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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

In the process of the changing the rear struts on my 2007 CRV, and I've run into a problem. Went to remove the two trailing arm bolts on the right side to drop the arm. Got the front bolt out no problem, but the rear bolt seized after coming out about 1/2 an inch. Guessing the rusty tip of the bolt hit the threads, and like a dummy I kept turning, and now it's basically stuck. I tried to get it the rest of the way out with my electric impact wrench but no luck. Tried to screw it back in, but it won't move. Got some PB Blaster, and thought that I could hit the bolt through the drain holes in the sub frame, but it appears that whatever the bolt threads through is not exposed in that section of the frame.

In a nutshell, has anyone found a way to get penetrating oil on the top of that bolt? Maybe from the rear hatch or something. I'm about to try heat, but I am pessimistic given that I know I've got the rusty end locked in the threads. The bolt head is not looking too good and I probably only have one more shot.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. This is the last bolt that has to come out for the job:(

Thanks

Mark
 

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Best if you can get it to go back in. Then work it back and forth until it comes out. Impact tools work better than trying to strong arm it with a ratchet or something. That will end up breaking it off. Heat will work but you need to apply it to where the bolt is threaded through the arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestions. I will try heat tonight and see what happens. As we say at my house, mistakes were made. If I had been more patient, and worked the bolt a bit instead of trying to force it, I think it would have come out fine. Lesson learned.

Hopefully I can get it out without having to break out the drill.

Mark
 

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If you have access to an air hammer and a shake and break tool, I would think that it would work fairly easy. As long as you're not restricted in the amount of space to get the tool in.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-37315-8-Inch-Pneumatic-Breaker/dp/B008M23A5U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496781524&sr=8-2&keywords=shake+and+break+tool

Looks like there is a screw version too that makes removal of those screws on the brake discs that everyone complains about. I have the version in the link above and will be picking up the screw version too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pwz-NXj5ZIk
 

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For those rotor screws Ive always just used an impact screw driver and have not once had an issue.

http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_36882_36882?hotline=false&cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Screw + Nut Drivers&utm_campaign=Northern Industrial Tools&utm_content=15825&gclid=CjwKEAjwpdnJBRC4hcTFtc6fwEkSJABwupNiiepv6YTMH0Sy8Q0nxqxi5EP_VwXuO_UBkYezir4hSRoCkiHw_wcB

With that all you need is a 3-5lb hammer at most. Much easier for someone without impact tools.

You can even get a set at your local parts store for $10.00 when theyvare on sale.

Just my 2 cents for those rotor screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update - Success

So, final update. This thing was frozen solid. The bolt is threaded into a tube that is welded inside the rectangular frame. There is no way to access the top of the bolt to apply PB Blaster. There are drain holes in the bottom of the frame but no way to get above the tube. We actually drilled a small hole in the wheel well to see if we could get to the top of the bolt, but it's behind another section of the frame, so inaccessible. There is also no way to get sufficient heat on the problem area for the same reason. I heated the bottom of the bolt but it had no affect. We hit it repeatedly with the impact wrench in both directions, but nothing. A buddy gave it all he had with a 1/2 inch breaker bar while I held the extension straight, but would not budge. I even tried the shake and break tool someone else had recommended, but no luck.

Pretty much out ideas, my friend suggested drilling a larger hole in the frame in order to access the tube. Frankly I'm not sure if his idea was genius or nuts, but I decided to drill a 7/16 hole in the frame across from the tube. I put my Benzomatic in the hole and flamed the tube for 30 to 40 seconds than hit it with the impact wrench. After three rounds it finally came out.

I was pretty nervous about drilling a hole in the frame, but there is no way it could structurally weaken it, so I'll just patch it and move on. My only other options would have been to drill it out or have it towed to a shop. Both were pretty unappealing to me.

Mark
 

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Heat for only 30-40 seconds? I guess I should have been more clear. You need to heat it to multiple minutes for it to get hot enough to really work. Also it needs time for the heat to distribute throughout the entire bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Heat for only 30-40 seconds? I guess I should have been more clear. You need to heat it to multiple minutes for it to get hot enough to really work. Also it needs time for the heat to distribute throughout the entire bolt.
Good to know for next time. Thanks.
 
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