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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I'm new to the Forum. Apologies if I am posting here in error but I figured I's start here.

I'm in Scotland and just purchased a used Honda Cr-V 2.0 I-VTEC SE SPORT 5DR 2002. It has little in the way of service history and has about 73K on the clock.

It drives nicely and so far I've had no issues commuting to and from work.

I'd like to do some routine maintenance including oil and fluid changes. Has anyone worked on this model and might be able to advise on what oil etc to use and what other routine maintenance I can do to try and get the best out of the CRV?

One of the warning lights is on on on the dash. it's the small light that looks like an engine/exhaust. It's not flashing but showing up in yellow. I remember this being on for a long time on a 2003 Golf GTI I had before. Any pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks

James
 

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Does the car have the owners manuals in it? The manuals have the recommended regular maintenance schedule.
 

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Hi
The orange light in the shape of an engine should go out when you start the engine, if not you need to take it to a garage to have the problem checked out as this could be a number of problems that could be harmful to your engine, as you don't have any recent service history, this is the first thing I would do.

Again not knowing what has been done on the car suggests that you should change the oil and filter first, 5W30 oil is recommended.
Then the plugs and air filter will probably need doing. Visually check the brake pads and if they need changing get the brake fluid changed also at the same time. The coolant will probably need replacing also. I would also get the fan belt (serpentine or V belt) changed.
If you are intending doing your own work a Haynes manual can be bought from Halfords for around £20, Halfords website is good to tell you what spares/fluid/oil/filters you need, you just type in your make and model of car.
If your car is a second generation CRV built in 2002 it will have a Cam chain so you will not need a cam belt change.
Good luck
 

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When you change the oil and filter, there is a process by which you reset the "service required" light. With the key off (engine not running), press and hold the odometer reset button in the instrument cluster. Continue to hold it pressed in and start the engine and continue to hold the reset button for 15 seconds after the engine starts. That's it....complete.

The brake fluid should be flushed/replaced every two years.

Buy a good quality tire pressure gauge and use it often. You can easily double the life of your tires by doing so.

Buy new wiper blade inserts every year. They're cheap and easy to replace.
 

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Do a change of the rear differential fluid (use only Honda Dual Pump Fluid 2, I believe) esp if it makes a low rubbing or growling type noise when making slow tight turns. It takes around 1.1 qts and is fairly easy to do yourself. This forum has loads of good suggestions and walk-throughs on how to do maint, etc
Enjoy your CRV. :)
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Many thanks for all your replies.

I wish I'd had time to trawl through the forum before one of the rear brakes seized. I've had to replace the discs and pads in all four corners as well as replace one of the calipers. It was sore on the wallet at £700 all in. It's late in the day but hopefully this wasn't riduclously overcharged.

Can anyone recommend (preferably by sending a link) a site in the UK where I can order a service kit which includes the air filter, oil filter, plugs, washer etc? seems to be one camp always recommending Honda specific parts and another camp saying buy from other manufacturers....I might just use Halfrauds.

I've since got a copy of the Haynes manual which explains the routine repairs so I'll use that as a guide.

Buffalo4, thanks for your comments. There is such a sound when turning full lock at low speeds so I'll check that out too.

Thanks again

James
 

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Halfrauds
:D:D


That's the Pep Boys of the UK, right? If it is, I wouldn't trust the parts quality there.


I'm not aware of a Service Kit as you describe here in the USA...might be able to get the parts from an Ebay supplier, though. Look for OE parts, not aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've since managed to do a full oil change which wasn't too messy, changed the oil filter, engine air filter and recently changed the cabin filters one of which was completely clogged.

The engine management light is still on but was only flagged as an advisory when it passed it's MOT recently. The former owner said the light had been on the whole time he had it (3 years) so I can only assume (and hope) that it's nothing fatal.... I did try the reset suggested above but it just came on again - any other suggestions?

There's a tow bar fitted and is starting to show signs of rust so i was thinking of removing it - next job!

James
 

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Hi James
The engine light could just be a sensor fault on the "Cat" you would need to get that checked but if its past its MOT then it may not be too bad.
You could always respray the towing bracket and sell it on, if you don't want it.
 

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The brake fluid should be flushed/replaced every two years.
That's every 3 years as per your manual. But if you don't tow, you could go longer.

Chances are your brake fluid may never have been changed at all, so that is something you should have checked. Same with tranny oil, power steering & radiator. With the Rear Diff. you would hear a whinning in the rear when making sharp turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
latest disaster

So, I was heading for Braemar a couple of weeks ago to do a hike in the cairngorms, I was about 40 miles from home when I pulled out to pass a caravan, I reckon I nudged it up to about 4000 revs, only to pass the caravan and have all the christmas lights on the dash light up and the engine cut out. I was only 200 yards from a 4x4 garage so they picked it up for me. Diagnosis is a broken con rod which has gone through and wrecked the engine.

Not sure if it's worth getting a replacement used engine or just scrap it and buy something else?
 

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Hi
The orange light in the shape of an engine should go out when you start the engine, if not you need to take it to a garage to have the problem checked out as this could be a number of problems that could be harmful to your engine, as you don't have any recent service history, this is the first thing I would do.
Like kypriaki mentioned, you may have saved yourself a few $$ had you had it checked out instead of ignoring it. It comes on for a reason and you chose to ignore it.

Tough break mate!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
mechanic told me they wouldn't have been able to diagnose a suspect connecting rod from running the computer on it. He was probably saying that just to make me feel better. When I put it in for the MOT and for the brake disc renewal I asked them to run the computer on it so I'd know why the engine management light was on. Both garages said they never had time to do it. I should have been more resolute!
 

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Live & learn. So is it going to be a rebuild or a new vehicle James?
 

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I don't think that light would have helped with your situation. I suppose if something was causing the engine to overheat or missfire than possibly, but, we will never know. I don't know what it is like over there, but here is USA most auto parts stores will hook a computer to your car and read the codes for free for you. Just a little something extra they offer to entice you to buy parts at their store.
 

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Sorry to here it James, sound like the previous owners never looked after it, warning lights are there for a reason, not good to ignore them especially for 3 years, hope you get sorted soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Right folks,

So my "routine maintenance" thread has now become a "how do I find another engine and replace the duff one that was imploded?"

The garage where the wonky wagon is currently resting are unsure of the compatibility of using an engine from a manual model to replace the engine in my automatic model. They have experience is switching engines in Landrover and Audi but little experience with Honda. As it's a popular model there are a few engines available from breakers yards. Trying to avoid anything that has been on its roof or a front impact. Engine code is K20A4 apparently.

Has anyone had any experience with this? Any pointers would be gratefully received! Please don't remind me about the dangers of ignoring warning lights...

cheers

James
 

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