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2020 CRV Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good mornin,
What is the general opinion on the best rustproofing for a new CRV? Everything I read leads to Krown oil protection. Dealer in my area wants 1500$ for an extra 3 yrs on the bumper to bumper warranty, has anyone negotiated a lower price?
 

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I've seen some bad things online about Krown; apparently it's hard to do correctly, and if it's not perfect, it makes things worse. (Most car manufacturers warn against rust-proofing, and Krown (or similar) failure is why.) And it makes working on any part the Krown has coated a PITA, even if it doesn't start rusting.

There's no reason to get anything like this done at the dealer... I've heard good things about Fluid-Film, which should be available from a 3rd party for a lot less. (It's a goopy lanolin product that doesn't trap moisture underneath if there's a hole in the coating.)
 

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Most car manufacturers warn against rust-proofing, and Krown (or similar)
I've used Krown on all my vehicles for 35+ years and have been pleased with how its worked for me. Are there better rust proofing systems? Possibly, but at this point I'm gonna stick with whats worked for me. Here are some thoughts and experiences...

Whenever I purchase a new vehicle and decline their rust proofing because I plan on using Krown, the dealer always tells me "it's a pain cause it needs to be applied every year". I tell them that's one of the reasons it works so well. True it needs more 'maintenance" in that regard, but that make it more effective. For two reasons. No rust proofing is perfect and does wear off over time. Also, what if with the first time application something was missed (human error during application). You'll get coverage the next year, and then after that.

I work for a major Canadian city that applies gobs of salt on the roads every year. They use Krown on their buses ... and salt trucks! They would have stopped using it long ago if it wasn't effective.

Also from personal experience. When my Toyota Sienna was 18y old, I took it in to Speedy Muffler to get part of the muffler welded so I could pass the emission test. When the mechanic called me to give me my quote, he specifically asked and wanted to know what I was doing for rustproofing. I told him Krown and asked him why he was curious. He said underneath my vehicle looked awesome and it was a pleasure to work under for being such an old van. The fact that a mechanic who works under vehicles all the time was compelled to make such a comment out of the blue was confirmation for me that it really worked and I had not been throwing my money out the window. Here's the best part too. As the vehicle aged I no longer even applied it annually. I did so for the first 3 years when new, then every 2 years, then 3y, and by the time it was 18y old I'd not applied it for almost 4y!

So there you go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow, there's 2 different opinions. I know Krown is huge around my area, bad winters and tons of salt. I will decide in the next few weeks, a concern of mine is the drilling of holes and them not being properly sealed. My son had his car krowned and he was wiping oil seeps for years, so it seemed.
 

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2017 CRV Touring - Pearl White w Black Interior
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Wow, there's 2 different opinions. I know Krown is huge around my area, bad winters and tons of salt. I will decide in the next few weeks, a concern of mine is the drilling of holes and them not being properly sealed. My son had his car krowned and he was wiping oil seeps for years, so it seemed.
As I understand it (from their FAQs on their website), Krown says it needs to be re-applied yearly.. which represents a recurring cost. They also admit that it stays mobile, leaves a persistent light oil residue and will continue to "seep and creep" over time. They also say they have to wash your vehicle after application to get krown off of paint, glass, out of locks, etc. Then, they also claim it will lubricate parts (locks, brake cables, antennas, etc) on your vehicle continuously as well. It sounds..... messy... which is not to say it is not an effective corrosion protection.. only that it comes with "side effects".

I agree with you about the drilling of holes in your vehicle.... that would be a deal breaker for me, not to mention the coating is clearly a liquid, stays liquid, and continues to migrate and drip over time. I'm sure all of this varies with the actual vehicle being treated.

The other issue is hybrids. I have heard that rust protection treatments on hybrids is a no-no... but do not know what the concerns specifically are.

Clearly, the heavy use of salts on the roads in Canada presents a corrosion challenge... but there does not seem to be any "silver bullet" solution to the problem.

I wonder, have any of our Canadian members tried using one of the electronic corrosion prevention systems? I hear mixed reviews on how well Cathodic rust protection works, and given it needs a conductor (road salt and road water) to work.. I can see why the variability in effectiveness. In locations where it is wet and salty through the winter.. it seems like they may be more effective.
 

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I agree with you about the drilling of holes in your vehicle.... that would be a deal breaker for me, not to mention the coating is clearly a liquid, stays liquid, and continues to migrate and drip over time. I'm sure all of this varies with the actual vehicle being treated.

The other issue is hybrids. I have heard that rust protection treatments on hybrids is a no-no... but do not know what the concerns specifically are.

Clearly, the heavy use of salts on the roads in Canada presents a corrosion challenge... but there does not seem to be any "silver bullet" solution to the problem.

I wonder, have any of our Canadian members tried using one of the electronic corrosion prevention systems? I hear mixed reviews on how well Cathodic rust protection works, and given it needs a conductor (road salt and road water) to work.. I can see why the variability in effectiveness. In locations where it is wet and salty through the winter.. it seems like they may be more effective.
They drill the holes in the door panels and then add a rubber grommet. It looks perfectly fine and even seems like part of the build so to speak. This is done because the rust often starts inside the panels because they are not painted. The leaks for me have always stopped completely after 2-3 days. I park on the street during that time. The only issue is with the material leaking on the unpainted rear bumper. It did give me a problem once, and now I make sure to wipe and jam a tissue in the area for about a week until it's all leaked out. It's a pain for sure, but not much you can do about it. For me it's worth the trouble.

That being said, rust proofing is not as important as it use to be all the plastic and galvanized metal used these days. I remember in the 70s a friend chose to save some money and not rust proof. By the following year there were rust stains everywhere and his car looked terrible. These days you can go a few years before you noticed anything.

I've a couple of friends who tried those electronic corrosion systems and they did not recommend them as they didn't seem to do anything for them.
 

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I have been using Krown on my vehicles since 1993 with no issues. In fact my 1993 Astro van which I sold in 2006 was in perfect condition with 450,000 kms on it which included winter driving on Cdn roads. My 2005 Mazda 3 which are notorious for rusting is in almost new condition. Yes, the film creeps but that's what its supposed to do. I am a firm supporter of Krown.
 
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