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I eyeballed getting the genuine Honda remote starter but, seeing my '09 is 10 years old now and I am not sure how long I'm keeping it, I decided to get an aftermarket remote starter. Per Crutchfield's site, the iDatastart CMHCXA0 was the only one they sold that was compatible.

136683


There are others, but what interested me was that you can use your OEM key fob to remote start the vehicle. I would normally only use this at home--despite the security features, I still do not like leaving it running, unattended, out in public. I also don't want an unsightly antenna glued to the windshield like our other '09.

To use this with my 2009 CR-V, I also had to purchase a wiring T-harness, the iDatastart ADS-THR-HA2.

136680


It looks daunting, but Crutchfield sent me a link to the PDF with installation instructions. Well...not so much installation instructions as a rough guideline of where and how to connect things. Seeing that I was pressed for time and temperatures were below freezing, I was unable to get a video or photos. These kits are made for professional installers so, if you can read a schematic and figure out what it's telling you, you should have no problem installing this kit. Crutchfield seems to be the only way to order one without having to go through an installer (beyond shady eBay sellers).

There are two ways to wire this to the car--there is a hardwire option where you have to wire everything by hand, or the T-harness option which has several connectors you can snap into place. As it turns out, I only had to connect three wires to the vehicle (two for the parking lights, the third for the horn)--the rest were handled by the T-harness.

The hardest part of all this is not installing it, but fitting the wires into the steering column. The smaller wires are fine. It's that big, fat harness causing all the grief--this is the ignition switch harness, and I'm still trying to understand their logic in having the second connector have such a long lead to it. I ended up having to fold it back in on itself further up in the column, and although spacing is very tight, I managed to get all the additional wiring and connectors neatly tucked into the column.

The module itself is small, about the size of a deck of cards, and has several connectors on it for various harnesses. Before using the module, you have to create an account at iDataLink so that you can download the firmware for your vehicle to the module. And once you have the module connected, you need to program it further in the car--one step is to detect the tachometer signal (so it knows if the car is running or not) and also program the takeover procedure (where you insert the key and tap the brake). As you are programming it in the vehicle, a button and two multi-colored LEDs assist you in the process.

The wiring looked daunting because you receive six harnesses, with three of them being nothing but wires. As it turns out, the CR-V only needed three bare wires hooked up--one for the horn, and two for the parking lights. The fourth wire I was supposed to connect was the wire for the hood switch circuit.

I was going to skip doing the hood switch for now--it is a safety feature so that nobody can start the engine while you are working under the hood. And to find it inside the vehicle by the fuse panel, I would have had to remove several harnesses just to remove the fuse panel and find the LT BLU wire to tap into. Not something I wanted to tackle in this weather. Before I decided to start routing wires, I had everything hooked up except for the parking light, horn and hood switch wiring and couldn't get the remote starter to work. Yet the relay was clicking many times. After reading through the checklist, it mentioned that if there is an error with the remote starter system, it will blink the parking lights in a certain sequence as an error code. That was my "a-ha!" moment--I counted the number of clicks coming from the relay (six) and it told me the hood was not latched...which it wasn't. So without even hooking up the wire, the system still detected (via the CAN-BUS?) the status of the hood latch. Closed the hood, and the system worked!

Note that this bypasses the immobilizer, so you do not need to keep a programmed key in the car to use this system.

So it's working fine and all hidden away beneath the dash. I'll need it for the coming icy/snowy/frosty weather where I need to warm it up ahead of time to start chipping ice away.

A couple of notes about some neat features this system has.

First of all, when you are downloading the firmware to your module, you have dozens of options you can choose from. You can choose 5, 10 or 15 minutes runtime when it's started. You can choose the sequence on your OEM key fob--the two choices are LOCK three times quickly, or LOCK, UNLOCK, LOCK three times quickly. I chose the latter. You can also disable it (more on that below). You can choose lock/unlock status during/after starting, the takeover sequence, even program a few security features with the horn. It apparently also has other outputs that can trigger other add-on features, so it is a very flexible programmable system.

Second, this unit can use a separate remote starter key fob with a range up to 3,000 ft., available through purchase of the antenna module (which includes two remotes). There are four choices of remotes, 1-way or 2-way in both 1-button and 5-button versions. There is also an LCD remote that offers feedback on your vehicle from a distance and per the description, has a range up to a mile. I may still opt for one of the long-range remotes in the future.

136688


It also seems to support third party systems that let you control and monitor your vehicle via smartphone (MyCar, Drone Mobile, SmartStart, Orbit Pro, etc.).

It does have an optional temperature sensor, but they are available only to installers in a pack of ten. This would enable a few automatic features. I only wish it could work with the climate controls, since trying to remember to always turn the system on HI or LO when leaving the car is something I forget often.

Nice system so far! And very flexible.
 

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I eyeballed getting the genuine Honda remote starter but, seeing my '09 is 10 years old now and I am not sure how long I'm keeping it, I decided to get an aftermarket remote starter. Per Crutchfield's site, the iDatastart CMHCXA0 was the only one they sold that was compatible.

View attachment 136683

There are others, but what interested me was that you can use your OEM key fob to remote start the vehicle. I would normally only use this at home--despite the security features, I still do not like leaving it running, unattended, out in public. I also don't want an unsightly antenna glued to the windshield like our other '09.

To use this with my 2009 CR-V, I also had to purchase a wiring T-harness, the iDatastart ADS-THR-HA2.

View attachment 136680

It looks daunting, but Crutchfield sent me a link to the PDF with installation instructions. Well...not so much installation instructions as a rough guideline of where and how to connect things. Seeing that I was pressed for time and temperatures were below freezing, I was unable to get a video or photos. These kits are made for professional installers so, if you can read a schematic and figure out what it's telling you, you should have no problem installing this kit. Crutchfield seems to be the only way to order one without having to go through an installer (beyond shady eBay sellers).

There are two ways to wire this to the car--there is a hardwire option where you have to wire everything by hand, or the T-harness option which has several connectors you can snap into place. As it turns out, I only had to connect three wires to the vehicle (two for the parking lights, the third for the horn)--the rest were handled by the T-harness.

The hardest part of all this is not installing it, but fitting the wires into the steering column. The smaller wires are fine. It's that big, fat harness causing all the grief--this is the ignition switch harness, and I'm still trying to understand their logic in having the second connector have such a long lead to it. I ended up having to fold it back in on itself further up in the column, and although spacing is very tight, I managed to get all the additional wiring and connectors neatly tucked into the column.

The module itself is small, about the size of a deck of cards, and has several connectors on it for various harnesses. Before using the module, you have to create an account at iDataLink so that you can download the firmware for your vehicle to the module. And once you have the module connected, you need to program it further in the car--one step is to detect the tachometer signal (so it knows if the car is running or not) and also program the takeover procedure (where you insert the key and tap the brake). As you are programming it in the vehicle, a button and two multi-colored LEDs assist you in the process.

The wiring looked daunting because you receive six harnesses, with three of them being nothing but wires. As it turns out, the CR-V only needed three bare wires hooked up--one for the horn, and two for the parking lights. The fourth wire I was supposed to connect was the wire for the hood switch circuit.

I was going to skip doing the hood switch for now--it is a safety feature so that nobody can start the engine while you are working under the hood. And to find it inside the vehicle by the fuse panel, I would have had to remove several harnesses just to remove the fuse panel and find the LT BLU wire to tap into. Not something I wanted to tackle in this weather. Before I decided to start routing wires, I had everything hooked up except for the parking light, horn and hood switch wiring and couldn't get the remote starter to work. Yet the relay was clicking many times. After reading through the checklist, it mentioned that if there is an error with the remote starter system, it will blink the parking lights in a certain sequence as an error code. That was my "a-ha!" moment--I counted the number of clicks coming from the relay (six) and it told me the hood was not latched...which it wasn't. So without even hooking up the wire, the system still detected (via the CAN-BUS?) the status of the hood latch. Closed the hood, and the system worked!

Note that this bypasses the immobilizer, so you do not need to keep a programmed key in the car to use this system.

So it's working fine and all hidden away beneath the dash. I'll need it for the coming icy/snowy/frosty weather where I need to warm it up ahead of time to start chipping ice away.

A couple of notes about some neat features this system has.

First of all, when you are downloading the firmware to your module, you have dozens of options you can choose from. You can choose 5, 10 or 15 minutes runtime when it's started. You can choose the sequence on your OEM key fob--the two choices are LOCK three times quickly, or LOCK, UNLOCK, LOCK three times quickly. I chose the latter. You can also disable it (more on that below). You can choose lock/unlock status during/after starting, the takeover sequence, even program a few security features with the horn. It apparently also has other outputs that can trigger other add-on features, so it is a very flexible programmable system.

Second, this unit can use a separate remote starter key fob with a range up to 3,000 ft., available through purchase of the antenna module (which includes two remotes). There are four choices of remotes, 1-way or 2-way in both 1-button and 5-button versions. There is also an LCD remote that offers feedback on your vehicle from a distance and per the description, has a range up to a mile. I may still opt for one of the long-range remotes in the future.

View attachment 136688

It also seems to support third party systems that let you control and monitor your vehicle via smartphone (MyCar, Drone Mobile, SmartStart, Orbit Pro, etc.).

It does have an optional temperature sensor, but they are available only to installers in a pack of ten. This would enable a few automatic features. I only wish it could work with the climate controls, since trying to remember to always turn the system on HI or LO when leaving the car is something I forget often.

Nice system so far! And very flexible.
Hello,

Can you tell me the connector you "T'd" into or it's location, color and terminal count?

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello,

Can you tell me the connector you "T'd" into or it's location, color and terminal count?

Cheers!
The heavy harness with the reddish brown connectors is for the ignition switch. In the upper left, you'll see two green connectors on that smaller harness--those are connected to T into the immobilizer (a white connector). Both are in the steering column. Other than that, I tapped into two of the wires at the light switch for the parking lights (an orange and a blue in the CR-V) using inline taps, and the same is done with the wire for the horn (can't recall the color, but that one goes to the cable reel).

Packing that fat harness into the steering column is the worst of it.
 

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The heavy harness with the reddish brown connectors is for the ignition switch. In the upper left, you'll see two green connectors on that smaller harness--those are connected to T into the immobilizer (a white connector). Both are in the steering column. Other than that, I tapped into two of the wires at the light switch for the parking lights (an orange and a blue in the CR-V) using inline taps, and the same is done with the wire for the horn (can't recall the color, but that one goes to the cable reel).

Packing that fat harness into the steering column is the worst of it.
Hello

The aftermarket unit is pulling the Hood Switch information off the B-CAN Bus which is Terminal No. 4, PNK of the Immobilizer-Keyless Control Unit.

The Hood Switch status is monitored by the MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit).

The Hood Switch information is provided on the B-CAN bus by the MICU.

SmartSelect_20191213-225220_Chrome.jpg


SmartSelect_20191213-225022_Chrome.jpg

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ended up adding a set of remotes for the starter, RF2352AC. This plugs into the RF port on the bottom of the main module, and the antenna can be mounted in a number of places, including the top of the windshield (if the cable is long enough--I haven't checked). For now, the antenna is tucked under the dash--the range won't be the best, but it will still exceed the range of the key fob remote by a substantial amount.

One nice feature is that if you have the same remote start in two vehicles, you can program your remote to work on both of them. A couple taps on a function button the side switches you to the second vehicle to control it.

Since we're heading out for some cold winter activities, I figured having half a mile of range would be helpful. I'll have this on a quick-disconnect keychain so I don't have to carry the remote around all the time. I got the two-way remote, and it gives confirmation (via blue LED and a beep) that the vehicle received the signal and acted on it. It also briefly flashes all four LEDs when the engine is running. The remote has door lock/unlock. This is great since I can be sure the car is locked. Memory ain't what it used to be!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The 2-way remotes work really nice. One beep when you hold down the start button, and four beeps as a confirmation after it starts. Each of the front four buttons has an LED next to it, and all four of these will flash very briefly as long as the engine is running. As time goes on, fewer LEDs will flash--this tells you how long the engine has been running (basically, 4/4, 3/4, 2/4 and 1/4 the time remaining).

I just ordered the optional in-cabin temperature sensor, as this will enable more features, like automatically turning on the defrosters once the temperature drops below the threshold I set. I don't think it can yet turn on the AC or heat (not sure if those are run on the CANbus or not, or if the firmware for the iDataStart module can control it yet). The temperature sensor is hard to get ahold of--they are usually sold only to installers, and in packs of ten. I found a seller in Canada who sells them individually.
 
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