my head. I bought a cheap plastic pump for something or other at work and we found it to be loaded with plastic chips and shavings. Actually I bought the pump at Grainger or McMaster Carr but some of my dealings at Harbor Freight have not inspired a great confidence in quality. If you can dismantle the pump, thoroughly check it out for assembly debris. If the pump can't be dismantled, I would recommend thoroughly flushing it prior to use.

Ha! But flushing it with what? NOT WATER! If you use anything other than Dual Pump fluid, you risk contaminating your rear differential with the remanent flushing oil. Perhaps we have just found a use for that remaining .7 quart left over from the last change!

That applies to hose and plastic snouty things as well.

*EDIT: The home of Pittsburgh Professional Tools which are made in China. I looked at a map of China and did not see a Pittsburgh anywhere. One thing that really POs xenophobes (such as myself) from Pittsburgh is the use of our fair city's (ha!) name on foreign made tools. If they must sully The Steel City name, could they at least leave the H of the end? (Black Pearl's fingers quiver over the keyboard in an xenophobic rage of the hijacking of his city's name by Communist Capitalist Industrialists half way around the world on a forum devoted to a Japanese car. Ah yes Black Pearl, you are a man of principle!) Alas a bit of thread drift!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Name_of_Pittsburgh

The original Black & Gold (Image credit Wikipedia)
 

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Changed fluid in my new used 2006 V today. 59000 Kilo. on the meter. It was never changed since new! I still could not make it moan, but I just had to change before it moaned! The filler and drain plugs are both on the drivers side on the 2006 model. You also have to remove a skid plate from I think, a fuel pump? , in order to get the 3/8's drive onto the plugs for removal. The oil was a darker red than the new pump 11 oil. Thanks to this site it made my work much less of a job.:D Hal
 
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