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Didnt want to bump an ancient threads, ive seen a few on here for first gens and one for 2nd gens like mine saying you could remove the driveshaft and drive the vehicle.

Just not 100% sure if the shaft is needed to turn an oil pump or clutch pack etc since i dont really know what all that means


https://www.crvownersclub.com/forum...721-2005-crv-awd-remove-rear-drive-shaft.html

Using my tahoe to pull 2600 miles when I move.

Reddit thread i made:

https://www.reddit.com/r/crv/comments/a6f00b/towing_2006_awd_with_dolly/
 

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do not pull the driveshaft. Must be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground or on a full trailer, CANNOT tow just back wheels down (unless it's the front wheel drive model, not the 4wd)

Get your owners manual out and follow the directions.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I tow my 200,6 4 wheels down, behind my motorhome. The instructions on the proper procedure are in the owners manual. Follow the instructions EXACTLY.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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Yes, flat towing is best (and easiest). If you don't want to do that, rent a car trailer from a place like UHaul. (Theirs have the proper trailer brakes, etc)



But, it's true that you can remove the driveshaft (being careful to support the center bearing) and drive the V in FWD mode.

With the driveshaft (AKA propshaft) removed, the Dual Pump in the differential will not operate. It works via different speeds between the driveshaft speed and rear wheel speed.
 

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Something to consider, the Tahoe weighs around 5,500 pounds and the CRV weighs 3,500 or about 60% of the Tahoe's weight. Can your Tahoe safely tow a un-braked load that weighs 3,500 pounds?

I towed a 2009 CR-V for over 60,000 miles 4 down behind my motorhome, and we currently tow a 2014 CR-V but the motorhome weighs 30,000 pounds and I have a device that activates the CR-V's brakes whenever I am stopping.

If this is a one time event for you, I would highly recommend a flat bed trailer w/brakes to haul the CR-V.
 
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