Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Strut tower reenforcement

Illegal,
I suppose that makes sense. If you wanted to some carpeting can cover what the access cover would have.

Chris,
Dam! You don't even know how much. I am guessing they will not be cheap. Possibly more than a new alternator.

Did we win the lottery? Don't forget your buddy RG :D
He could use an elevator. Only about as much as a top end V including the extended warranty and tax plus a tip. I'm not greedy. :D

-RG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Illegal,
I suppose that makes sense. If you wanted to some carpeting can cover what the access cover would have.

Chris,
Dam! You don't even know how much. I am guessing they will not be cheap. Possibly more than a new alternator.

Did we win the lottery? Don't forget your buddy RG :D
He could use an elevator. Only about as much as a top end V including the extended warranty and tax plus a tip. I'm not greedy. :D

-RG
ha! i wish i won the lottery but no, the exact opposite. i just lifted the front end of my v. then pulling out of my driveway a bad ball joint gave out. and my battery died, so tomorow or monday im getting the shop to do it all nice and good
 

·
MECP Audio Expert
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
you can feel it in the rear a bit. I have been waiting to see if a civic rear strut bar will fit, but I havent found one laying around to check it with yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Rear strut bar (right terminology?)

dlarsoncrv,
I did not want to start anything but my gut feel was not much improvement in the rear but considerable improvement in the front. The front is wide open with two frame members on the sides. While the rear has the floor and folds in the floor sheet metal to make it more rigid.

The two front frame members are designed to collapse on impact so they cannot be all that rigid.

I call them as I see them. Sorry Chris and ellegal. That is how it makes sense to me.

-RG

Chris maybe it is getting close to making your V a second donor car. Ya, Ya I know, everyone is hurting. Just razing you a bit. But you do not want to put more into your car than it is worth. All these strut bars and other gizmos add up. And now all this labor and parts ar retail:eek:

You know best! Now if I could get touchy feely and look at it up close I might have a better idea.:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,712 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
dlarsoncrv,
I did not want to start anything but my gut feel was not much improvement in the rear but considerable improvement in the front. The front is wide open with two frame members on the sides. While the rear has the floor and folds in the floor sheet metal to make it more rigid.

The two front frame members are designed to collapse on impact so they cannot be all that rigid.

I call them as I see them. Sorry Chris and ellegal. That is how it makes sense to me.

-RG

Chris maybe it is getting close to making your V a second donor car. Ya, Ya I know, everyone is hurting. Just razing you a bit. But you do not want to put more into your car than it is worth. All these strut bars and other gizmos add up. And now all this labor and parts ar retail:eek:

You know best! Now if I could get touchy feely and look at it up close I might have a better idea.:D
haha im trying not to make it nother donor car, and you are right about the frame bending in during a frontal impact, i saw that when my best friend ran his explorer into a tree. im planning on getting a chevy truck since i have had this crv for three years almost
 

·
MECP Audio Expert
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
I understand what your saying, but comming from a racing history, I've had more money in my suspention and chassis stiffening than most people have in their whole cars. Everything adds to everything else, and it all makes a difference in the long run, it all depends on what you want it to do, and your goals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
681 Posts
X2. Suspension setups make all the difference. It doesn't matter if you have a 3,000 hp car if you dont have the suspension setup to get the power down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
X-1 :) If the CR-V needs or recently needed a new Engines, Ball joint, Battery, Alternator.... I forget what else it needed or he has not told us, what will it need in the near future. OLD BETSY might be telling you it is pretty well spent. A horse lays down and and refuses to go any where when it is on it's last breaths. :D

What I unsuccessfully tried to get across is maybe all these new expensive mods are best spent on a newer MORE rugged vehicle, like a REV 2. I think Chris'1 is a Gen I. He is friarly rough on his V. A newer one NOT abused so much should stand up better.

Even Chris admitted he wanted to get a new one as he had this V for three years.

That is all. Yes front and rear strut bars are nice BUT ON the proper vehicle.


-RG
 

·
MECP Audio Expert
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
they would still be fine on this car. My "race car" I just sold was 10 years old with many mods, and also "beat up" and it was better than 95% of the "NEWER" cars I went up against. It doesnt matter how old it is, these are BASIC mods that help ANY vehicle. If the frames not rusted out, and the engines not held in with 1 engine mount and a zip tie, then it is good to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
they would still be fine on this car... It doesn’t matter how old it is. ...If the frames not rusted out, and the engines not held in with 1 engine mount and a zip tie, then it is good to do.
I agree. I figured someone would counter with this but it might matter. Not that Chris’ is V necessarily is, but you do not want to start out with an 8 year old beater that is currently on its 1st or 2nd rebuild due to abuse or neglect. I’m just saying hypothetically that is at all. I’m going to further say that if anyone from or living in Myrtle Beach South Carolina with all of the HUMIDITY and SALT in the AIR is probably not going to have an exactly rust free frame. That is not an off the chart assumption. Maybe it is from Arizona, it is rust free and I’m all wet. But that would be highly unlikely. Maybe the frame is good enough but do you feel that lucky? I have never seen Chris’ car and it maybe it is or was really Cherry. I am just going on what Chris has told us by his postings. Things are constantly breaking down!

But for the sake of argument so I don’t get stoned, :) (as in rocks, not the other kind) if it possibly had significantly hidden corrosion in the subframe would you want to push it like that with unknown amounts of rust to the limit? Isn’t that what the winner has to do? Not be in the top 95% but be in the top 100%. After all that is your goal.

Coordination, ultra quick timing, big gonads or ovaries as the case might be are a few :D (and then there are those in between, I don’t race so I’m sure there are other) and a vehicle you can push to the limit whenever it is called for. I would not want to push the built in safety margins while racing. The outcome might not be too pretty.

Finally, I’m guessing Chris is fairly young and about or under the mid twenties. You never know. I’m guessing he cannot afford to rebuild from the ground up a vehicle that he may rely on for transportation. That he is not doing all the work on it himself. As in the case of the alternator problem. It looked like he ended up having a pro do that getting spooked by a simple alternator. Building race cars is more of an art than a straight forward alternator. Maybe I’m biased coming from an electrical background. Alternators are easy.

If I am going to build a race car and do not have deep pocket, then I better have a sponsor or be ready to put the time in to it to make sure it is done right. So you can push it to the limit reliably. Pedal to the metal. And build it to burn rubber in 4th or at least chirp reliably (one wild dream for a 4WD V without dumping $$$$$ into it at maybe 350 hp in which case a new drive train is in order $$$$$) :D when called upon.

I forgot a 3" lowerd suspension. $$$$$ with 235/40/17 for instance.$$$$$ or about 1.5" lower than stock tires.
All these things do not come by cheap.
"I was Dreaming of a White X-MAS...(or Kwanzaa)" :)

-RG
 

·
MECP Audio Expert
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
my crv had about 350 awd manual, and the awd and the tranny held up fine!
I also have about a 3 inch lower suspention, and it wasnt to bad on price. A good suspention set up is one of the most expensive things to do if done right though.

I also come from an electrical background, commercial/residential, and now cars. I do it all :)

...and you def dont want to burn rubber in 4th or chirp, you want tracktion, which is where a great suspention set up comes in. It doesnt matter if you have 350whp, if you cant transfer the power to the ground, all of it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
You are the expert after all

I have only minimal experience on my Gen 3. Maybe the Gen 1 is more rugged. I have no way of knowing but I rather doubt it. I think I would be replacing drivetrain components all the time if I transplanted a small tricked-out 350 HP V6 in my V! Assuming it fit in the first place. That is my opinion based on what I have seen and how rugged it looks. I do not believe most of the drivetrain would hold up to about twice the designed to HP and torque. A frame and drivetrain designed for a 160ish HP and about the same Ft-Lbs of torque cannot hold up well to an engine with 350 HP and 330 FT-Lbs of torque. No way! Only if you baby it IMO might it hold up for a while. But that is not racing! In racing you do not baby anything. The A/T nor the front and rear diff will last long. The half-shafts and driveshaft are not sufficiently rugged either. Dumping the clutch at 4k RPM surely will get expensive. You would spend more time fixing it that driving it.

If anyone thinks otherwise, that is fine by me as long as I am not nearby when it is driven. :)

About chirping in 4th, I was trying to be funny. I do not know of too many cars that can do that. In any event that is an incredible strain on a drivetrain even in 3rd gear.

Perhaps my comment about alternators was not fair. I do not think I could do your job and you probably cannot do mine without some training. BTW, I was an Electrical Design (Electronics) and Software development Engineer at RCA, Honeywell and finally at Lockheed-Martin. That is not the same as commercial/residential electrical work. Neither job is that relevant to repairing and overhauling an alternator. But after doing it a few times most any DIYer should be able to overhaul an alternator. I was just surprised that you would farm it out and not do it yourself. Since I no longer work due to being disabled my point of view is different. Anything I do is strictly as a DIYer or amateur. Whenever I can and when my health lets me. It also takes me about three times as long to do anything. Or more!

I’m glad you are having fun Illegal, in the mud doing what I consider as abusing your V. If you get your rocks off constantly modifying and replacing components, then more power to you. I have been trying to get the point across unsuccessfully; I am past that stage in my life. If I modify something, it is only because it is a feature not present and I require it. Or the mod would make life more pleasant or easier. I wan to spend as little time as possible maintaining and replacing components that fail due to ‘abuse’. I do it because I enjoy it but it is a stretch just to do normal routine maintenance. I do not have the time, energy or financial resources for racing.

I am glad you do, so you can continue to have fun.

-RG
 

·
MECP Audio Expert
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
to correct the first section of your post, as an example, my crv had 350whp, and was daily driven, and drag raced, and the clutch was dropped at 4 k with no issues to the tranny or frame at all.


To the second secion of the post, I not only did that type of electrical, but I am also currently MECP certified, and work on car audio, electrical daily and run a garage doing it,
(when I'm not building race cars, like 10 sec honda's that are NA, and can hold more whp than you give the chassis credit for).

I'm sorry you dont have the racing knowledge and give the credit to the men and women that have been changing the face of racing as we know it for 15 years when it comes to the honda world, but someone who is not a part of it, is not expected to know about it either, so I'm just here to enlighten the masses that dont know as to what has been going on for the last decade.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top