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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the test subject with measurements. Planning to port and polish since there is not a lot of aftermarket support. So I made my own. I have experience doing i4/v6 accord runners so these should be fairly easy. Only thing that is annoying is pulling off the injectors and making sure that the nozzles doesn't get stuck or fuel spill all over the place.






did a test port looks like I will need more aggressive bits
[/URL[URL=http://s101.photobucket.com/user/thisaznboi88/media/CRV%20Build%20thread/2DDB3F2C-C487-4EBF-BEEA-AE61405F85BB_zpsdlkxququ.jpg.html]
 

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I may not be following you right. But are the runners not all different sizes to equalize flow rates? So all the cylinders get similar CFMs .

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
the last 2 runners on the end are different size and also length from the 2 in the middle. Casting imperfection give you that 0.X mm difference. I

I am smoothing out the runners to decrease turbulence and imperfections, and also matching the gasket. As you can see there is about a 2-3mm of black residue where the gasket is much larger than the runners opening. I am sure I can port the 43.x mm to 45mm. I take measurement so I have a baseline to go off of. Don't want to just port and polish blindly. In addition, I am only polishing it to 120 grid and leaving wavey look on the metal. You never ever want to polish to a mirror finish on the intake side. The exhaust side can be as smooth as you want.

Example of what I had did in the past





Here a dyno from a 9th gen civic showing gains throughout the rev range with just the runners port and polished.




I also got an 06 TSX runner, IM, and TB. Going to see if I can get the throttle body to work on the crv. The tsx is 64mm and the crv is 58mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here pix of the finished product since I forgot to post it. I end up buying a spare runner.

left was partial port and polish and right is using the new runners I got. The left had calcium deposits and stuff and I didn't feel like sending it to get hot tank. If anyone wants the left one I can finish it up and put it in the market place.







 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Haven't driven it too long to give an accurate measurement because I been driving it hard just to see what it can do. Will report back with MPG once I stop hot roding it.

If any it will be around the same if not better since any increase in volumetric efficiency or engine breathing has the capability of increasing engine efficiency (by reducing the dreaded "pumping losses" inherent in a piston engine).
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Posted the spare one I PnP in the Trade section.

I might post up the one that practice on in the f/s also at a cheaper
Price since I overported one of the runners near the injector port :(. O well practice makes perfect
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just an FYI my intake runners, manifold, and head had sludge and residue all over them. I am sure that the injectors are clogged or the spray patterned is compromised. The 2 outer cylinder heads had sludge on them that should have been washed out by the injectors. So buy 2 bottles of brake cleaner when doing this
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also the best way to do this is to watch the YouTube video on how to replace the starter. You don't have to take off the front top beam. I slide my intake manifold out using the right side. Even though it was a pain in the butt. Also not sure if I said this or not but in added a hondata thermal intake manifold gasket instead of using the Honda metal one
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here some pix of the runners that I pulled out before taking it to the machine shop for cleaning
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Found the freaken P2R I4 port and polish runners for the k24a4 accord. Should be similar power gain for the CRV :). Like I said Butt dyno likes. Take it with a grain of salt though. 30 ft/lb of wtq gain in the mid range and 15-20 whp. Only thing I can say is that there is power gain throughout the rev range

 
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