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1998 Honda CR-V LX
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heyo, so it’s been a wild ride over the last couple of weeks. Three days after we got the car, she went missing. Yesterday, she turned up a handful of miles away. The catalytic converter is gone, the stereo unit is gone (photo below), and the floor mats are gone.

Four questions:
  1. Any catalytic converter replacement recommendations? I’m not exactly sure how or where it was removed on the pipes. We’ve been quoted a max of $1,600 from a very reputable local shop for the replacement.
  2. Stereo unit replacement recommendations? My current plan is to hop on junkyard notifications and wait for a 1st gen CR-V to come up to source the whole unit. Unless there’s a good aftermarket replacement?
  3. Any rubber floor mats you love? We’re located in a very rainy climate, so figured it’s a good time to just upgrade to rubber mats instead of carpet.
  4. Also, any security measures you take? We have a wheel lock on now and are looking into purchasing a Tile or Airtag to hide in the car. have heard a kill switch is a good idea too.

Thanks a bunch for the help. Very excited to have her back at home. :)

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Radio Steering part


Edit: Typo
 

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1999 CRV Lx
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741 Posts
If you live in a state where you need to have a certified catalitic converter you will probably $$ for it.
If not in such state shop around. I'm sure you will fix it for lot less than that.
Things would be cheaper if you already own a welder.

If you are going for basic radio make sure to get speakers that match the head unit specs.
Better sound involves adding wires and more stuff. If you want more power open another thread just for the audio system. Answers can be a bit more detailed over there.

Definitely go with a kill switch, BUT make sure that activating it doesn't involve turning around or doing any movement that gives away its position.
 

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Can't believe someone would steal a 1st gen CRV LOL. I've rebuilt and replaced like 80% percent of the stuff on my 97 CRV. I changed most of my exhaust system after it was rusting out and falling apart ( the broken catalytic converter was clogging up the pipes as well as causing an over heat condition. I can give you part numbers and advice on this if you want, it's really easy to replace.

I'll post the non CA diagram pieces for the exhaust system. CA uses a few different pieces on the system.

Font Line Parallel Slope Triangle

Product Font Organism Parallel Slope


I used the "Northeastern Exhaust" stainless steel exhaust kit from eBay, then for my Catalytic Converter I used "AP / EASTERN 642732" from RockAuto, then the muffler I went with "WALKER 52203" , which was also from RockAuto. Some of the hardware I bought from Honda, although the kit from eBay comes with exhaust gaskets that DO seal correctly (it's what I ended up using on my car). I think if I remember the studs on the converter facing the muffler had no aftermarket, so I had to go Honda for that.

For the O2 sensors I used DENSO 2344098 (Downstream sensor), and DENSO 2344011 (Upstream sensor). I added ant seize when installing the exhuast hardware in case it needed to be removed in the future.

Now my car was a salvage given to me for free by family (it needed A LOT of work, I think it came from the junkyard), so it was already missing it's driveshaft. That exhaust pipe kit I bought from eBay seems be blocking where the driveshaft would go if I had one on there. So you may want to make sure whatever pipe kit you buy that it will clear that shaft first, or you can mod the pipe so it fits correctly. They sell other kits on RockAuto, but I don't think any of them were Stainless Steel which is what I personally wanted.

Felpro should have you covered for most of the gaskets if your're missing any, and there's a lot of aftermarket options for your rubber exhaust hangers. Now if you're staying with your stock exhaust pipe, the aftermarket hangers don't fit correctly. They were causing my stock pipe to hit my car back when I still had the original pipes. So in that case I would stick with stock.

I'll post some photos later today of my current Exhaust system so you can see how it should look, and if you have any questions let me know.

It shouldn't cost you anywhere near $1600 to do this, but you do need the correct tools. You also want to torque all the nuts properly as you don't want any exhaust leaks.
 

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Can't believe someone would steal a 1st gen CRV LOL. I've rebuilt and replaced like 80% percent of the stuff on my 97 CRV. I changed most of my exhaust system after it was rusting out and falling apart ( the broken catalytic converter was clogging up the pipes as well as causing an over heat condition. I can give you part numbers and advice on this if you want, it's really easy to replace.

I'll post the non CA diagram pieces for the exhaust system. CA uses a few different pieces on the system.

View attachment 151702
View attachment 151703

I used the "Northeastern Exhaust" stainless steel exhaust kit from eBay, then for my Catalytic Converter I used "AP / EASTERN 642732" from RockAuto, then the muffler I went with "WALKER 52203" , which was also from RockAuto. Some of the hardware I bought from Honda, although the kit from eBay comes with exhaust gaskets that DO seal correctly (it's what I ended up using on my car). I think if I remember the studs on the converter facing the muffler had no aftermarket, so I had to go Honda for that.

For the O2 sensors I used DENSO 2344098 (Downstream sensor), and DENSO 2344011 (Upstream sensor). I added ant seize when installing the exhuast hardware in case it needed to be removed in the future.

Now my car was a salvage given to me for free by family (it needed A LOT of work, I think it came from the junkyard), so it was already missing it's driveshaft. That exhaust pipe kit I bought from eBay seems be blocking where the driveshaft would go if I had one on there. So you may want to make sure whatever pipe kit you buy that it will clear that shaft first, or you can mod the pipe so it fits correctly. They sell other kits on RockAuto, but I don't think any of them were Stainless Steel which is what I personally wanted.

Felpro should have you covered for most of the gaskets if your're missing any, and there's a lot of aftermarket options for your rubber exhaust hangers. Now if you're staying with your stock exhaust pipe, the aftermarket hangers don't fit correctly. They were causing my stock pipe to hit my car back when I still had the original pipes. So in that case I would stick with stock.

I'll post some photos later today of my current Exhaust system so you can see how it should look, and if you have any questions let me know.

It shouldn't cost you anywhere near $1600 to do this, but you do need the correct tools. You also want to torque all the nuts properly as you don't want any exhaust leaks.
nice post. I wanted a stainless exhaust when I had to replace mine but could t find one that fit and just went with a local shop bending up some pipe and welding it to the muffler. I know that weld is going to rust out in a couple of years.
 

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1998 Honda CR-V LX
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Can't believe someone would steal a 1st gen CRV LOL. I've rebuilt and replaced like 80% percent of the stuff on my 97 CRV. I changed most of my exhaust system after it was rusting out and falling apart ( the broken catalytic converter was clogging up the pipes as well as causing an over heat condition. I can give you part numbers and advice on this if you want, it's really easy to replace.

I'll post the non CA diagram pieces for the exhaust system. CA uses a few different pieces on the system.

View attachment 151702
View attachment 151703

I used the "Northeastern Exhaust" stainless steel exhaust kit from eBay, then for my Catalytic Converter I used "AP / EASTERN 642732" from RockAuto, then the muffler I went with "WALKER 52203" , which was also from RockAuto. Some of the hardware I bought from Honda, although the kit from eBay comes with exhaust gaskets that DO seal correctly (it's what I ended up using on my car). I think if I remember the studs on the converter facing the muffler had no aftermarket, so I had to go Honda for that.

For the O2 sensors I used DENSO 2344098 (Downstream sensor), and DENSO 2344011 (Upstream sensor). I added ant seize when installing the exhuast hardware in case it needed to be removed in the future.

Now my car was a salvage given to me for free by family (it needed A LOT of work, I think it came from the junkyard), so it was already missing it's driveshaft. That exhaust pipe kit I bought from eBay seems be blocking where the driveshaft would go if I had one on there. So you may want to make sure whatever pipe kit you buy that it will clear that shaft first, or you can mod the pipe so it fits correctly. They sell other kits on RockAuto, but I don't think any of them were Stainless Steel which is what I personally wanted.

Felpro should have you covered for most of the gaskets if your're missing any, and there's a lot of aftermarket options for your rubber exhaust hangers. Now if you're staying with your stock exhaust pipe, the aftermarket hangers don't fit correctly. They were causing my stock pipe to hit my car back when I still had the original pipes. So in that case I would stick with stock.

I'll post some photos later today of my current Exhaust system so you can see how it should look, and if you have any questions let me know.

It shouldn't cost you anywhere near $1600 to do this, but you do need the correct tools. You also want to torque all the nuts properly as you don't want any exhaust leaks.
Wow yeah this is awesome info, thanks for this. Looks like the front attachment for the catalytic converter is no prob (image 1), but the back one is the big issue (image 2) as they cut in between the catalytic converter and Exhaust Pipe B in your diagram. If it was a bolt-on situation, I’d definitely consider replacing myself, but the thought of welding exhaust pipes makes me nervous 😅

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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From what it looks if they didn't cut the Radio connection then just getting a replacement unit would be good or get a new pig tail and put a custom unit in. As the Cat it's good they cut after the front connection but the back well the second O2 wiring your going to have to get that fixed and then buy the complete back exhaust or have a shop redo and repair it back. You don't have much choice here.
 

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1999 CRV Lx
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Look closely to the pipe going back to the resonator, you need to remove that inner piece or the rattle will drive you crazy.

You need to cut that bracket at the front of the resonator and cut the outer pipe, at around 1.5" front of the resonator inlet. You will notice the size difference of the pipe coming into the resonator, cut at the biggest side.
then slide the inner pipe out. Now weld the pipe to the resonator and then weld the bracket back to its original position.

I bought a welder to do that job specifically but I have fixed few things here and there, yup I got paid for it and now the welder is basically free and making me $$.
 

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This is EZ repair from what I see, you still have your upstream O2 Sensor intact, and your downstream is located on the end of the Catalytic Converter itself. If you want to skip welding any pipe then you can purchase the premade exhaust kits I mentioned earlier. For example this is what I installed on my CRV after my original pipes broke down internally , and would be the cheapest option to replace what your missing besides the converter.
Product Font Rectangle Parallel Screenshot
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Circle


I took photos of this kit that is currently on my 97 CRV so you can see how it looks.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Wheel Fender

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Car

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

How much of your Downstream wire did they cut? That O2 wire leads to a plastic grommet in the cars body which hides the connector. Is your downstream O2 female connector still intact? Take out your plastic grommet and check what wiring you have left.

Also, if you install these pipes with a bit longer rubber hangers it should give it enough clearance for the driveshaft.
 

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2001 Crv SE
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Looks like it is actually still plugged in and they ripped the wires out... Scumbags...

Catalytic converter is about 100 bucks on ebay, amazon, many other places. I wouldn't spend big money on one that's for sure.

Radio really just depends how much you want to spend.I think the factory radios probably had a lockout code. Someone else may know for sure. If they do, and you get a factory junkyard radio, make sure you have that code. Probably easier at this point to get an aftermarket radio and dash kit.
 
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