Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
1997 CR-V AWD
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue or might know a diagnosis. Two weeks ago, after 6 hours on the road from Atlanta and down the Florida east coast, my 1997 CRV AWD (160k miles) started shaking. The shaking came on gradually around the 6th hour of the 7 hour drive, and persisted for the final hour. The whole car seems to shake, from the steering wheel to the accelerator pedal to the body itself. The shaking only occurs under acceleration -- it begins around 15/20 miles an hour, and keeps getting worse the faster I go. At low/medium speeds (20-40mph) it's almost like a clunk or a thump that occurs ~ once per wheel rotation, causing the car to shake.

After arriving at the destination, I let the car sit overnight in hopes of checking fluid levels in the morning. All fluids at normal levels, with the exception of the transmission fluid which was a bit on the lower end of the dipstick, but still within the expected range.

Driving the car the next morning, all the shakes were gone. About 20 minutes into a 3 hour drive, the shakes started on gradually and then got worse. For the remaining 2.5 hours, the shakes were back to normal. Every now and then, the shakes would go away for a brief period (maybe 5 minutes) and then come back on.

I've since then driven the car back to Atlanta, and the shaking remains the same -- when the car is cold, there are no shakes. After it's been driven for 10-20 minutes, it starts shaking again upon acceleration.

The car is due for an oil change (5k miles on current oil) and Transmission fluid change (47k miles on current tranny fluid). I plan to change oil and do a transmission flush -- I'll post back with any updates if that fixes anything.
Also, I changed the rear diff fluid about two weeks prior to the shaking. I realized I changed it on a slight decline, so will try to see if I can add any fluid on an even surface.

Has anyone had a similar issue, or know of what might be causing this problem? Happy to provide extra info as needed.

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,694 Posts
If your CR-V has all-wheel drive, I would suspect the propeller shaft--it is easy enough to remove, and you can drive safely without it being there, to see if the issue goes away. The u-joints wear out over time.

Otherwise I'd suspect a tire issue.
 

·
Registered
1997 CR-V AWD
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If your CR-V has all-wheel drive, I would suspect the propeller shaft--it is easy enough to remove, and you can drive safely without it being there, to see if the issue goes away. The u-joints wear out over time.

Otherwise I'd suspect a tire issue.
Yes it's AWD, so I'll check the prop shaft. Thanks!
All tires are at normal pressure, and it's not pulling in any direction so don't think it's an alignment issue.
 

·
Registered
1997 CR-V AWD
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As an update, I checked the rear diff fluid. Was at full levels, so no issue there.
Changed the oil per regular maintenance.
Also did a 1st flush of the transmission fluid and then took it on a 30 minute highway drive. Worth noting that the tranny dipstick was reading low -- 2.5 quarts came out when I drained the fluid. Topped it up with 3 quarts. The shake was still there when driving, albeit a little less severe. Not sure if the transmission fluid flush actually helped the issue, or if 30 minutes wasn't long enough for the issue to come into full effect. The fluid was quite dark, and after the flush it was shifting better (no shifting issues prior, but it was a bit rough each shift). I'll continue to drive it and do another flush in a few hundred miles and see if it helps -- aiming for 3 total flushes.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
13,950 Posts
Here's something else to check (just happened to our '06!)

FEEL THE WHEEL CENTERS. Should be ~ the same L <-> R on each axle.




We would get a vibration intermittently. Felt in the steering wheel.

I happened to look into it JUST after driving, and I found a binding brake caliper on ONE wheel. The center of the wheel was hot hot hot.

Theorized that the hot brake was causing warpage of the rotor at times. (There was no resistance to rolling when cold)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Here's something else to check (just happened to our '06!)

FEEL THE WHEEL CENTERS. Should be ~ the same L <-> R on each axle.




We would get a vibration intermittently. Felt in the steering wheel.

I happened to look into it JUST after driving, and I found a binding brake caliper on ONE wheel. The center of the wheel was hot hot hot.

Theorized that the hot brake was causing warpage of the rotor at times. (There was no resistance to rolling when cold)
I had a similar problem with one of the front brakes on my Ford F250. It would be fine on short trips such as my 8-mile per round trip dump runs. Any further than that and it would start shaking and get increasingly worse. The problem with the Ford trucks is that the calipers would stick and the pads would heat up and keep grabbing the rotor tighter and tighter. Now, whenever I have any wheels off, I take a few minutes to clean up the brakes and grease the slide pins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hi all, I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue or might know a diagnosis. Two weeks ago, after 6 hours on the road from Atlanta and down the Florida east coast, my 1997 CRV AWD (160k miles) started shaking. The shaking came on gradually around the 6th hour of the 7 hour drive, and persisted for the final hour. The whole car seems to shake, from the steering wheel to the accelerator pedal to the body itself. The shaking only occurs under acceleration -- it begins around 15/20 miles an hour, and keeps getting worse the faster I go. At low/medium speeds (20-40mph) it's almost like a clunk or a thump that occurs ~ once per wheel rotation, causing the car to shake.

After arriving at the destination, I let the car sit overnight in hopes of checking fluid levels in the morning. All fluids at normal levels, with the exception of the transmission fluid which was a bit on the lower end of the dipstick, but still within the expected range.

Driving the car the next morning, all the shakes were gone. About 20 minutes into a 3 hour drive, the shakes started on gradually and then got worse. For the remaining 2.5 hours, the shakes were back to normal. Every now and then, the shakes would go away for a brief period (maybe 5 minutes) and then come back on.

I've since then driven the car back to Atlanta, and the shaking remains the same -- when the car is cold, there are no shakes. After it's been driven for 10-20 minutes, it starts shaking again upon acceleration.

The car is due for an oil change (5k miles on current oil) and Transmission fluid change (47k miles on current tranny fluid). I plan to change oil and do a transmission flush -- I'll post back with any updates if that fixes anything.
Also, I changed the rear diff fluid about two weeks prior to the shaking. I realized I changed it on a slight decline, so will try to see if I can add any fluid on an even surface.

Has anyone had a similar issue, or know of what might be causing this problem? Happy to provide extra info as needed.

Thanks!
Did you use the Dual Pump II fluid when you changed the rear differential fluid? I had a vibration in one of my 1998 CR-Vs. It wasn't violent, but the whole car would vibrate when I would get it over 45-50 mph. It was recommended that I replace the fluid, making sure I used the Honda Dual Pump II fluid, changing it three times, driving it a little in between changes. That did the trick for that one.

On my other '98, I had to replace the rear driveshaft. One of the u-joints was clearly bad, but I did remove it and drove it as an FWD until I got the replacement shaft. If you remove the shaft and drive it as FWD you will find out for sure if it's a bad u-joint or center bearing.

Lastly, it sounds a lot like a problem I had on my F250, which Carbuff2 addressed on this thread. One of my front brake calipers wasn't releasing. It was okay on short hope, but anything over 10 mikes or so, or highway speeds and it would start shaking, getting progressively worse. When it cooled off, the next day, it was fine until the brake heated up again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi all, I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue or might know a diagnosis. Two weeks ago, after 6 hours on the road from Atlanta and down the Florida east coast, my 1997 CRV AWD (160k miles) started shaking. The shaking came on gradually around the 6th hour of the 7 hour drive, and persisted for the final hour. The whole car seems to shake, from the steering wheel to the accelerator pedal to the body itself. The shaking only occurs under acceleration -- it begins around 15/20 miles an hour, and keeps getting worse the faster I go. At low/medium speeds (20-40mph) it's almost like a clunk or a thump that occurs ~ once per wheel rotation, causing the car to shake.

After arriving at the destination, I let the car sit overnight in hopes of checking fluid levels in the morning. All fluids at normal levels, with the exception of the transmission fluid which was a bit on the lower end of the dipstick, but still within the expected range.

Driving the car the next morning, all the shakes were gone. About 20 minutes into a 3 hour drive, the shakes started on gradually and then got worse. For the remaining 2.5 hours, the shakes were back to normal. Every now and then, the shakes would go away for a brief period (maybe 5 minutes) and then come back on.

I've since then driven the car back to Atlanta, and the shaking remains the same -- when the car is cold, there are no shakes. After it's been driven for 10-20 minutes, it starts shaking again upon acceleration.

The car is due for an oil change (5k miles on current oil) and Transmission fluid change (47k miles on current tranny fluid). I plan to change oil and do a transmission flush -- I'll post back with any updates if that fixes anything.
Also, I changed the rear diff fluid about two weeks prior to the shaking. I realized I changed it on a slight decline, so will try to see if I can add any fluid on an even surface.

Has anyone had a similar issue, or know of what might be causing this problem? Happy to provide extra info as needed.

Thanks!
It could be your universal joint. This is currently the issue I’m having with my crv and I’m having the same exact problems as you. Mine starts when I get around 65-75 mph. There is also a clicking sound when making very tight turns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
same here... with the front u-joint on one of my '98's. i thought it might be a wheel/s out of balance, but on the way out of my drive (big country road hill) to get the balances checked, the joint snapped and left the front shaft flopping. were i you, i'd pull the front and rear u-joints down and rotate them by hand. you can't do this while the u-joint is bolted up. if there's any stiffness at all, the joint is bad. and, fyi, you can replace them yourself....as i'm about to do. any brand will work, but i got some rockwells with internal c-clips. you see, honda will tell you to just buy a whole new driveshaft as the joints are not serviceable because they're "staked" in from the factory. but, i've learned recently this isn't the case. again, you can do them yourself. check youtube. other manufacturers used "staked" joints, but folks are still replacing them at home
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
On the stuck brake- how could you check that it is getting stuck intermittently?


This guy says cv shaft is to blame. But my 2000 crv shakes from at all speeds. It comes and goes. Thought it was an exhaust issue forever lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
On the stuck brake- how could you check that it is getting stuck intermittently?


This guy says cv shaft is to blame. But my 2000 crv shakes from at all speeds. It comes and goes. Thought it was an exhaust issue forever lol
the brake sticking..there's a few good ways to check.
jack up the front, pull both wheels off, and have someone watch caliper movement while depressing the brake. as well, check for uneven wear on the pads. if one side is sticking, then those pads would likely be worn down more. lastly, you can pull the calipers off, keeping the brake line connected, and depress the pedal followed by pressing in on the brake piston. if it's sticking, you'd likely feel it doing so while pressing
for the rear, you'll just have to check visually by pulling the drums off. usually a sticky brake mechanism will be obvious. and, the shoes will have uneven wear. perhaps some glazing and/or cracking
i should also mention, while driving, you might take opportunities to see if the vehicle is pulling to one side...provided you know your alignment is in good order. try on a stretch of highway that's level without traffic around and take your hands off the wheel for a moment. with your hands back on the wheel, tap the brake and let go of the steering for a moment, again. alternate this a few times
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Ended up being a pretty significant tear in the boot on the driverside cv axel. Probably has been there since I got the vehicle/ my wife ran it into a curb pretty hard at one point. Had to replace the wheel so that could be it too.

A torn boot/ driving it through dust would cause the cv axel to go bad/ lots of shaking yeah? Any one know where to get a reliable cv axel/ a Honda one.. guy in the video I posted reccomended cardone
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2016 CRV Touring AWD sold
Joined
·
4,138 Posts
Cv joint when the boot fails and tears, loose grease and start clicking during used, especially when chang direction.

what you describe suggests more severe damage than just a wheel. Was the tire replaced? It or some suspension or steering parts could be damaged. Alignment check time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Cv joint when the boot fails and tears, loose grease and start clicking during used, especially when chang direction.

what you describe suggests more severe damage than just a wheel. Was the tire replaced? It or some suspension or steering parts could be damaged. Alignment check time.
My proposed solution was a new cv axel- and then yeah probably an alignment. I'm mainly going off of some research on the forums/ that video I posted. Lots of shaking- torn driver side cv boot. It all checks out. You think that wouldnt be the source of the shake?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
if she ran into a curb, you might have a control arm damaged. look at where the lower arm secures to the subframe and compare it to the other side. check to see if there's deformation in the metal where the arm transitions to the bushing mounts. also, does it look the cv shaft is bent at all? is there any abnormal wear at either edge of that side tire? likely it'd be worn to the inside, if it all

if there's any grease and not a bunch of crud inside the boot, and the axle isn't clicking, it might be just fine. it's common to just replace the boots. i did so on one of my '98's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Replaced cv axel on driver side, ended up being not so bad. The old axel was torn pretty bad, the pic is after I ripped the front/lower half of the cv axel off. Full of grime...

The shake is better but not completely solved. Before it was mainly under acceleration/ up hills, now it is less to do with acceleration and more to do with going between over 50mph. My next thought is to change the ball joint out? Maybe the wheel itself is damaged?

On the control arm- I will try to watch some videos on proper diagnosis but I don't see any deformations that are obvious to me.

Appreciate the help.
 

·
Registered
1997 CR-V AWD
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just wanted to post an update after finding a fix. Turns out that it was the drive shaft causing the vibration -- likely a bad U joint. Explains why it would shake sometimes (when AWD was engaged) but not others. Thanks for all the help, and hoping the thread can help others as well!
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top