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I used Lock Ease Graphited Fluid.
You used the correct fluid for the cylinder. You don't want any oils or other solvents (silicone, WD40, white lithium, etc.) getting into the lock cylinder since they are known to gum up over time. Graphite is the only thing that can safely go in and lubricate the pins without them sticking in the future. Having said that, I've owned cars since the early 80s and have never had to lubricate a car's lock tumbler.

My guess is that your locking mechanism in the door is corroded. You would need to go in and lubricate all of the rods with white lithium grease, and work them dozens of times to free them up. Detaching all the rods and cleaning them before the white lithium grease is even better, although it's a lot more work. What happens is, the mechanisms bind up from corrosion and do not move smoothly. Your electric locks should work inside the car with no problem. And I believe that you can lock/unlock all the doors from the driver's door with the power locks on the 1st gen CR-V by using the key. (I haven't used mine in a while.) You should probably lube and clean all four doors plus the tailgate mechanism, which is accessible through the small door in the tailgate trim. Your CR-V is 20 years old and if it's in wetter/saltier climates, the mechanisms will corrode.

If the mechanisms work fine after lubricating but the power locks do not work from inside the vehicle, then most likely it is one of two things--a bad lock actuator, or frayed wiring between the door and the body of the car (which is a very common failure).

You can add the keyless entry simply by purchasing the right key fob(s) and then programming them using a simple process. Cheap on eBay!
 
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