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Discussion Starter #1
Someone told me to avoid putting on a new head that has been rebuilt, onto an old, high mile engine because the added compression will blow oil or blow the engine. Is this true? Makes no sense to me. I mean what do I want? a leaky valve head so it has reduced compression? ugghhh

Also would you reuse the original head bolts?

I can get a refurbished head on Ebay for 375, is this a good deal? All the parts guys around here have nothing.....just engines fo rlike 900 to 1400 bucks.
 

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A refurbished head will put added strain on a bottom end if the head has been decked so it's flat. It shouldn't necessarily blow oil unless the rings are worn out and can't handle the new compression pressures. As far as re-using the head bolts, I'm not sure. I know I wouldn't if they are 'stretch' bolts, as those are one time use only.
I wouldn't hesitate to put the head on, but I would keep good oil in the engine realizing that the bearings are still 'old'. I wouldn't run the engine as if it were new just because of the increased power from fixing the valves. The lower end is still old and thus should be treated as such.
I've never priced refurb'd heads, but $375 doesn't sound too bad if it's from a reputable source, given the amount of work it takes to grind all the valves and seats, replace the guides etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A refurbished head will put added strain on a bottom end if the head has been decked so it's flat. It shouldn't necessarily blow oil unless the rings are worn out and can't handle the new compression pressures. As far as re-using the head bolts, I'm not sure. I know I wouldn't if they are 'stretch' bolts, as those are one time use only.
I wouldn't hesitate to put the head on, but I would keep good oil in the engine realizing that the bearings are still 'old'. I wouldn't run the engine as if it were new just because of the increased power from fixing the valves. The lower end is still old and thus should be treated as such.
I've never priced refurb'd heads, but $375 doesn't sound too bad if it's from a reputable source, given the amount of work it takes to grind all the valves and seats, replace the guides etc.
Yepp....gonna treat the engine like an old fart... Just hoping it will run ok enough to get in a couple of months driving until the snow hits. When that happens, I'm most likely going to get very ambitious and pull that motor out either rebuild of find new....or even do a V-Tec swap I've been hearing about. Not sure how much of a job that would be. If I can use the original transmission with a V-Tec motor, I may seriously think about it.

Thanks for the tips.
 

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That is a definite yes or no.

I have heard that for about 40 years.

What is going on now?

When I burned a valve, the shop wanted to do a leak-down test. They pump air in through a sparkplug hole and measure how much it leaks. Then you listen for where it is leaking, exhaust pipe, intake manifold (burnt valves), radiator(something cracked or blown head-gasket) oil fill cap (leaking rings).

If you don't have leaking rings, do a valve job on it.

If you have leaking rings, the valve job will increase the strain on the rings and often times make them leak even more.
 

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Is there any reason why your not taking your cylinder head from your engine to REPUTABLE machine shop ? There has been many valve jobs done over the years without worring about the bottom end. JMO, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there any reason why your not taking your cylinder head from your engine to REPUTABLE machine shop?
Already did and it turns out the head I have has been worked over before by someone and a few other factors the machinist pointed out. He quoted "I wouldn't use that head"

I searched around here for another head, but it's like speaking another language, no one wants to part an engine, only sell it all for like 900.00 to 1,400.00 Salvage shops have nothing and I called three.

I got frustrated and would like to drive this thing a couple of months with the current engine while the weather is still pretty good and snow/salt free, before I do the body work and fix it up real nice for next spring. So I ended up buying a refurb off of EBAY and waiting for it to come, which has been a while so far.
 

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I think you're on the right track.
Any good machinist isn't going to recommend you use a head that isn't going to work well especially if he's working on it.
A refurb'd head will be good enough for your purposes.
I'd recommend you look into getting one of those used engines from Japan I see advertised. They are not all used up and I've read of others using them with good results.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think you're on the right track.
Any good machinist isn't going to recommend you use a head that isn't going to work well especially if he's working on it.
A refurb'd head will be good enough for your purposes.
I'd recommend you look into getting one of those used engines from Japan I see advertised. They are not all used up and I've read of others using them with good results.
I got a reply and the head is being shipped out today with a tracking number(thank God) I've been itching to get this thing running, or, see if it will run better with new head. Probably blow, but it's ok, if it does, I'm taking the whole engine/tranny out, searching for a real nice bottom end and really thinking of doing the V-Tec head swap... seems pretty simple to do if you put your mind on it. Combine that with an Iron Man lifted springs and some slightly larger tires and then body work'fresh paint... it will be a pretty nice CRV for the Spring when I pull it out. I've already carefully inspected all brake lines and suspension rubber joints and they look like new, no rot at all even with these miles. I have one rear ripped CV boot and a right front broken spring, no big deal,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh goodness, what am I doing?

Just spent another 194 dollars on OEM(Real Deal) head bolts and timing belt from an online genuine Honda parts dealer.

I went with OEM, because this seems to be an interference engine and if it all works out and the bottom end is good I might be able to get some pretty high mileage out of the current engine. So playing it safe and going with OEM stuff in the engine department, although I use Dayco and after market timing stuff for my fords with good results and half the price.

I wonder how many of these Honda engines get wrecked from improper timing belt changes? I hate timing belts and interference engines and whoever thought it was a good idea, is a dummy...because not many people actually know to change the timing belt on time before it wrecks the engine. They should have a large and bright label on the cover that says !HEY YOU! CHANGE THE TIMING BELT EVRERY 105,000 miles OR YOU WILL BE SPENDING THE NEXT MONTHS CHECKS PUTTING ON A NEW HEAD!!

So now the engine has sucked 569.00 out of me for the new head, head bolts and timing belt. Oh 136.00 for the gasket kit for the engine so that is 705.00 into this engine now. Yikes.

I'm thinking it is true....Japanese cars do cost twice as much in parts....I'm thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I also pin pointed what happened to this engine... it is obvious that the owner broke a timing belt and valves got slapped, because one of the valves had obvious 'slap damage' Piston tops look ok. He also told me it has a new timing blt, water pump ect ect.... I'm thinking he changed the broken belt and due to the now bent valves, it wouldn't run right so he decided to pawn it off on someone else....like me! lmao.

It's ok...I'm not a pro, but I enjoy trying to diagnose and fix problems like this....At least I got a rust free CR-V that is pretty cool.... I'm making it my little hobby project this winter... Gonna get it all like new outside, new paint and put in a modest lift with chunkier tires.... rack on top for the kayak and some nice fog lights. Also keeping an eye out for a low mileage engine and trans mission for a spare or I might just put it in this winter.

I wouldn't of bothered with this rig, but not having any rust is so amazing to me(I'm from upstate new york) and it's the rust capitol, so ....a car this old with no rust is like gold. All I have to do is buff out some dents and replace a right front fender and shoot on a nice coat of original paint. I hve a buddy that owns a large body shop here and already got offered to let me use his shop to do the body on this thing and he'll paint it. The interior is perfect, no rips or sagging seats....just terrible cigarrette smell and some crumbs on the floor. I already shampooed and cleaned the interior and installed the original radio and cd payer back into the dash and it works perfectly. Gonna do another shampooing later and full detail to the interior to make it look really close to new.

I never thought I'd rebuild a Honda, but these old CRV's are pretty dang cool and I like how they drive. Perfect truck to go camping and such with...fishing, Kayaking, ect ect...just perfect.

Can't wait to get it done and I'll now shut up.
 

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Don't worry about showing your enthusiasm for your car. It's nice hearing some one say they like it rather than complaining about it.
If rust free cars are so precious up there, maybe we should think about importing some from SoCal where it hardly ever even rains let alone snows.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Most of the ones up here have some sort of rust damage, hard to find one that isn't. Most of these CRv's people up here buy to run in the snow, so, they get pretty shabby.

My current CRV is my play toy, to mess around with, but I'd like to find a southern example, low miles ect ect....for a nice truck to have around. When I drove my high miler one I have now, I really liked it, a lot...drove real nice and easy to see out of. I know I'd like to get another at some point.

The head is almost here, just one city over.
 
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