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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys! So, I am currently working on my father's 2017 CRV and doing some general maintenance items. Just got finished with an oil change and brake fluid flush. I then moved onto the rear diff. Luckily, I always learned to first crack open the fill bolt, so that is where I went. However, the sucker is STUCK on there good! What I have tried is a breaker bar, an impact wrench, soaking it in Kroil, but to no avail.
I would try heat with my MAPP gas torch, but I noticed that there is a sealing surface with silicone all around it right near the fill bolt, so I just don't want to end up burning the silicone and creating a leak. Anyone have any tips on what I can try to get the fill bolt off? I also noticed that a 3/8 ratchet head doesn't quite fit all the way in, so is it a different size than what I'm trying to use?
 

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17 CRV EXL AWD, 14 CRV EXL AWD
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Don't use a torch on it. Take it to a shop or dealer first. Getting it raised up on a rack can vastly improve the leverage you can place on a breaker bar.
3/8" is correct, but I believe on that plug I have to use a stubby (very short) extension to get enough clearance to full seat in the plug.
 

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I agree with traylaw. You need to find ways to increase your ability to create leverage. You can raise the car higher on the jackstands to give yourself more room. You can add an extension into the hole so it seats better, and bonus the extension might be indexed differently so your breaker bar can have more swing arc. Alternatively, you can get a longer 3/8” handled ratchet, or adding a cheater pipe onto it. And if all else fails, consider what the fish did with a floor jack:

 

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What size impact are you using? If a decent 1/2" (so, not one of those that comes in a generic air compressor starter kit) with a 3/8" adapter isn't taking it off, I'd head to the dealer. Yes, you can do all sorts of crazy things to add leverage, but paying the dealer one time isn't likely to break the bank, and is less likely to end with broken tools, stripped bolts, and flying metal.
 

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What size impact are you using? If a decent 1/2" (so, not one of those that comes in a generic air compressor starter kit) with a 3/8" adapter isn't taking it off, I'd head to the dealer. Yes, you can do all sorts of crazy things to add leverage, but paying the dealer one time isn't likely to break the bank, and is less likely to end with broken tools, stripped bolts, and flying metal.
I agree.

I seem to recall another member posting recently that they actually stripped the threads on their CRV.

This is one of those... take it to the dealer this time around and have the differential serviced moments. Honda drive systems are pretty complex yet elegant these days.. and messing up one thing could result in compounding issues. Better to let a dealer mess something up and have to correct it than you. Think of it as money well spent as insurance against a major damage event to the differential.
 

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used a major compnanies one


Husky rachet was what you seen me snag it off with fish
I might even suggest going bigger:


or even a 24” long 1/2” drive tool. Ive gotten to the point where I’d prefer to buy the tool that makes things easier rather than to have wear and tear on the body trying muscle something off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys! I guess the dealer may be a good idea here. Although, the other ideas given here are pretty good, and may be worth a shot. The impact I was using was a 1/2 inch electric Ridgid impact, I'll throw a link for it down below. Its crazy, I have been able to remove any other fill bolt I've tried, but this one is something else! And then with the silicone being so close, heat doesn't seem to be an option unfortunately. If I do take it to the dealer this time around, then should I crack the fill bolt off when I get the car back home and do something to make it easier for the next time so I don't have to take it to the dealer again? From my experience, dealers usually torque things down with a few ugga duggas making it difficult next time I try to DIY.

 

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Waiting to see someone put up a photo of a 10 foot breaker bar, complete with leverage inducing lockable pivot points in the shaft of the bar, and a self fastening magnetic socket so the owner does not even have to crawl under the vehicle to apply torgue.. only under long enough to insert the socket to bolt and lock it in place.

:ROFLMAO:
 

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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I guess the dealer may be a good idea here. Although, the other ideas given here are pretty good, and may be worth a shot. The impact I was using was a 1/2 inch electric Ridgid impact, I'll throw a link for it down below. Its crazy, I have been able to remove any other fill bolt I've tried, but this one is something else! And then with the silicone being so close, heat doesn't seem to be an option unfortunately. If I do take it to the dealer this time around, then should I crack the fill bolt off when I get the car back home and do something to make it easier for the next time so I don't have to take it to the dealer again? From my experience, dealers usually torque things down with a few ugga duggas making it difficult next time I try to DIY.

I bet the core issue here is two fold:

1) zealous torque down at the factory when assembled.

2) dis-similar metals between bolt and casing that over time cause either temperature or chemical (or both) induced freeze-up of the threads. I believe the casing is an aluminum alloy and the bolt is of course some alloy of steel.

I bet Honda dealers have a method to deal with these pesky hard to remove differential bolts
 

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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I guess the dealer may be a good idea here. Although, the other ideas given here are pretty good, and may be worth a shot. The impact I was using was a 1/2 inch electric Ridgid impact, I'll throw a link for it down below. Its crazy, I have been able to remove any other fill bolt I've tried, but this one is something else! And then with the silicone being so close, heat doesn't seem to be an option unfortunately. If I do take it to the dealer this time around, then should I crack the fill bolt off when I get the car back home and do something to make it easier for the next time so I don't have to take it to the dealer again? From my experience, dealers usually torque things down with a few ugga duggas making it difficult next time I try to DIY.

Im curious as to what kind of adapters/universals/extensions you used with the impact wrench.

FWIW, I would have never even thought about using an impact wrench for the two differential plugs. Ive always used ratchets or breaker bars, usually around 15” in length.
 

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What I used in the past was my floor jack and the weight of the car, the impact tool to me does not hold that leverege like @ajchien said longer the better
I had used this method on my 97 CRV, use a standard 3/8 socket wrench, put it into the square hole, set it so it is level, slightly pointed back and use the jack to slowly jack the car up using the socket wrench as the jack point. you don't have to jack the car off the ground, just enough to use the weight of the car to break the drain plug off
 

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I had used this method on my 97 CRV, use a standard 3/8 socket wrench, put it into the square hole, set it so it is level, slightly pointed back and use the jack to slowly jack the car up using the socket wrench as the jack point. you don't have to jack the car off the ground, just enough to use the weight of the car to break the drain plug off
Exactly. with the angle today it is to be carefully not to slip or damage . I have a vid of it somewhere. if on the atf trans as well. unconventionally done if asked
 

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is this the first time it has been changed? Your dad the original owner? maybe somebody previously had buggered up the threads and used some red locktite or something else to keep it from leaking. And the question that has to be asked are you turning it the right way?
 

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Instead of taking it to a dealer you could take it to garage like Firestone or Walmart and ask them to break the plug loose and don't over tightened it back. I think once the vehicle is up in the air you won't have much trouble getting the plug off with a breaker bar. If they aren't busy they will usually not even charge you, though slipping a tip to the mechanic is always appreciated.
 

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When I tried to remove the fill bolt, I noticed the 3/8 inch ratchet did not want to go in all the way.
That stupid little thing to push on the head to release the ball kept it from going in.
Had to use a cheaper ratchet to get it to go in all the way.
Need all the toque you can get on to the bolt without distorting the bolt.
 
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