[superbazooka]

Removal of stock rotors & Install Slotted & Drilled Rotors & Brake Pads​

Here in this DIY MOD, I changed out my factory rotors for some Black coated Slotted & Drilled Rotors & put new Brake Pads on also.

Materials and Tools Used:

• black coated slotted drilled rotors
• Wagner brake pads
• new front brake pad springs
• jack
• jack stands
• ratchet and breaker bar
• 17mm, 12mm sockets
• 10mm boxed end wrench
• copper anti seize
• Honda brand brake fluid DOT3 ...I just use Honda dot3 because personal choice
• impact wrench, compressor, air line
• wheel lock socket if applicable
• torque wrench

I bought my rotors from ebay... I know, some might flame me for it but I did anyway. I got my pads from O'reilly Auto Parts. I used the lift point on the front of the CR-V and jacked the vehicle up and then placed 2 jack stands under it at the lift points. I also used a wheel chock on the rear wheels while working on the front and when I switched to working on the rear, I put the wheel chock in front of the front wheel.

I removed one wheel, then I used a 12mm socket to take out the 2 bolts holding on the caliper. I hung the caliper up on the spring out of the way taking care not to strain the brake line. Then I used a 17mm socket to remove the caliper holder.

The factory rotors still had the Philips head screws in them from the factory that they put to hold the rotors on while the vehicle is on the assembly line. I used a spring loaded screw driver that you tap with a hammer that breaks the screw free with out stripping the head. I borrowed it from my buddy who is a Honda Mechanic at the local dealership. Next to get the rotor free, I used some persuasion from a small "Thor hammer" ..dead blow to gently tap the rotor free and pulled it off. They were shot...
I then put the new slotted and drilled rotor on and yes, I did put the 2 retaining screws back in that came from the factory, then put the caliper holder back on.

I put new brake pad guides and a small dab of anti seize on them and also some caliper guide pin grease behind the rubber boots. I also put on new pad springs since the ones on there looked like factory also. Once the pads, springs and grease was done I installed the calipers. You may have to use your 10mm boxed end wrench to open the bleeder valve so you can compress the caliper cylender in so it will go over your new brake pads. Dont for get to tighten it back while fluid is coming out so you dont suck in air!

I repeated for the passenger side.

Once you move to the back of the vehicle, it is pretty much the same but when you go to put the new rotors on, take a flat head screw driver and pop out the rubber plug and install it on you new rotors....it is a plug that covers the emergency brake slack adjusters. also, there is a different type of "spring" that goes into the caliper as well.

When you re-install your wheels, Dont forget to torque them to...I think 85 lbs. That is what I did mine at and after I drove about 100 miles, I re-checked and re-torqued them.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask as I might have left something out.​

now on to the pictures....



jack still under vehicle, jack stands used and wheel off


hung caliper on spring out of the way


caliper off and caliper mount off


showing backside of caliper mount ...2 17mm bolts


spring loaded Philips head screw driver .. tap with dead blow and it breaks stubborn screw that holds rotors on free.


Everything Off

 

[superbazooka]

more pictures showing the rotor and brake pad removal and install.....

new rotors


mounted


close up


caliper mount and new pad guides


anti-seize..i use on most bolts

 

[superbazooka]

more photos....
View attachment 67329
New Brake Pads

 

[superbazooka]

Finished product...or mod

Ill edit this post with a photos of them with my wheels on shortly.

 

[otto888man]

Thanks for sharing!

 

[superbazooka]

For sure Thank you for taking the time to check it out too.

 

[downloader]

good post. thanks

 

[superbazooka]

Thank you "downloader" I have a few more I'll post up some more in the future.

 

[COSMOS-1]

Have a question about drilled and slotted rotors, are they a one way trip, meaning can they be machined/resufaced if they ever warp or when you replace the pads.? Also, do you run the risk of cracks at the "drilled holes"over long term use like on a daily driver.?

 

[01CRVEX]

Have a question about drilled and slotted rotors, are they a one way trip, meaning can they be machined/resufaced if they ever warp or when you replace the pads.? Also, do you run the risk of cracks at the "drilled holes"over long term use like on a daily driver.?

Hey Cosmos-1,

Here's an article on cross drilled / slotted rotors vs. blank rotors:
http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/

I have cross drilled / slotted on my daily driven 01 EX for two years now without any issues. I also do not brake hard in most conditions.

 

[Buffalo4]

Superbazooka,
Did you 'bed' the pads after you installed them?
Some say that is very important.
http://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
Buffalo4

 

[superbazooka]

Thanks for the link . It's my first time with them so I hope all ends well. However, I did run into a spongy pedal problem....after 6 quarts..yes quarts of honda brake fluid. ..bled at calipers, bleeder at the top, even bled @ master cylinder too..they are still spongy. So I went to my buddies house this past Sunday, he is a certified Honda technician, and he helped me re bleed the brakes, and bled at master cylinder and the ABS module and calipers and still no luck. After he re checked my work..what yall see in the pictures, he said he thought it to be the master cylinder possibly ...bad seals, or something. I went home and got one that I had bought a month ago because I had planned on changing it out anyway and we put it on.
Yeup..bench bled,no bubbles. And about 3 more quarts of honda brake fluid latter........"sigh" ...still spongy. He said I might hae gotten air in the ABS module so I went down his road that's dirt, did a "panic" brake to activate the ABS and then let it cool for a minute and did that 4 more times. Then we bled them again. The pedal is a little stiffer but still feels spongy and has longer than normal travel. He is stumped like I am.
Any suggestions?

 

[superbazooka]

Superbazooka,
Did you 'bed' the pads after you installed them?
Some say that is very important.
http://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
Buffalo4

Yeah. I did bed them. The rotors came with a slip of paper they called "instructions "..lol. .but on the slip it said to install new pads..Check...install new rotors on vehicle..Check..then go 45 mph and do a semi hard slow down but not to stop and then drive around for a minute or so and not to use the brake and do this 2 more times. Continue to drive, then go 55 mph and do the same thing but this time activate Or try to activate ABS and slow to 10mph..do this a total of 4 times, then they said to go 65 mph and do a firm braking till 10mph and wait in between so they will cool d own for a total of 4 times. Then on the paper it said to lastly do 1 last hard braking but not to stop and then park the car and rotor and brake pad bedding should be complete.
I followed it to a T.

I am wondering if I needed to grease my guide pins with caliper guide pin lube? They moved fairly easy when I did the install and I didn't notice any unusual wear on the pads. I know I was supposed to but I honestly forgot to. Of all t he many brake bleeding I have done this past week and a half, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary when the brakes were engaged as I was bleeding them. I didn't see one side not moving versus the other on a caliper per side.

 

[Buffalo4]

Why did it take so much brake fluid when you bled the brakes? Was it staying dirty? Was there a lot of air bubble in it?
Why???
Were the brakes OK before you decided to do the Brake job?

Hopefully some Brake experts in this forum will be able to help.

Are you losing any brake fluid?

Spongy feel and longer brake travel are usually associated with air in the system or weak brake (non-metal portions) lines that are expanding when under pressure.

Buffalo4

 

[COSMOS-1]

Hey Cosmos-1, Here's an article on cross drilled / slotted rotors vs. blank rotors: http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/ I have cross drilled / slotted on my daily driven 01 EX for two years now without any issues. I also do not brake hard in most conditions.

Thanks, read that awhile back and it was a rhetorical statement. Try and convince someone that pads leave a layer of pad material on the disk. Been around a lot Ammco brake lathes over the years and it sure appears the rotor is warped. To some degree it is I true when the pad leaves material behind.

I had considered slotted rotors without drilled holes after searching awhile for my 2006 Duramax 2500HD. Found some in the Raybestos line only to find them on Alibaba which means my choices are limited.

The Honda CRV more than likely purchase Honda/dealer rotors and be done with it when the time comes. This decision comes after comparing the Honda/dealer intake air filter to NAPA, Autozone, Oreillys and CARQUEST and are no comparison to the Honda part, period. Even the Wix oil filter does not come close to the Honda oil filter either (I compared an Amsoil filter also)........