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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My mechanic pal and I are working to put a used/imported transmission into this vehicle. What I ordered seems to have been a bit off to what I needed... it seems to be a 98'CR-V transmission. Same features and all that, it seems to be almost the same as the 99' version.

The only problem is in these two pictures that follow.

The replacement tranny has a differently shaped green connector, while the 99' has a black shaped connector. We're not certain what these are for but we think they are shift computers or something like that.

Is there some way to get these two connectors to mesh, and work in harmony? Or am I SOL? Does anyone know if the 98 and 99 Honda CR-V's have differing electronic control computers??
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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Welcome to the forum! Whether or not you can even use the transmission is likely going to depend on whether you can use the shift solenoids from the other transmission. Which will depend on whether or not the solenoids themselves are interchangeable or even fit, and whether or not they will work with your computer, which they may or may not. I think I'd call the supplier and ask them. If they don't have an answer I'd want them to exchange it for the right trans. Which is your best way forward anyway. Be sure to let us know how this works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the forum! Whether or not you can even use the transmission is likely going to depend on whether you can use the shift solenoids from the other transmission. Which will depend on whether or not the solenoids themselves are interchangeable or even fit, and whether or not they will work with your computer, which they may or may not. I think I'd call the supplier and ask them. If they don't have an answer I'd want them to exchange it for the right trans. Which is your best way forward anyway. Be sure to let us know how this works out.

Very good points. We've determined that the transmission connector I photographed above is range/neutral selector. Now we've seen another guy do this same job on YT and he just swapped the selector from the original transmission into the 'new' one. Would there be any issues with that? My friend just pointed out that the solenoids on the one we're putting in are quite rusty so we were thinking we could pull out the non-rusty ones on the original tranny to put into the 'new' one...
 

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I would say if it fits it will work. Same thing with the solenoids, but I wouldn't change them unless needed. But keep the others for spares, just in case. You don't know if they are compatible with the computer. I wouldn't change anything I didn't have to on a working transmission. Plus, if you change these things, then the trans doesn't work right, you won't know if it was already like that or you did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's good advice thank you. We have no choice but to switch the neutral switch though... the neutral switch on the 1998 Honda CRV transmission or otherwise known as the new one has a connected with eight wires in a 1999 Honda CRV transmission has 10 wires on it and they're not compatible. Like. They won't connect with each other. As I understand it a solenoid is just a rod that is extended by electro mechanical force... I can't imagine there's a lot whole lot going on there in terms of circuitry inside the solenoids. I'd wager a guess that all the computing that goes on inside that thing is inside the range switch... if I were an engineer (and I am but I'm not a mechanical engineer) and I would not put my circuitry inside of transmission I'd make it go through there or on the outside... I can however imagine some power being sent to the solenoids to power them to shift the transmission into gear... I think it's safe to change the solenoids too.


I'm kicking myself guys because I had two weeks ago a guy wanting to buy my vehicle... Is it the thing is I didn't want to be without a vehicle and I knew it had a transmission leak. And then we went about and monkeyed with it and found a hole in it... Ugh. I could have been without a vehicle but would have $5,000 in my account right now. it doesn't matter though because I'm going to be starting a new job here pretty soon and I need the vehicle... and the money's already gone so... we all got to learn sometime I think what I've learned to do here is to do a cost benefit analysis for these things... Heh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So we've finally got 'er put back together. Took her for a test drive and not long after putting it in gear the CEL came on. There's not a lot of power, and she won't go into park. By that I mean the indicator light says shes in park but it still rolls here and there. Luckily we're on a level surface and have wheel chocks. Also there were some audible clunking noises on shifting into D and R ... Any ideas guys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So we've finally got 'er put back together. Took her for a test drive and not long after putting it in gear the CEL came on. There's not a lot of power, and she won't go into park. By that I mean the indicator light says shes in park but it still rolls here and there. Luckily we're on a level surface and have wheel chocks. Also there were some audible clunking noises on shifting into D and R ... Any ideas guys?
Slight bump.

I've determined the source of the problem, I'm quite certain. The shift solenoid isn't functioning in part because the channel behind it must be clogged with dirt and grime. The "new" transmission was quite oily and grimy in that area, so naturally some crud may have snuck its way in there... gonna drain it, pull off that particular solenoid and clean it out before putting it back, and possibly testing it too though the it came off the "old" tranny which we do understand was in functioning order prior to all this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ah perhaps I can help! @Wspangle The first thing you shoud check is all of your solenoid connections. They should be snug and connected properly. At this stage my vehicle is back together and more or less drivable. It won't go past first gear as far as I can tell. I think the Transmission Speed sensor has been rendered non-functional because my pal connected it backward and it was coated in grease. I've ordered a new one online, and you can find them all over the place too, you don't need to order from a local store ($100+ from a local store here). Or you can go to a junkyard. In my case we took all the sensors and solenoids off the "old" tranny and put them on the "new" one, because we know these ones work.

Also putting those crucial engine mount bolts back in behind the engine will be the toughest part. Its not easy (at all) getting the bolts lined up with their holes. You're gonna have to wiggle, loosen, and mess with your hoisting to get 'er lined up so you can get those two bolts in. I recommend using an ATV jack to slide it in place and lift 'er up. Also passenger and driver side seals were hard to find. We ordered a tranny rebuild kit from a local trans shop... It was $120, but its the only place that had the necessary seals. Its a precision brand, and I know I saw those online for much less but we were not certain if the cheaper ones had what we needed.

I'd imagine that the TSS is the culprit for not shifting past 1st gear because if the tranny doesn't understand how fast its turning it can't know when to upshift. Otherwise it could be your linear shift solenoids, located forward of the range sensor on the bottom beneath one of the black metal covers.

I'm not an expert btw I can't guarantee these will work!



THE VERY LAST THING: Put some oil in your torque converter (ATF NOT MOTOR OIL) prior to installing the whole thing. Otherwise you're gonna have a dry torque converter and have to wait for it to fill from the main tranny body.

@Theman5 this is why:

138901
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey its not my fault the guy who (oversold) it to me neglected to tell me about it an absolved himself of all responsibility. Piece of work. The good news? If I can fix this gear shifting problem with the new TSS I'll have even better low-end torque. The 98' honda CRV transmission has a whole 0.5 smaller gear ratio! Maybe I can go racing! HAHA

More seriously: when you check the ATF level on these things make absolutely certain that you put the dipstick back where it goes. I think what happened was some dummy put the stick just a bit outside the dipstick hole and it got caught between the CV-Axle and the tranny and then the poor soul went for a spin. I almost did that myself last week!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Yea I wouldn't do that
WHEW. Was almost due for round deaux!

CV-Axle fell OUT of the tranny today on her "maiden voyage", heh. My pal showed up and figured that out. This is precisely what we think the idiot who sold me the vehicle did.We're trying to figure out how to get the damn thing to stay in place. Will follow up tomorrow. No serious damage yet. No internal damage we think since its just the CV-Axle falling out of position,

I swear this damn thing is cursed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You have obviously brushed up against someone who has pissed off the car gods, and now it has rubbed off on you. Sorry to see it.
I've been having an issue that is getting progressively worse since the replacement.

1. at 35 to 30 mph and just around 1500 rpm the entire vehicle shakes. I call it a shudder.
2. I smell burnt rubber in the cabin whenever I climb in.
3.. Yesterday the whole vehicle jerked erratically when driving. It was a hot day.

Please advise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've been having an issue that is getting progressively worse since the replacement.

1. at 35 to 30 mph and just around 1500 rpm the entire vehicle shakes. I call it a shudder.
2. I smell burnt rubber in the cabin whenever I climb in.
3.. Yesterday the whole vehicle jerked erratically when driving. It was a hot day.

Please advise?
Seems to be dependent on transmission temperature too. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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