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I have a 2011 CR-V 4WD that has a rebuilt title. The liftgate was replaced. Guessing by the condition of the interior, the prior owner parked it in a field somewhere in the weather for awhile atleast and it sat the entire time missing the liftgate. The seats are all stained which I am currently working on but there is small pieces of dead grass embedded into the carpet upholstry that I have never had much luck getting out. Another thing that bugs me is the exterior door handle assembly's are caked full of dirty on the inside. They look clean outside but there are always streaks of dirt coming down the door from the handles. See pics. The interior pics are not the best but it is just under the seat but it has looked like that for the whole year and a half I have owned it. Every creavous is filthy, the engine is coved in a layer of dust, the vents are filled with dust, ect...Im on SSD and complete detail is expensive. Any helpful tips on how I can get this car cleaned up in a DIY fashion? Thanks.

136490

136491
136492
 

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Welcome to the forum! You could try explaining your situation to the detailer, ask if they will do it one piece or section at a time, as you can afford it. For me, I have a super powerful shop vac, which would get a lot of it, and I also have an old Bissel Green Machine carpet shampooer that works great. Those two things would get most of it. You could go to Walmart or someplace local and rent a carpet shampooer. Still, it's going to be tight trying to get to those difficult areas like in that last picture without removing the seats. The Carpet shampooer will also clean the seats. That's all I got.
 

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How bout the door handle assembly dirt? Any suggestions on that. Thats my next task hopefully. I do have a green machine but I got it from someone else quite used and I have only deep cleaned the whole unit best I could but was always weary to use it. Guess I could try it out now.
 

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Im going to try and get some better pics tomorrow or the next day. It so damn cold. Big whoppin 19 degrees lol...kinda slow getting out there. Lol
 

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Make aure that a car sitting ourside OPEN unattended w a rebuilt title for a long period of time is worth a full detailed restoration. You can see some of the trim on exterior is misalligned so must have take some shot.

invest in an orbitbal buffer, a steamer, carpet cleaner and get to work on a list of ear area and whats needed priority wise.
 

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Misalligned? Where is that at? Actually my uncle is 74 and has been a working mechanic with his own shop and he bought it and did the repairs as far as the liftgate replacement, ect and sold it to me. 2011 with 90,000 miles. Seems worth it to me because it is TERRIBLE as far as I am concerned. I do need a buffer yes. Was looking at one today actually. I really need suggestions about the dirty locks/handle assembly.
 

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Full detail yes full detail restoration....I dont know about all that. Full detail....yes please. Lol.
 

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Misalligned? Where is that at? Actually my uncle is 74 and has been a working mechanic with his own shop and he bought it and did the repairs as far as the liftgate replacement, ect and sold it to me. 2011 with 90,000 miles. Seems worth it to me because it is TERRIBLE as far as I am concerned. I do need a buffer yes. Was looking at one today actually. I really need suggestions about the dirty locks/handle assembly.
Chrome trim and the black door panels look to be diff condition which is to be assumed they were replaced.
Just my .02
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And the "misallignment" you are refering too is the change from the back door to the back side window where the window seal changes and the chrome lines change with it too on both sides.
 

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I was thinking along those lines too Racoon. Hope its enough pressure. Ill have to try that one too. Thanks.
 

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Misalligned? Where is that at? Actually my uncle is 74 and has been a working mechanic with his own shop and he bought it and did the repairs as far as the liftgate replacement, ect and sold it to me. 2011 with 90,000 miles. Seems worth it to me because it is TERRIBLE as far as I am concerned. I do need a buffer yes. Was looking at one today actually. I really need suggestions about the dirty locks/handle assembly.
I seriously doubt there is any misalignment. From what I can see in your pictures, there is no misalignment. Yes, the rear window chrome strip is not perfect, but I'd say it's within factory spec. The vertical door gap line is much more critical, and it appears to be perfect.

Do NOT buy a buffer, or ever allow a buffer to be used on your car. The paint on your car was applied in micro-thin layers, including the clear coat on the surface, and it will not withstand a buffer without damage. Using a buffer of any kind on it is the worst thing you could possibly do. Hand wash (never use a brush type car wash facility), and hand wax only, and wax very gently, using a very easily applied wax. I highly recommend P21S wax, available from Amazon (link below). Get yourself a bundle of microfiber towels and use those only, for washing and waxing, and use only a gentle car wash soap, available from any auto parts store. It will give a phenomenal result. It's not cheap, but it's worth it. I have a lifetime of experience waxing cars, and while my old '91 F250 has actual old school full thickness paint with no clear coat, and could be buffed, I don't. It's just not worth the risk, and I guarantee a buffer could not give you a better finish than the P21S. Any buffing will ruin the paint on your CR-V. You cannot treat the paint on the CR-V like the paint on older cars. Look around and see all the newer cars with peeling and worn-through clear coats and paint and you are looking at the results of using a buffer, and once is all it takes. Don't let anyone talk you into it. Also, those fancy and expensive sealers and so-called highly scientific coatings are worthless. There are a multitude of YouTube videos from pro detailers that will tell you this exact same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4/ref=pd_yo_rr_rp_4/146-4643759-0741654?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002LOP5E4&pd_rd_r=a2c328dd-cfc9-4e35-a7c4-55bf11904c36&pd_rd_w=Tdz2v&pd_rd_wg=bWl3t&pf_rd_p=1052f804-649f-403a-953c-962cca53c537&pf_rd_r=WD1WXSCZ9CCAH6DQ7EPS&psc=1&refRID=WD1WXSCZ9CCAH6DQ7EPS
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The exterior paint really is no issue for me. Just interior and exterior door handle assembly. I have washed in a couple months and a exterior wash would make the outside look fine. Exterior paint is no problem.
 

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I am suspicious it might have been a flood recovery vehicle. Look under the seats and carpets. Even if it wasn't submerged it may have been an insurance total to get a salvage title.
 

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I am suspicious it might have been a flood recovery vehicle. Look under the seats and carpets. Even if it wasn't submerged it may have been an insurance total to get a salvage title.
My sentiments as well. Or it could have been wrecked and sat out in a salvage yard until the re-builder bought it.
 

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Yup, a flood vehicle is a high likelihood based on the looks of things. How much of that becomes an issue depends on how long it sat partially immersed in water. Generally, a scar that sat only a short time, say, a couple of days at most, will not necessarily have issues. If the car begins to have small miscellaneous electrical/electronic issues, I'd clean it up and get rid of it ASAP, as it is likely to only get worse. I'd drain and replace all fluids and look for milky fluids, in the transmission and differentials, repack the wheel bearings, clean it up, and then just drive it and see how it does. A little online research can provide more info on the issues flood cars develop.

You might also spend the $40 and get a Carfax report, which should tell you if the car was flood damaged, though that's not guaranteed.
 

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Quit it QUICK we had a lot of flood damaged vehicles here in 1985 and they were stuffed and rusted quickly. You cannot restore them! OUCH
 

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A little late to the game here, but MY suggestion would be to remove the interior door panels (one at a time) and then remove the exterior handles from the door. You can now do a THOROUGH cleaning of the interior parts of the handle and lock mechanism, as well as replace the rubber seals/gaskets as needed. While you're in there, you can also inspect, adjust, and re-lubricate all of the parts before reassembly. No more dripping dirt and the newly lubed handles will outlive the rest of the vehicle. The use of high-pressure hoses will only lead to the possibility of water getting trapped inside the door cavities, accelerating the possibility of rust.👍
 
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