[Recoil Rob]

Going to tackle this tomorrow with some of the replacement KYB Struts Plus they recently started making for this Gen.3 CRV (KYB SR4233 & SR4234)

I got my instruction from this A1 Auto video.

I need to know if his torque values are correct (all in ft.lbs)...

5 top bolts under the hood, 33

2 large knuckle bolts 116

Lastly there's what he calls the "upper stud bolt to the swaybar link", this is the one with the 6mm hex insert to keep the stud from spinning while removing the nut. He has this listed at 58 ft.lbs.

Also, if you look at the video starting at 13 minutes when he's torquing this, he puts a vise grip on the rear to the stud to hold it while torquing the nut. Wouldn't the same thing be accomplished by holding the nut with a box wrench and then torquing the 6mm hex? Or would that strip out?


thanks,

Rob

 

[Recoil Rob]

Thanks for the advice.

Concerning aftermarket sway bar links, if I need them it looks like Autozone has them in stock, house brand. On something as simple as this part d0es that matter or should I go to Honda?

 

[Recoil Rob]

That wasn't bad at all. I put the car up on stands last night and sprayed all the nuts with PB blaster.

Took off the wheels today and first thing was to use a Dremel with small wire wheels to clean all the threads, sway links and pinch bolts. I used a wheel for them and a smaller brush to get inside the 6mm sway bar socket.

The right sway bar link came off fairly easily with a box wrench in one hand and a 6mm Allen head socket on a 3/8 ratchet. I wouldn't want to do that with a 6mm Allen key.

Before removing the pinch bolts I put my floor jack under the lower attachment bolts, being sure not to lift from under the lower ball joint.

I used a bungee to keep the hub from pulling out of the CV joint, didn't want to deal with that mess...

The 5 top nuts came right off and the old one was removed...

The toughest part was putting the new one in and getting a nut started up top, would have been cake if I had a helper but I got it done. Another piece I found handy is a good magnetic pick up tool for getting the nuts in and out, I was even able to get a turn started...on one nut the stud is longer so I had to stack another in between but it held enough....

After that everything went back together easy peasy, torqued everything and put the wheel on, just about 1 hour.

 

[Recoil Rob]

I thought with the right side done I was home free...

The left side sway bar link was a bit tougher, I had to heat it and then grind the sides of the jaws on a Vise grip to hold the rear but it came, left side took 1hr 15.

I took it for a test drive, rides great but now my steering wheel is about 5˚ left of TDC when going straight. The car doesn't pull but I wanted to get the new strut assemblies in before getting a 4 wheel alignment, that's scheduled for Monday.

I think the prep I did with the PB Blaster and Dremeling the threads really helped, along with the proper tools. If I was going to do it over I would have ordered new sway bar links but what's done is done.

Thanks to all!

 

[Recoil Rob]

Recoil Rob, thanks for sharing your experience....I have a 07 and will replace all 4 strut assemblies soon.

I wanted to know how you liked the KYB strut assemblies, any issues after the install? Thanks

No issues at all with the KYB's have about 2K on them, ride is solid. After I had the alignment done the steering wheel came back to TDC, all good. Now, on to rear brakes!

 

[Recoil Rob]

I used the A-1 tutorial, at the time they didn't carry the KYB for 2009 CRV, I went to Rock Auto. I just looked and A-1 has the KYB, $437/pair, Rock Auto is $250/pair.

So there's that.....