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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all! I just finished replacing the rear door speakers of my 08-V with aftermarket ones. Just in case anyone's interested, I've posted some pics of the process.
View attachment 2907 \
First, I removed the sail panel (at the back), which sits on top of the door panel. I used a flat head screwdriver and a towel to avoid scratching it. I started prying on top and move down carefully.
Next, I removed the screws that hold the door panel; there are two by the door pull handle, two by the door release handle, and one in the door pull cup. You need to remove the plastic covers with a small, flathead screwdriver, first. Be sure to keep all the pieces in one place and try to remember where you pull the screws from, since they're different lengths.
View attachment 2911
Then I removed the door panel by prying it off with a special tool and a towel. I started from the bottom, just in case the door gets scratched it won't be very visible. I moved in a counter clockwise position around the panel with the tool--for no particular reason--but I did it very carefully. I followed someone's advise to cover the tool with duct tape but even so I was afraid the tool would scratch the paint job of the door; that's why I used a small, thin towel to cover the tool. When you're done prying off the clips from the door panel, the panel just hangs on top of the door's edge. All you need to do is pull it up.
View attachment 2916
Detach the power harness and loosen both the door lock and release cables. In this picture I turned the panel upside down to show both. There're a couple of plastic clips that hold both cables respectively. Pry them off with a small, flathead screwdriver and then remove the cables from their sitting place--carefully. You don't need to remove the lock and release cables completely from the panel but you need to sit the panel on top of a box or something and keep it near the door (obviously) so it won't get damaged. Also, make sure the cables are not being too tense so as to possibly damage the locking mechanism. This previous is not as hard as it seems but I found out (the hard way) that removing both cables was a pain in the pattutie, so I'd avoid it altogether if I can. You do need to remove the power harness though, but that's piece of cake. All you have to do is push the small, plastic latch on the bottom and pull it out.
View attachment 2913
Once the stuck speaker is exposed, remove the top (and only) screw that holds it with a phillips screwdriver. Then push the speaker up (hard) to release it. Disconnect the cable harness--do not discard the speakers; they sell well on ebay ;)
Rear_Door_Speakers (27).JPG
I was able to get a speaker wire harness from Crutchfield, which fit the CR-V harness like a glove! I also mounted the speaker on a adapter bracket from Crutchfield, which wasn't essential but gave the install a cleaner look. You do have to drill 4 holes with a 1/8" drill bit though, and then attach the speaker bracket with 4 sheet screws--provided with the adapter. By the way, Crutchfield limits the size of the opening to 5.25" speakers only. The reason being is that Honda designed the hole to match the silly shape of the factory speakers mount (which is sort of triangular). That makes for a 4.5" diameter hole more or less. If you'd want to install 6" or 6.25" speaker you'd have to hack the two "bumps" that keep the speaker hole from being completely round--look at the picture. To hack them use a metal cutting saw, slip it in the two rectangular, bottom holes and work your way up or sideways. You may use a small hacksaw and start cutting from the outter edge of the speaker hole. I did that with the front doors and it's not as difficult as it sounds. I believe, however, there are other alternatives to hacking off the bumps such as speaker brackets, etc., but I just didn't try them. There is a model of those brackets out there, but they're designed specifically for 2nd gen CR-Vs, so I didn't want to run the risk of not being able to fit my 3rd gen. Plus it saves you some $$. You also need to remove the top, white clip that holds the factory speaker screw.
View attachment 2915
The speaker mounting is complete! Test the speaker to make sure it works properly. Replace the door panel in the reverse order of its removal. Reconnect the power harness first, then the door lock and release cables along with their holding clips. Hang the panel back on top of the door's edge and carefully start pushing it forward to attach the clips again--one at the time in a clockwise motion along the panel. Next, replace all the screws (being careful to match the correct size for each--especially the two door handle ones, which are longer--and of different color). Put back screws covers too. Remember to replace the small sail panel also, which is the very last item. Finally, test the windows and locks to make sure everything works propely.
Oh, be careful with the gooey paste that holds the white plastic cover (between the door and panel). It really stains and smears the panels!
Enjoy your new speakers :D
 

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Nice work, but more info on the panels would be good for anyone attempting this on a gen3, also, clean the whole DIY up a bit, add a bit more about the panels. I.E. Where you started prying, etc... and I will add this to the DIY center as a historical document for all those searching Google on how to do this to find...



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I just cleaned up the DIY info. I have a few more pictures that show the process more carefully. It's too bad that I'm restricted to only 6 of them. Check if the new info works. Thanks!
 

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I just cleaned up the DIY info. I have a few more pictures that show the process more carefully. It's too bad that I'm restricted to only 6 of them. Check if the new info works. Thanks!
It sounds good. The way to remedy that 6 picture thing is to make multiple posts, sometimes people write a DIY into 3-5 posts just to fit the pictures. If you want to spread your info out, and include more pictures, by al means do it. It only makes it better.



 

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Norbac,

Nice writeup!

So if i'm not wrong you installed Kenwoods KFC-1362S.
Can you comment on them....
Sound quality with them on your setup...you still have the stock HU, right?

I read a couple of reviews of people very disappointed specially with the low frecuencies....something close to "boxy" sounding bass
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kenwood KFC-1362S speakers

Yes, you're right on the money Hidalgo! I decided to install the KFCs on the rear doors because of their (small) size. I went with JL Audio C2-600X on the front doors. But to tell you the truth, the Kenwoods sound better. I had read mixed reviews for the Kenwood speakers on Crutchfield.com, but since they fit my car without special mounting gear and were 3-way, I decided to take a shot at them. I was very surprised at the great quality sound they deliver--even the bass is clean and surprisingly powerful. Now, they won't blow your windows out but you can definitely hear the difference between these and the stock speakers. One of the things I liked about these speakers is that they're rated at 91 dB, which is pretty loud for a 5 1/4 speaker! I also like the fact that they have an RMS rating between 2-28 watts, with a 150 max, so they won't blow out even if they're hooked up to a decent size amp. Again, the bass is pretty good in my opinion. I guess some of the negative reviews I read came from people with rather larger SUVs, which I guess might affect the accoustics significantly. In a small SUV, like the CR-V, the accoustics is more pronounced with small to medium speakers. Sorry for the long answer dude.
Yes, I still have the factory head unit with me but not in the car. I think I'm going to put it for sale on ebay. It's the deluxe one (with XM radio, 6 disc changer, 270 watts, etc.). I just replaced it with a Kenwood KDC-HD924U, which also makes a huge difference when paired up with the aftermarket speakers I have on now. I'll post the pictures of the HU installation soon. Also, this weekend I'm going to install a sub and amp to replace the silly sub system that Honda puts under the seat--I'll post the pics as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Replacing rear door speakers on 08 V (Part II)

Hi,
Thank you for letting me know how to overcome the 6 pic limitation on this forum! Here's more pictures of my installation. Enjoy!
View attachment 2951
Here's a picture of the door handle bottom screw hole. It's one of 5 screws that must be removed from the door panel prior to prying it off. All 5 screws are removed with a Phillips type screwdriver.
View attachment 2952
This is the door panel prying tool. I covered it with duct tape to avoid scratching the paint job but even so I used an additional shop towel on top of it to pry off the door panel (see part I of installation).
View attachment 2953
You're looking at the door lock and release cable clips (upside down). You must push those outwards and swing them to the left (as from the pic point of view) with a small flathead screwdriver. You must to this AFTER unplugging the door panel electrical harness. I did not remove the cables completely, instead I decided to hang the door panel and keep it near the door.
View attachment 2954
Here I've got the door panel just resting on a box. The panel is not really hanging from the door lock/release cables, since that could cause damage to the locking mechanism. Notice that the speaker is completely exposed so I didn't have the need to remove the door panel altogether.
View attachment 2955
This is the special speaker wire harness that came with my new aftermarkets (courtesy of Crutchfield--sorry about the shameless plug). This harness is essential to connecting the aftermarket speakers, for it prevents cutting into the factory wires. The harness fits like a glove, by the way.
View attachment 2956
Also, notice the mounting plate that I used for the speakers. It's certainly not the best out there and the speakers (5 1/4") barely fit, so if you could get a more decent one go for it. There is a mounting bracket in the market that is specific for 2nd gen CR-Vs (2002-2006), but I found out it also fits 3rd gens on both ends of the doors (front and rear)--all you have to do is drill a couple of holes to make it fit! It's a great alternative to hacking off the bumps alongside the speaker holes. It provides a higher mounting position to make the back cones of even 6 1/2" speakers fit. I'll post more pics on part III of this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Replacing rear door factory speakers on 08 V (part III)

Well, finally these are the last pictures of the entire rear door speaker installation!
View attachment 2957
With a hole marking tool for metals and a hammer make a small dent on the exact spot where you're going to drill the holes to fit the speaker mounting bracket. Mark the spots first with a black marker.
View attachment 2958
Drill 4 holes with a 1/8" drill bit (depending on the type of screws you're going to use--follow the speaker manufacturer's particular instructions).
View attachment 2959
The speaker (on its bracket) is ready to be mounted on the door. Notice the drilled holes on the door are kindda far away from the original speaker hole.
View attachment 2960
The speaker is finally mounted! Watch out for the door panel clip holes--make sure the new speaker/bracket is not blocking those holes.
View attachment 2961
This is the gooey paste I warned you about on part I when removing the door panels. It holds the plastic seal but it's not very stable. It could really stain the panel or other parts of your car if you're not careful--take it from me; I learned it the hard way :(
View attachment 2962
In order to put the panel back on the door, hang it first from the edge between the door and the window. Once the panel is hanging, start pushing the panel against the door in a clockwise (or counter clockwise) motion, as you hear the clips snapping back onto the door one by one. Finally, don't forget to install the sail panel. A WORD OF CAUTION: When removing the door panels, make sure the clips remain attached to the plastic panel and not the door itself. This is important when putting the panel back on. If one (or more clips) remains attached to the door the panel won't snap shut on that particular spot. If you noticed that one (or more clips) is attached to the door, simply remove it and snap it back onto the panel even before starting to install the panel back on.
 

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...There is a mounting bracket in the market that is specific for 2nd gen CR-Vs (2002-2006), but I found out it also fits 3rd gens on both ends of the doors (front and rear)...
First of all I would like to give a BIG thanks to you norbac for taking the time and effort on documenting your installs. It is VERY informative and helpful! I was wondering where can I get the mounting bracket that you are talking about in the quote above. I've googled it and have not seen anything. Do you know the part # and website where I can get it? Thanks!
 

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This needs to be a sticky also! Great post. Thanks Norbac.

Note that the door handle is actually held in to the door panel by 3 clips and can simply be pushed out. No need to mess with the door lock cables.

It even has a answer to a question I recently posted asking about the speaker adapter used for gen2 fitting in gen3.

I believe norbac is referring to the Scosche SAH6 used in this thread - http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=9033
 

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Installing 6.5" component speakers in front doors

As an addendum to norbac's posts, I will describe how to install 6.5" component speakers in the front doors of the 2007-2011 CR-V. If you are installing coaxial speakers, you can skip the "installing tweeters" and "mounting crossovers" sections and wire up the speakers from within each door.
Removing door panels and speakers:
Instructions (with detailed diagrams) showing how to remove door panels and speakers are in steps 34-39 of this PDF file...
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/crv/2011/basssystem.pdf. Even though the instructions describe removing the rear door panels and speakers, it also applies to the front as well.
Door panel removed...

Notes:
- use a thin flat blade screwdriver to remove screw covers; wrap blade with electrical tape to prevent scratching plastic; keep track of which door screws go where since they are different
- use nylon panel/trim removal tools to prevent scratching plastic panel and door paint or wrap a metal tool with tape; begin prying door panel from bottom rear corner since there is a small lip there that you can slip your fingertips underneath to begin lifting off the panel

Installing door speakers:
Front door speaker opening (use pliers to remove speaker clip from door panel)...

Installing most speakers in the front door will practically require the use of a spacer ring. This will avoid the speaker's frame contacting the "bumps" around the speaker opening as well as the speaker's magnet hitting the windows when they are fully rolled down. With the rear doors, the window doesn't go all the way down behind the speaker, so this is not an issue (you still have to contend with the bumps on the speaker opening). I measured the distance from the surface of the door to the window glass to be 1 7/8", so select speakers with a top mount depth (subtract spacer thickness) that is less than this distance. For example, the Polk db6501 component speakers I installed have a top mount depth of 2" (relatively shallow), and with the included 5/16" thick spacer, there is plenty of clearance. The deeper the speaker's top mount depth, the thicker the spacer you will need. I also would not use a spacer thicker than 3/4" since anything thicker will interfere with you getting the door panel back on.
Dry fit speaker+spacer onto door before marking and drilling 1/8" mounting holes. You will likely have to rotate the speaker around in order to have the speaker frame clear the "bumps" on the speaker opening.
I applied poster putty to the back of the spacers to better couple them to the mounting surface as well as adding mass to the plastic. I also broke off the unused tabs (kept one for top orientation purposes)..

Spacer installed. New speaker harness adapter and wires also shown (see "wiring" section below). I also applied Dynamat Xtreme and DynaXorb...

Door speaker installed (again, had to rotate it slightly around to clear the "bumps" which is why the logo is crooked)...

Notes:
- Roll the window all the way down before installing speakers to confirm clearance with speaker magnet.
- If installing coaxial speakers, make sure the tweeters clears the speaker grill of the door panel.

Installing tweeters:
Pry off tweeter cover and disconnect plug...

I chose to mount the new tweeters in the factory dash locations. Detach factory tweeter from cover (it is snapped in).
I used 3M molding tape to attach new tweeters to the backside of covers...

Notes:
- The tweeter covers are attached to the dash EXTREMELY tight. If you were to try to pry them off with a regular screwdriver, you WILL severely gouge up your dash and cover, even if you covered everything with tape in an attempt to protect the plastic. On the passenger side, you can actually reach from underneath the dash and push the cover out from behind (remove black panel underneath dash first). However, on the driver's side, the tweeter's are practically inaccessible from underneath due to all the electrical components installed in that area. I wound up prying the driver side cover with a modified screwdriver on my Swiss Army knife that has been grounded down thin with smooth rounded edges. Even then, it still slightly scuffed the plastic trim. I found out the hard way that the trim panel around the tweeter cover is actually PAINTED flat black plastic which scuffs pretty easilly. I recommend trying nylon trim removal tools and wrapping them and covering the trim with a layer of clear packing tape.
- I used a Dremel tool to grind down the white tabs on the tweeter covers to make them easier to remove in the future.
- I left the factory tweeter wiring alone and just tucked them away.
- If you have an LX and choose to mount the new tweeters in the dash, you will have to buy new tweeter covers from the EX model. I guess you could also grind out a hole and surface mount the tweeter onto the LX cover or mount the tweeters elsewhere altogether (e.g. on the door panel).

Wiring:
I am still using the factory headunit to power the component speakers so this is how I did the wiring. I used speaker harness adapters (Metra 72-7800) so I don't have to cut anywhere into the factory speaker wiring. The harness adapter plugs right into the factory speaker plug inside the door. I extended the adapter's wires and ran the wires out the door and to the crossover mounted inside the car. From the crossover, another set of wires ran back into the door and to the door speaker. I used a straighten out clothes hanger to help run the wires through the rubber boot as described HERE. The tweeter wires were ran directly to the crossover.

Notes:
- if installing an external amp, you don't need speaker harness adapters; run the speaker wires from the amp directly to the new door speakers.
- if installing coaxial speakers, you will connect the wires from the speaker harness adapter directly to the speakers. If you have factory tweeters in the dash, you will want to disconnect them so you won't have 4 tweeters running at the same time.

Mounting crossovers:
There are many options as to where to mount the crossover units of the component speakers.

I mounted the right-side crossover in an area above the passenger kick panel...

There is a "J-shaped" metal frame inside the left side of the dash; I mounted the left-side crossover flat inside this "J"...

Notes:
- I used industrial strength adhesive-backed Velcro to secure the crossovers in place.
- I covered the speaker wires with 1/2" wire loom for a neater look.
- To access both areas above, remove the black panels underneath the driver and passenger sides of the dash (they easily pop off).

I also strongly recommend sound dampening the doors with Dynamat Xtreme or similar material. This will greatly reduce panel vibrations and improve bass response from the new speakers. Click HERE for instructions.

I later installed a JL Audio sub and compact amp. See this post for details...
http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=95627&postcount=1
 

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Awesome stuff

Thank you very much guys for posting this stuff, i just finished installing new speakers in my 2010 crv using this info. Also i didnt need a tool to take off the door panels i just grabbed it by the storage thingy on the bottom and the whole thing just pops right off.
 

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Thanks to the tips here I tackled my 2011 CRV stereo this weekend.
I was able to install 6.5" Hybrid Audio Technologies "Clarus" model speakers in the front doors.
They are very very beefy speakers with a depth of just over 3".
I used MDF ring/spacers that were just shy of 1" thick... maybe 3/4 or so?
I used the spacers as templates to draw a circle on the door sheet metal.
This circle followed the upper edge of the factory cutout which resulted in the lower "tabs" of metal to be cut away. A great tool for this job is an air body saw... But a jig saw will do.
The mdf rings themselves had to be modified to fit the speaker baskets... I used a router to widen/arc the innermost area on one side- the side that contacts the back of the mounting flange.

I put some deadening in the doors and cut little strips and lined the circumfurence of the metal hole to help seal and give a touch more space between the speaker and the door.

To run the speaker wires into the door i poked a hole in the rubber duct at each end so the speaker wire is exposed. I tried to make the hole for the wire as small as possible, but also used some butyl rubber putty aka dum dum putty to shmear and patch where i got a little rough with the coat hanger/snake.

The door panels werent going to fit so i dremeled off the large thin band that helped duct the sound out from behind the door panels on the old stock speakers. I may go back in and add a ring of foam around the speakers to acccomplish the same thing at some point. I also found that the lower two clips for the door panel were unable to snap in owing to the mdf rings being in the way. They didnt obscure the holes, just competed for space with the "legs" that support the snaps. So i cut back into the legs, but retained the feet/pins. A lottle caution when mounting up the panels and all is well.

Tips:
Keep plugging back in the window controls. Operate the window up and down- make sure when you are about to mount the speaker that the window is down so you know where you are at. In my case the magnets were so massive that i had to remove the rubber ring that comes with them to protect the magnet. Even so, the glass contacts the upper edge of the magnet. On the passenger side it hits maybe 1/8th of an inch before fully open. Not a big deal, but something i took into account when doing the drivers door and was able to open up the door hole a little bigger near the bottom and create just a touch more room for the magnet/window clearence.

Gotta love how tight the plastics are in the honda- hardly any rattles and im running a 12" sub w a 400 watt amp! The doors are relatively rattle free as well and ive got an honest 170 watts going to each 6.5"!
 

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Great write-up, did mine last year, and just in time too, all the speaker terminals were rusted out on my Gen3, I guess Honda forgot to add Dielectric grease to the connections
 

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Indeed a great thread. I have an '09 and had my Eclipse CD-5030 installed (previously it was in my '04) and I am thinking of upgrading the speakers, probably with either Morel Tempo or Polk DB6501 in the front. These tips help a lot for my planning.
 

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Great thread! Even though most of the links to pictures won't work anymore.

I'm thinking about replacing door speakers with BLAM 165RS set (decent sound, great pricing, very small crossover box only on tweeter cable). Specification on the speaker box says that the installation depth is 63mm (2.48inch). Do you think those will fit to front doors with regular adapter ring?

Edit.
Link to these speakers:
https://www.blam-audio.fr/index.php/en/product-line/relax-system/speakers/165-rs
 

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Great thread! Even though most of the links to pictures won't work anymore.

I'm thinking about replacing door speakers with BLAM 165RS set (decent sound, great pricing, very small crossover box only on tweeter cable). Specification on the speaker box says that the installation depth is 63mm (2.48inch). Do you think those will fit to front doors with regular adapter ring?
Forgot to mention that I have a 2007 mkIII CR-V Ex. The car has original nav/radio/parking cam and those speakers should work fine with that radio. Even if these speakers would fit, I still need to find out about the wiring of original radio and how to connect speakers to it. Any advice on this?
 
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