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Discussion Starter #1
I've read a few posts about the fluid problem but wonder if mine is worse (ie rear differential shot). I have a 2007 with 48k (ugh!) and when you turn into a parking spot (ie-hard left or right) not only do you hear it but you can feel a repetative quick thumping. I'm bringing it to the dealer but I want to ask if anyones has experienced the problem to this level. I don't want the dealer giving me some new fluid and telling me I'm ok. My drive train warranty and/or three year warranty is coming fast.

Thanks...Nick
 

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diy

Change the rear diff yourself (or have the dealer do it) and see if that addresses the issue. Be sure if you do it yourself to actually drive around in sharp left and right figure 8's so you get the new fluid in there to lubricate.

This thread should help you do it yourself:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6585&highlight=instructions+rear+differential

Take a look at that thread even if you're to have a dealer or mechanic do it as there are lots of links and helpful knowledge for you.

Shuddering is a common problem with rear differntials whose fluid has not been changed in a while and it just starts wearing down.

If the dealer does give you new fluid and you aren't ok, you've eliminated the rear diff and they can proceed to look into other items while you're still under warranty.

Good luck! Do let us know!
 

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If you do it yourself it cost about $13. My dealer wanted $100. It's pretty much how I got into working on my car..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The dealer said this is maintenance item and needed to be changed every 15,000 miles. I have no problem doing it myself but it seems weird that this fluid would break down so soon.
 

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I'd rather have the dealer do it as then I'm covered if it turns into something worse. I'm not paying $100 though. Isn't this covered under the drive train warranty? I can't imagine fluid breaking down and causing noise/shuddering like that does not affect the rear end.
Fluids are maintenance items that the owner of the vehicle is required to change at the required intervals.
 

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I know this is an old Thread BUT did the fluid change stop the Shuttering?
 

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Changing the fluid is usually the cure. It doesn't matter if it's due before the MM say's so, it just takes some water to get in there to need a fluid change.

I've heard the noise on my 2000 CRV, and once the fluid was replaced the Rear Diff. worked 100% again, without any ill effects. And beleive me, I've taken my CRV in deeper than recommended water.

These things are almost bullet-proof!
 

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I don't have issue with my '99. It's a stupid simple job, I change it once a year.
My friend bought one 2004ish. and it does have a shudder/ jump when turning. Just hoping the fluid change will help this jumpier then normally reported rear end.
 

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For a bad shudder, you'll want to do some figure 8s or tight turns afterwards to burnish the clutch plates. You might even need a 2nd change afterwards.
 

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Ok so a Shudder being only 'tired' fluid IS possible.
That will be good news for my friend
 

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Just discovered that you can get a non Honda Dual pump fluid....http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=4&id_subcateg=0&id_products=465
Hi ozklomp, not sure where you are but in WA, the price of HDPFS is similar for OEM or Penrite. I noted it in this post. http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/19-maintenance-service/44953-using-non-oem-oil-up-honda-specs.html

I also got some comments in the thread about using non-OEM oil.
------------------------------

I do have a query about doing figure 8 sharp turns--> do they have to be done at a speed or I can do them at slow crawling speed whilst fully turning left and then fully right?
 

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You don't have to be moving fast. What you're looking for is the difference in wheel speed inner vs outer while making the turns as that is what gives the relative motion difference on the diff clutch plates.
 

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You don't have to be moving fast. What you're looking for is the difference in wheel speed inner vs outer while making the turns as that is what gives the relative motion difference on the diff clutch plates.
Thanks! Going to attempt the ATF this weekend and the Diff next weekend.
 

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Hello guys. I have an issue with noise at tight turns and I found this debate...

I have a 2010 CR-V and at 80k my mechanic changed rear diff fluid as written in maintenance manual. Before I had no problems. I wasn't careful enough when he did it and he put some other oil in it. Good quality but definitive not Honda. I had no problems for the next 10 months. After that, at 90k km, I noticed noise and vibrations on tight turns at slow speed. A Honda mechanic told me that the problems is for sure the rear diff fluid and so he changed it. He put in original Honda fluid, but only 1l. The noise and vibrations got worse in the next couple of days so I went back to him. We realized that he should put in at least 1.2l. So he managed to add another 0.3l inside before the oil started to run out through the top hole. The situation is much better now, but it is still not ok. The noise and vibration I hear are not normal and they were definitly not there a year ago.

What do you recommend to do?
 

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Hello guys. I have an issue with noise at tight turns and I found this debate...

I have a 2010 CR-V and at 80k my mechanic changed rear diff fluid as written in maintenance manual. Before I had no problems. I wasn't careful enough when he did it and he put some other oil in it. Good quality but definitive not Honda. I had no problems for the next 10 months. After that, at 90k km, I noticed noise and vibrations on tight turns at slow speed. A Honda mechanic told me that the problems is for sure the rear diff fluid and so he changed it. He put in original Honda fluid, but only 1l. The noise and vibrations got worse in the next couple of days so I went back to him. We realized that he should put in at least 1.2l. So he managed to add another 0.3l inside before the oil started to run out through the top hole. The situation is much better now, but it is still not ok. The noise and vibration I hear are not normal and they were definitly not there a year ago.

What do you recommend to do?
Drain again, Put in the FULL 1 Qt that should be in the Diff. Quantity might be a bit more or less depends on the angle of the vehicle. There is a procedure about having all four wheels off the ground and holding one rear tire and letting the other one turn and then do the same to the other side. But after replacing Fluid, go to a Parking Lot and turn the wheel full turns in one direction and do some circles, then reverse direction and do circles. Hopefully that will get the friction chemicals all back. When Mechanic first did the oil change, did he top off a low oil situation or did he just not fill properly? Hoping you didn't drive with low oil for a long time.
 

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Hi Tony, thank you for your answer. Your English is a bit on a high level for me :)

What does this mean "Put in the FULL 1 Qt that should be in the Diff"? Does it mean to simply drain everything from the diff and refill until full? Should I do the procedure with holding one rear tire and then another ... when draining so that everything gets out or just after the new oil is filled up?

My Mechanic did just drain everything and then fill only 1 liter instead of 1.3l. Don't understand what does it mean to top off a low oil situation...
I drove about 10 days meaning probably 300km, maybe 400.
 
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