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Removal of stock rotors & Install Slotted & Drilled Rotors & Brake Pads
Here in this DIY MOD, I changed out my factory rotors for some Black coated Slotted & Drilled Rotors & put new Brake Pads on also.
Materials and Tools Used:
I bought my rotors from ebay... I know, some might flame me for it but I did anyway. I got my pads from O'reilly Auto Parts. I used the lift point on the front of the CR-V and jacked the vehicle up and then placed 2 jack stands under it at the lift points. I also used a wheel chock on the rear wheels while working on the front and when I switched to working on the rear, I put the wheel chock in front of the front wheel.
I removed one wheel, then I used a 12mm socket to take out the 2 bolts holding on the caliper. I hung the caliper up on the spring out of the way taking care not to strain the brake line. Then I used a 17mm socket to remove the caliper holder.
The factory rotors still had the Philips head screws in them from the factory that they put to hold the rotors on while the vehicle is on the assembly line. I used a spring loaded screw driver that you tap with a hammer that breaks the screw free with out stripping the head. I borrowed it from my buddy who is a Honda Mechanic at the local dealership. Next to get the rotor free, I used some persuasion from a small "Thor hammer" ..dead blow to gently tap the rotor free and pulled it off. They were shot...
I then put the new slotted and drilled rotor on and yes, I did put the 2 retaining screws back in that came from the factory, then put the caliper holder back on.
I put new brake pad guides and a small dab of anti seize on them and also some caliper guide pin grease behind the rubber boots. I also put on new pad springs since the ones on there looked like factory also. Once the pads, springs and grease was done I installed the calipers. You may have to use your 10mm boxed end wrench to open the bleeder valve so you can compress the caliper cylender in so it will go over your new brake pads. Dont for get to tighten it back while fluid is coming out so you dont suck in air!
I repeated for the passenger side.
Once you move to the back of the vehicle, it is pretty much the same but when you go to put the new rotors on, take a flat head screw driver and pop out the rubber plug and install it on you new rotors....it is a plug that covers the emergency brake slack adjusters. also, there is a different type of "spring" that goes into the caliper as well.
When you re-install your wheels, Dont forget to torque them to...I think 85 lbs. That is what I did mine at and after I drove about 100 miles, I re-checked and re-torqued them.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask as I might have left something out.
Materials and Tools Used:
- black coated slotted drilled rotors
- Wagner brake pads
- new front brake pad springs
- jack
- jack stands
- ratchet and breaker bar
- 17mm, 12mm sockets
- 10mm boxed end wrench
- copper anti seize
- Honda brand brake fluid DOT3 ...I just use Honda dot3 because personal choice
- impact wrench, compressor, air line
- wheel lock socket if applicable
- torque wrench
I bought my rotors from ebay... I know, some might flame me for it but I did anyway. I got my pads from O'reilly Auto Parts. I used the lift point on the front of the CR-V and jacked the vehicle up and then placed 2 jack stands under it at the lift points. I also used a wheel chock on the rear wheels while working on the front and when I switched to working on the rear, I put the wheel chock in front of the front wheel.
I removed one wheel, then I used a 12mm socket to take out the 2 bolts holding on the caliper. I hung the caliper up on the spring out of the way taking care not to strain the brake line. Then I used a 17mm socket to remove the caliper holder.
The factory rotors still had the Philips head screws in them from the factory that they put to hold the rotors on while the vehicle is on the assembly line. I used a spring loaded screw driver that you tap with a hammer that breaks the screw free with out stripping the head. I borrowed it from my buddy who is a Honda Mechanic at the local dealership. Next to get the rotor free, I used some persuasion from a small "Thor hammer" ..dead blow to gently tap the rotor free and pulled it off. They were shot...
I then put the new slotted and drilled rotor on and yes, I did put the 2 retaining screws back in that came from the factory, then put the caliper holder back on.
I put new brake pad guides and a small dab of anti seize on them and also some caliper guide pin grease behind the rubber boots. I also put on new pad springs since the ones on there looked like factory also. Once the pads, springs and grease was done I installed the calipers. You may have to use your 10mm boxed end wrench to open the bleeder valve so you can compress the caliper cylender in so it will go over your new brake pads. Dont for get to tighten it back while fluid is coming out so you dont suck in air!
I repeated for the passenger side.
Once you move to the back of the vehicle, it is pretty much the same but when you go to put the new rotors on, take a flat head screw driver and pop out the rubber plug and install it on you new rotors....it is a plug that covers the emergency brake slack adjusters. also, there is a different type of "spring" that goes into the caliper as well.
When you re-install your wheels, Dont forget to torque them to...I think 85 lbs. That is what I did mine at and after I drove about 100 miles, I re-checked and re-torqued them.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask as I might have left something out.
now on to the pictures....
jack still under vehicle, jack stands used and wheel off
hung caliper on spring out of the way
caliper off and caliper mount off
showing backside of caliper mount ...2 17mm bolts
spring loaded Philips head screw driver .. tap with dead blow and it breaks stubborn screw that holds rotors on free.
Everything Off
Thank you for taking the time to check it out too.
