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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got done replacing a bunch of suspension items including RTABs, rear sway bar end links, motor mounts and brakes front and rear. After I bolted everything back together, I nearly shit myself at how negative the camber is in the rear. I don’t remember it ever being this way. What the hell did I do wrong?
As far as I know, there is no way to adjust rear camber unless you get an aftermarket upper control arm.
I’m taking it in for alignment this week. Hopefully the shop can take care of it, but if anyone here has had this experience and knows what the fix is, I would be grateful!


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2018 EX-L fwd
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When you bolted everything back together, was your vehicle on stands or on the ground? As has been listed on this site, many tighten on the stands, then again when on the ground after the vehicle has "set" itself. Did much of what you did to our 2008 many years ago. As many here have experienced, there is a great satisfaction / frustration quotient when doing work on our vehicles.

Suggest two things to check.
1.] were the struts replaced correctly? There is a slight difference in the angle that the strut has when attached to the rotor. Might have to rotate that strut 180° to get it to hang correctly. Had to do that in my job when I had problems reattaching a new strut to the rotor.
2.] when jacked up & on safety stands, remove wheels & tires. KEEP HANDS & FINGERS IN SAFE LOCATIONS TO DO THE FOLLOWING - Slightly loosen everything you replaced, if feasible, then give a good yank on each rotor. If things were not reassembled correctly, you may hear a clank & see the assemble settle back into its original position. If you've ever done drum brakes, you'll know what I'm talking about. Once all the springs, pins, & shoes were assembled, grabbed both shoes & gave a slight twist to "set" everything, then replaced the drum.

One further piece of recommendation. In the future, take several "before" pictures of your problem area. Use them to compare how your repairs are progressing.

Hope this helps. Keep us updated so as to help others who may encounter this same problem.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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As has been listed on this site, many tighten on the stands, then again when on the ground after the vehicle has "set" itself.
This is always Good Practice.

I'd be prepared with sources of camber adjustment hardware before bringing it in for alignment. Here are some of the components you might need. TROUBLESHOOT FIRST!

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When you bolted everything back together, was your vehicle on stands or on the ground? As has been listed on this site, many tighten on the stands, then again when on the ground after the vehicle has "set" itself. Did much of what you did to our 2008 many years ago. As many here have experienced, there is a great satisfaction / frustration quotient when doing work on our vehicles.

Suggest two things to check.
1.] were the struts replaced correctly? There is a slight difference in the angle that the strut has when attached to the rotor. Might have to rotate that strut 180° to get it to hang correctly. Had to do that in my job when I had problems reattaching a new strut to the rotor.
2.] when jacked up & on safety stands, remove wheels & tires. KEEP HANDS & FINGERS IN SAFE LOCATIONS TO DO THE FOLLOWING - Slightly loosen everything you replaced, if feasible, then give a good yank on each rotor. If things were not reassembled correctly, you may hear a clank & see the assemble settle back into its original position. If you've ever done drum brakes, you'll know what I'm talking about. Once all the springs, pins, & shoes were assembled, grabbed both shoes & gave a slight twist to "set" everything, then replaced the drum.

One further piece of recommendation. In the future, take several "before" pictures of your problem area. Use them to compare how your repairs are progressing.

Hope this helps. Keep us updated so as to help others who may encounter this same problem.
This is good advice, I’ll mention it to the alignment shop when I take it in. I did tighten a lot of it on Jack stands, certain parts had to be tightened while the floor Jack was compressing the strut.
In terms of the strut not being reinstalled correctly, the only thing I did to it was remove the lower flange bolt attaching to the control arm. The strut did not twist at all as it was still being held in alignment by the control arm.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just heard back from alignment shop. They say it is unalignable for the following reasons:
“The rtabs are cockeyed and not pressed in properly, and the struts appear too short for the vehicle, causing excess negative camber”

The struts are the same and were not replaced, and I feel like the rtabs were pressed with care regarding depth and orientation… and how could they affect camber anyway?


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Just heard back from alignment shop. They say it is unalignable for the following reasons:
“The rtabs are cockeyed and not pressed in properly, and the struts appear too short for the vehicle, causing excess negative camber"

They may just be saying the trailing arm bushings are "not pressed in properly", because that would affect toe, not camber. And if it did affect camber, it wouldn't be enough to make it THAT negative.

Also, how old are the struts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
They may just be saying the trailing arm bushings are "not pressed in properly", because that would affect toe, not camber. And if it did affect camber, it wouldn't be enough to make it THAT negative.

Also, how old are the struts?
Yeah I am coming to terms with the possibility that the RTABs are a little off... Hoping I can fix it relatively easily without have to completely press them out again.
As far as I know, the struts are original. Still, have you ever heard of struts just deciding to fail after being in the air for an extended period?
 

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2001 Crv SE
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Pictures would help for trailing arm bushings. First thing i would do is measure ride height. Weak rear springs are the main reason for negative rear camber. If ride height is too low you can jack up under the rear crossmember to proper ride height and see if the wheel looks how it should. If so, then i would replace the rear shocks and springs. Assuming you don't have a bunch of weight in the back.

You can space out the rear upper control arms from the body to increase camber. You don't have to replace them, just shim behind them for negative camber. Look at the upper control arm bushings as well. The more worn out they are, the more negative camber will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pictures would help for trailing arm bushings. First thing i would do is measure ride height. Weak rear springs are the main reason for negative rear camber. If ride height is too low you can jack up under the rear crossmember to proper ride height and see if the wheel looks how it should. If so, then i would replace the rear shocks and springs. Assuming you don't have a bunch of weight in the back.

You can space out the rear upper control arms from the body to increase camber. You don't have to replace them, just shim behind them for negative camber. Look at the upper control arm bushings as well. The more worn out they are, the more negative camber will be.
Thanks for this tip. I will try it out. It does look lower in the back, so I guess I’ll have replace the rear struts. I was hoping to replace them when I get her lifted, but looks like I’ll have to get something basic for now.
Unfortunately I don’t have any pics of the RTABs, but I pressed them in until the edge lined up with the outer lip of the trailing arm. Have you ever been able to back them off slightly using a hammer?



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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So far we’ve established my rear struts are probably donezo, causing excess negative camber.
Now I am Bumping because I am now trying to figure out why my rear toe is still very out.

I’m unable to adjust any further (same with the alignment shop). The compensator arm still has room to move medially on the driver side, but on the passenger side it is completely maxed medially. Both rear wheels are toe out.

As the alignment shop said, the RTABs are “cockeyed” and not pressed correctly. I pressed to the correct depth when installing, and it seemed to be going in uniformly. Could this still be my problem? Is there an easy fix?


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You need to get the camber straightened out first. Camber effects toe, which is why camber is your first adjustment on an alignment.
That’s really good to know!
Now here’s the thing, I plan to get the crv lifted in the near future, which I would require new struts for. In this case, would you recommend getting new, cheap struts in the back right now, or just temporarily making due with the shims to correct the camber?


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The shocks job is to prevent the tire from bouncing while driving. It does do a lot on traction.
If you cut the springs to lower the vehicle the shocks don't push it back up to what it was before.
The problem is elsewhere.

Check the end of the spring location where it should sit on the strut assembly both at the top and at the bottom.
Mine were out of rotation so the spring end was not sitting on the resting place (lack if better terms) changing alignment. Can't recall if + or -.

The other thing that can be snooping on you is that the suspension bushing may look good but once you remove them you will see the bushing is offset, again mine had that problem.

A word of advice, don't buy dorman lower control arms.I got 2 and they were listed and etched as the right parts but they were 1/4" shorts giving me a really bad positive camber. I lost a set of tires before finding out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
^^ Could you do the lift NOW? The money would be less in total....
I thought about it, but it would require more time to research and then replace both front and rear struts, which I don’t have at the moment. I also want to get new tires and space the wheels all at the same time, so it’s just more work and research than I can tackle at the moment.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The shocks job is to prevent the tire from bouncing while driving. It does do a lot on traction.
If you cut the springs to lower the vehicle the shocks don't push it back up to what it was before.
The problem is elsewhere.

Check the end of the spring location where it should sit on the strut assembly both at the top and at the bottom.
Mine were out of rotation so the spring end was not sitting on the resting place (lack if better terms) changing alignment. Can't recall if + or -.

The other thing that can be snooping on you is that the suspension bushing may look good but once you remove them you will see the bushing is offset, again mine had that problem.

A word of advice, don't buy dorman lower control arms.I got 2 and they were listed and etched as the right parts but they were 1/4" shorts giving me a really bad positive camber. I lost a set of tires before finding out..
Thanks. Good advice I will take a look again when I’m under the car. Out of town now, so I’m just thinking if I can preemptively order new parts and have them arrive by the time I get back home.
I’m not really sure how the spring could have gotten twisted like your describing since all I did was unbolt the bottom for more movement of the control arm. Either way, I’ll take a look…


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I bought the cheap autoshack brand loaded shocks all the way around from amazon. Not sure how long I've had them on, but i have no complaints. I know they have been on at least a year. Comparable to monroe oe spectrum in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I tried to hold off by placing some shims, but it didn’t get the camber to where I want it, so I caved in and bought some new rear struts. Real good deal on Amazon which included rear end links for total of $88. Detroit Axle. Seems to get good reviews.
I’ll install this weekend and report back.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bumping thread fo seek help on rear toe issue. I am currently maxed out on toe-in, but still noticeably toe-out.
I know it has to do with the RTABs.
Does anyone have any suggestions for how I deal with this? I really don’t want to push the RTABs out and start over.


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From what I understand.
Everything was straight before, except for rta bushing being replaced. Aside from the other stuff
Now it's way off
So no accidents or bad rust(specially)
Basically all metal parts straight(assumption)


There is nothing there other than the metal parts and bushings.

bushing may look good but once you remove them you will see the bushing is offset
If the rta bushings were bad the others are just as old. Not necessarily missing a chunk or with bad cracks but deformed which is what causes the illusion that people keep saying " they look good"

Just some food for thoughts.

Mine is 99 fwd and I installed RTA Urethane bushings from Energy Suspension. Yes I went with Urethane, and nothing bad to speak of other than that bit of stiffness over bumps.
And to top it off they are for a 99 integra LS.
Again it is straight like an arrow.

Remove the bushings, they might be sent to you incorrectly or defective.
Readjust sway are links on the flat floor not while vehicle is on the jackstands.
 
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