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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought my '07 EX-L CR-V just a month ago and it wasn't until I brought it home that I noticed the front passenger door slowly unlocking itself after locking it (manually, switch, or FOB). I reviewed the challenge of replacing the actuator, along with the cost of the part ($45 or more for actuator/latch assembly), plus labor from the dealer if I paid them($100+), and just sat on it for a few weeks until a simple solution dawned on me. A simple $5 (or around there) throttle spring is strong enough to hold the lock in the locked position once arrived at through any means of locking the door. Below are the tools, instructions and photos to follow along.

Tools needed:
Phillips screw driver
2 needle-nose pliers
Fastener remover or flat screw driver

Parts needed:
1-7/8 x 3/8" x 1-1/2 x .032" Throttle Return Spring (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40655?seid=srese1&gclid=CPad_5rA670CFclDMgodRj8AiA)
Zip ties (small, 3" or so)

Remove the door panel screw covers and screws as pictured below:
20140418_195650-horz.jpg

Remove the small panel in the corner of the window, pulling outward from the windowed-edge (front doors only):
20140418_195802.jpg

Now begin at either lower corner of the door with a flat screw driver or panel fastener remover wedged in between the door panel and the door frame to separate them, paying close attention to where the fasteners are and prying them loose without breaking them. Continue around the full edge of the door until the panel easily swings outward and upward.

Carefully release the wiring harness by pressing the latch inward while pulling the plug. Snap the handle/lock assembly out of the door panel.

Video clip found on YouTube to remove the door panel:

You'll now take your throttle return spring and bend the loop at each side as shown below, using the needle-nose pliers (2 are easier than 1):
20140418_184135-horz.jpg

Loop side A around the door lock pull rod, and insert side B through the handle housing as follows:
20140418_184257-horz.jpg

Alternate view:
20140418_184250-horz.jpg

Secure/tighten side A with the needle nose pliers, then take your zip-tie and loop it partially through the spring, and then around the lock connector to prevent the spring from sliding down and rubbing on the door handle assembly when in use. Cut off excess zip-tie after secured (do not over-tighten).
20140418_184340-horz.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Continued...

Your completed project should match this general appearance:
20140418_184929.jpg

Verify that your lock now stays securely locked:
20140418_184818.jpg

Reassemble your door panel in the reverse order using previous steps.

All done! Your V will now stay securely locked and activate the security system when all doors are locked and shut, or armed with your FOB.
 

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Brilliant! I love to see the results of gray matter in use.

Do you think the cause of the problem was a broken spring inside the electric door actuator? Any way to take it apart or is it melted together?

Also, excellent labeled pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I haven't dug into the latch/actuator assembly to see what the real cause of this problem is, but I suspect that it's either a failing spring, or a worn latch that used to hold the lock position in place. You can only buy the latch assembly and not internal parts so I don't know if it would even be worth investigating since you may as well replace the full thing if you buy another one for the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My driver's door just started having this problem. Gonna have to use my own fix again lol... Stupid actuators...
 

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Most excellent DIY fix and documented How-To.
Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Another successful fix :cool:

Driver's door now staying locked again
20140522_204348.jpg
 

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Hello, is the link in the fix directly to the correct spring (correct size etc?) I went to the link and the #'s look different than you have listed as part. Also, are the zip ties metal? Where do you get the ones you recommend using?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I can't say whether the part numbers are the same, but the link appears to be the same spring as what I bought locally at O'Reily Auto Parts. It's the smallest sized throttle return spring on the shelf. As for the zip ties, they are plastic, and are the smallest zip ties from an assorted pack I bought, the 4" length (also from O'Reily). They can be white or black, doesn't matter. So far this fix has held up well on both doors that have needed it.
 

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I know we're almost 4 years out, but how long did this fix work for you?? I have both rear actuators automatically unlocking now...won't hold the latch locked and am debating dropping the $120 for 2 actuators vs this.
 

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@Blurrider, Have you tried this yet? Did it work? I am seriously thinking of trying this first, before spending money on an actuator.
 

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@Blurrider, Have you tried this yet? Did it work? I am seriously thinking of trying this first, before spending money on an actuator.
Unfortunately, I didn't-- I replaced them with Ebay actuators for ~$50 total for both rears. Haven't had any difficulty since.

From what I can recall the covers of the actuators needed to be replaced with those from the ones that were in the car...still though, $25 each was reasonable.
 

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Interesting, and a great fix - well thought out and executed. Unfortunately for me, the issue I'm having is the opposite one (so far). In my right front(passenger) door, the actuator instantly re-locks itself as soon as unlocked, every time. I went ahead and ordered the OEM part, which is $65+tax and shipping now. But I haven't replaced it yet, as I rarely have a passenger. So far, when I have, quick timing gets it open, but I guess I'd better get it done before that stops working and while I can still get the door open. Luckily all my other ones are still working correctly so far, so I plan to do this this week. But I will keep this great fix in mind for the future. Thanks to the OP for it.
 
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