Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

21 - 26 of 26 Posts

228 Posts
Good job man, yeah I never look forward to doing Honda suspension work. Just got done replacing the trailing arm bushings and compensator arms (toe arms) in my CRX. Also had a couple of seized bolts/bushings as well.

Also, you did a lot of work just to reuse the original saggy springs. I replaced mine with OME springs and absolutely love the way it rides.

5 Posts
Thanks CRnotVtec.
I opted for the KYB struts + OEM springs after I couldn't convince myself on any of the coilover packs I could find. Trust me, I didn't want to do the extra work with the spring compressor (which I had no experience but actually turned out to be the easiest part of the job).

For every loaded strut assembly I could find, I also found accounts of unhappy (particularly rear 'bouncy') experiences, from cheap Chinese options like FCS/QSC, to Monroe and even Gabriel coilovers had the same issues according to reviews I saw.

People who reused the original springs with new KYB or Bilstein struts seemed to think it was closest to OEM ride, so that is what I went with.

I'm pretty pleased with the ride quality and there is no observable 'sag' in the car's stance (visually at least), so I'm satisfied :)

3 Posts
Hey all, I inherited a 2000 CR-V with 145k that has been in the family for the previous two owners. To say they neglected it would be an understatement.

I've put a fair amount of effort into bringing her back up to snuff
  • rear diff fluid changed
  • transmission fluid changed
  • rear bearings
  • timing belt
  • valve adjustment
  • new valve cover gasket
  • new plugs and wires
  • new battery and windshield (ugh)
After all that, I finally felt like I wouldn't get stranded on the side of the road. It was time to pay attention to the exhausted shocks and horrid ride quality.

I went with KYBs and decided to reuse the original springs as this seems to be the best option in relation to ride quality from the consensus online.

Without reading, I decided to go after the rear first as it looked easier. Boy, was I wrong.

Started on driver's side, snapped rear shock bolt. Used a sawzall to free the shock from the lower control arm. However, I still couldn't remove the shock because of the angle it had been cut at. I had to remove the LCA to get the shock out. Then grind the welded shock nut off of the LCA. Replacement M10x1.25 nut can be had at Home Depot.
PITA but fairly easy fix.

View attachment 135394

View attachment 135395

Then to the passenger side: I was planning on the shock bolt snapping and it did. In an overconfident move, I went after the outer LCA bolt with a breaker bar. I had soaked all with PB blaster for a few days but I should have wire brushed the threads and worked it back and fourth...the head sheared right off just like streetbikejay.

I went ahead and cut the outer LCA bushing as streetbikejay did and had the welded nut left (with bolt remnants) inside the little box on the lower side of the trailing arm. View attachment 135389

I went after it with a 3/8" metal drill bit, though the LCA, back of the vehicle towards the front. I had had a few drinks so I went a bit overboard, as you can see from the photo. No harm no foul, though. I made it well into the nut.
View attachment 135390

I tried to bash it with an extension as hard as I could but the tack welds wouldn't budge. Tip: remove the rear splash guard to get better leverage with a sledge. Also, support the trailing arm with a jack to prevent the other bushings from absorbing all the sledge force.

Ended up regrouping and grabbing a set of cold chisels and punches from harbor freight (#66440) and forming a plan. I ended up using these tools in the following order:
Dremel with cutoff wheel
Dremel with EZ metal cutting wheel (#456)
Oscillating multi-tool with titanium metal blade (harbor freight #64963)
Cold chisel

I'm pretty sure the multitool was the smoking gun. It allowed me to cut a niche large enough to get the cold chisel a divot to bite into. After I could get the cold chisel in there, it was all over.

Finally, I saw the light...there is a hole there!!

View attachment 135391

Jumped to the backside and used a punch and voila!

View attachment 135392

Finally I had a 'clean' mounting point.

View attachment 135393

Anyway, right to putting it back together. My lower control arm's outer bushing was toast because I didn't cut it close enough to the control arm. Instead of pushing a new bushing in I just ordered a new control arm.

If you go to Honda to get the shock bolt you snapped, its $5 and change, however they want ~$15 for the LCA bolts.
You can find a Class 10.9 10-1.25mm bolt for much cheaper than that if you look around. Should be the same based upon torque but use your own judgment.

After I got all 4 installed the ride is improved so much that I almost enjoy hitting bumps.
By the way, the fronts are much easier than the rears so keep your head up.

Thanks a bunch to this forum, I would have been up a creek without your help!

View attachment 135396
Do you know the part number for the bottom strut bolt that mounts through the LCA? I can't find it anywhere.

5 Posts
You're specifically referring to the shock bolt, correct? Originally, this thread was regarding the LCA bolts.

My shock bolt did also break off...the replacement shock bolt I used came from Honda dealership in town.
The parts counter knew exactly what I was talking about when I went in. That bolt was ~$5 bucks, however the LCA bolts...they wanted ~$15 a piece for.

I went ahead and bought the shock bolt from them but used a class 10.9 bolt for the LCA bolts that sheared off.

Not 100% sure but I think these are the replacement shock bolts
I used a class 10.9 bolt that was 10 x 1.25 threads which I believe I got at Home Depot. Based upon the torque spec, you should be able to use either Class 8.8 or Class 10.9 bolt, but I wouldn't use anything lower than that.


21 - 26 of 26 Posts