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Having done the struts last summer on both '09s, I'm looking at the service manual and the torque values you give are correct. However, the bolts should all be snug, and the bolts not torqued until you use a jack to support the vehicle's weight with the suspension. The manual says:
"Place the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the ball joint of the lower arm." And they do the pinch bolts first, followed by the five nuts on top.
Depending on the amount of rust on the stabilizer bar links, you may want to have two new ones on hand. My '09's links were reusable, but I had to sacrifice them on the other '09 since they were too rusted on. I used a carbide reciprocating saw to get those off of there.
Some of the aftermarket stabilizer bar links have other means to hold the stud in place while you torque it down, such as a hex on the stud so you can hold it with a box wrench. The allen/hex wrench in the end of the OEM stud is a silly idea IMHO, not so much for installation but for eventual removal. If they are rusted, they will only strip out, and rather easily at that. And if that is the case, cutting it off is the only sane way to continue with the job.
I found out how to do the rear struts without undoing the stabilizer bar link--unfasten the two bushings holding the rear stabilizer bar to the body. It will drop down and allow the suspension to move adequately.
"Place the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight. NOTE: Do not place the jack against the ball joint of the lower arm." And they do the pinch bolts first, followed by the five nuts on top.
Depending on the amount of rust on the stabilizer bar links, you may want to have two new ones on hand. My '09's links were reusable, but I had to sacrifice them on the other '09 since they were too rusted on. I used a carbide reciprocating saw to get those off of there.
Some of the aftermarket stabilizer bar links have other means to hold the stud in place while you torque it down, such as a hex on the stud so you can hold it with a box wrench. The allen/hex wrench in the end of the OEM stud is a silly idea IMHO, not so much for installation but for eventual removal. If they are rusted, they will only strip out, and rather easily at that. And if that is the case, cutting it off is the only sane way to continue with the job.
I found out how to do the rear struts without undoing the stabilizer bar link--unfasten the two bushings holding the rear stabilizer bar to the body. It will drop down and allow the suspension to move adequately.