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Discussion Starter #1
2007 CRV

In June I replaced the pads and rotors on my CVR. Everything was fine until this week when I started hearing a grinding and squeaking from the rear. Braking makes the noise worse. The pads and rotors all seem on good shape. Parking brake is off.
Any idea as to what this may be?
 

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Did you grease the caliper sliders? Maybe they are sticking and the inside pads are shot again. Could also just be something stuck behind the backing plate.
 

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Caliper slider(s) might have been knocked off out of position and/or bent and touching the rotor. Happened to me before.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did you grease the caliper sliders? Maybe they are sticking and the inside pads are shot again. Could also just be something stuck behind the backing plate.
Thanks for the replys.

Unfortunately the answer no. But more importantly. and I feel dumb for asking - what are "caliper sliders"?

I don't know what they are so I know I didn't grease them. This is the second rear brake job I've cone on this CRV - the first one lasted about 70,000 kms and I know I didn't grease them then either.

The noise is getting worse and sounds like the pads are totally gone but visual look at the outside pads thru the rim and they are fine so I'm guessing the inside pads are the problem and because I didn't grease the caliper sliders. I will take the pads off tonight and replace but would really appreciate if some one one could tell me what the caliper sliders are and how to grease them. (again feeling pretty dumb!)

Thanks again
 

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The caliper slides are basically the bolts that hold the calipers on. There are little rubber boots there that protect the slides. The slides are there to let the caliper float freely back and forth. Basically, when you step on the brake the piston pushes the inside pad against the rotor. The caliper that slides inward on the slide and that causes the outside pad to grab. If those slides are rusted in place than only the inside pad is working. Also, that can cause the inner one to not release when you let off the brakes and drag on the rotor.

Each car is a little different, but this video might explain it. I don't have sound right now, but it looks like it is a good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT6C5z409G0

AutoZone sells little packets of grease for about $1 each, or it is about $10 for a giant tube. I would get 1 pack per side unless you are planning more brake jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for your help. Greatly appreciated. In July when I did the brakes I had had a quote for $800 from the dealer to do the rear brake job. Even though I spent more $$ for this second fix, I'm still way ahead over paying the dealer.

I had to replace the pad and rotor (less than 5000 kms). I bought synthetic brake lube and lubed both caliper sliders on both sides of the CRV although the passenger rear was still in new condition. I did notice that on the bad side the caliper piston was very rusted (lots of road salt used in Canada). Would that cause a problem as well? I had already pushed it back in to get the caliper off so couldn't see the full piston but it did look pretty rusted and the rubber boot folded over somewhat in doing so. Any thoughts?
 

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I had one of my 2000 front pistons seize out and not retract and cause the brakes to stick because the piston was rusty. I cleaned it a couple times and got it working again. The second time I put some grease around it to keep it from rusting again, but the seal leaked a little on it eventually. I ended up just replacing the calipers to not have to worry about it .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so I greased the caliper sliders, put on new pads and all seemed good. But now the noise has come back. After a short drive the rear rim and roter is extremely how. It would seem that rear pads on the drivers side are still rubbing against the rotor. So I'm guessing the next step would be to replace the caliper? Is that the most logical way to proceed?
 

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If your wheel centers are still hot, it COULD be a binding caliper...but try this first:


There are stainless 'guides' on the top and bottom of the pad holders. Rust can occur UNDERNEATH these holders, and that can cause the pads to stick.

Remove the pads, then remove the SS guides (don't mix up top & bottom). Sand or file the caliper material underneath so the they don't hold the pads in at all. (The pads should 'fall out' of the guides)

Once you achieve that, remove the guides one more time and apply high temp brake grease (such as the Molykote that comes with factory pads, or the CRC product below) on the underside of the guides to prevent future corrosion.



PS: We are assuming you used high temp brake grease on the slider pins. If you used regular grease, it has baked away due to the heat. So, re-apply!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If your wheel centers are still hot, it COULD be a binding caliper...but try this first:


There are stainless 'guides' on the top and bottom of the pad holders. Rust can occur UNDERNEATH these holders, and that can cause the pads to stick.

Remove the pads, then remove the SS guides (don't mix up top & bottom). Sand or file the caliper material underneath so the they don't hold the pads in at all. (The pads should 'fall out' of the guides)

Once you achieve that, remove the guides one more time and apply high temp brake grease (such as the Molykote that comes with factory pads, or the CRC product below) on the underside of the guides to prevent future corrosion.



PS: We are assuming you used high temp brake grease on the slider pins. If you used regular grease, it has baked away due to the heat. So, re-apply!
Thanks I'll give that a try. And yes I did use a high temp brake grease.

The SS guides - are they the clips or springs that come with the new pads? Just want to make sure I understand before I start this work.
 
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