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2000 Honda CR-V, 190,000
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
First post here and I am hoping someone has run into this issue before.

Vehicle is a 2000 CRV auto transmission, 180,000 miles.

A while back, while on my way home from work, the "D" light on the instrument cluster began to blink. I pulled into the driveway and shut the car off, and after a restart, the light remained blinking. The car gets next to no power in drive, while reverse works just fine. I have not been in the area to be able to run diagnostic codes, but I should have them in a couple of days. I have read that a 3rd clutch pressure sensor could be the culprit, but only on 2nd gen CRVs, I have not seen anything like that for the 1st gen make. As in the title, the transmission fluid was checked while warm and on level ground (car not running) and all other fluids are topped off. I am really hoping that this is not a major transmission fault because I really like this car.

Thanks in advance.
 

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D blinking iirc is bad tcu TRANSMISSION CONTROL UNIT.(for civics and accords)
Remove solenoids and make sure filters and mesh are clean. Same for plugs having a strong connection, one might be loose.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Be sure to keep us up on how this goes.
 

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2000 Honda CR-V, 190,000
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Discussion Starter #5
Hi guys,

So 2 codes pulled from the car;

p1298 (electric load detector)
p1768 (faulty clutch pressure control solenoid valve)

The ELD looks like a pretty easy fix and I do not believe it has anything to do with this problem, so I am going to focus in on the p1768. From what I can gather, the clutch pressure solenoid is the linear solenoid on the top of the transmission. Everything that the car is doing, blinking light, rough shifts, etc. points to this part from what I can tell. If any of you have any guidance on repairing this or if you have had any luck with it in the past, please do not hesitate to share.

Here's a picture of the solenoid in question.
138959
 

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Possibly mentioned already, but remove and clean valves and screens. Prior give a listen to actuation of valve with 12v and ground. How does it sound? Nice and crisp clicks or dull thuds or such. After cleaning listen again to it.
 

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1999 Honda CR-V
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My 1999 also has been throwing P1768 and I could be wrong but I think you are off track on the same rabbit hole I almost fell down. The cause of P1768 in the Accords is NOT the same as the cause of P1768 in the first gen CRV, I think. The issue is you google it and run across more accord info than CR-V info and you get mixed up.

I think the solenoid you are actually after is one of the pair on the passenger-side front, one of these:

I bought one but have not installed it yet. Even if I installed it right now I don't go anywhere because of virus stuff, and it takes a good 50+ miles sometime for the issue to come back after clearing the code with a scanner (yet sometimes it comes back much sooner).

I don't want to lead you off track, I don't know if I am correct about this, but I will find out soon enough if I get this new pair of solenoids swapped in and get some miles on to test. I have already put fresh transmission fluid in mine (4x drain/refills with 20+ miles between each refill) and I had this solenoid pair out, my screens were clean but one of them did not "click" as good as the other on the bench test. I don't know for sure but just take the accord info you read with a grain of salt its not exactly the same as with the CRVs I don't think.

Maybe you try your solenoid and I'll try mine and we'll see who has a running car not in limp mode first :p
 

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2000 Honda CR-V, 190,000
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Discussion Starter #10
My 1999 also has been throwing P1768 and I could be wrong but I think you are off track on the same rabbit hole I almost fell down. The cause of P1768 in the Accords is NOT the same as the cause of P1768 in the first gen CRV, I think. The issue is you google it and run across more accord info than CR-V info and you get mixed up.

I think the solenoid you are actually after is one of the pair on the passenger-side front, one of these:

I bought one but have not installed it yet. Even if I installed it right now I don't go anywhere because of virus stuff, and it takes a good 50+ miles sometime for the issue to come back after clearing the code with a scanner (yet sometimes it comes back much sooner).

I don't want to lead you off track, I don't know if I am correct about this, but I will find out soon enough if I get this new pair of solenoids swapped in and get some miles on to test. I have already put fresh transmission fluid in mine (4x drain/refills with 20+ miles between each refill) and I had this solenoid pair out, my screens were clean but one of them did not "click" as good as the other on the bench test. I don't know for sure but just take the accord info you read with a grain of salt its not exactly the same as with the CRVs I don't think.

Maybe you try your solenoid and I'll try mine and we'll see who has a running car not in limp mode first :p
Haha I think that is a good idea, unfortunately I've already ordered the part and will be swapping out some time in the next week or so - we can report back here with what we find. Did your D light flash as well?
 

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1999 Honda CR-V
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It looks like I was wrong, this thread gave me the motivation to go out and swap the solenoid pair and attempt a test drive but its having exactly the same issues before with basically no change, so it seems I am out that $32 I paid for that part but at least I didn't pay the local parts store the $238 they were asking for the same part.

Will be curious to see if the one obaker15 ordered solves the problem for him, if so I'll have to order one up as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
car isn’t near you ?
Correct, the car is in Cleveland and I am in Columbus. Normally it would not be a problem, but with the travel restrictions in place + self quarantining to avoid getting anyone sick, I want to be as sure as I can that the problem that I am fixing is the one that actually needs fixed.
 

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Correct, the car is in Cleveland and I am in Columbus. Normally it would not be a problem, but with the travel restrictions in place + self quarantining to avoid getting anyone sick, I want to be as sure as I can that the problem that I am fixing is the one that actually needs fixed.
That makes it as hard for you to troubleshoot as it does us !
 

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1999 Honda CR-V
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I ordered up the same part that he did since the solenoid pair I first tried didn't help. I will get it on Saturday, which is going to be a busy day for me and rain is in the forecast so I don't know for sure if I will be able to install it and try it out but I will try to get that done so I can report back whether it helped for the issue we both have.
 

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2001 CR-V
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One of your symptoms (hard shifting) is usually caused by non-Honda tranny fluid. Do you know the service history on this vehicle? I try to do a drain-n-fill with 4 or 5 litres of Honda fluid every year.
 

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1999 Honda CR-V
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Curlysback said:
One of your symptoms (hard shifting) is usually caused by non-Honda tranny fluid.
😂😂😂 Thanks for the thought but I'm quite certain there is nothing wrong with the Valvoline MaxLife fluid for a gen 1 CRV automatic, excellent full-synthetic ATF product that tons of CRV owners use all the time with great success. Many positive testimonies on this forum alone.

And to be clear, we are not talking about 'hard shifting' through forward gears. We don't actually get ANY shifting between forward gears, we are stuck in "limp mode" when P1768 throws which means you only get 3rd gear no matter what speed you are going. The "hard shifting" we mean is the slamming that occurs when we go from park or neutral into drive or reverse, and this occurs because the solenoid that is supposed to be regulating the line pressure of the transmission fluid is failed or has wiring issue (cause of P1768) so the line pressure in the transmission is high when it shouldn't be.
 

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One of your symptoms (hard shifting) is usually caused by non-Honda tranny fluid. Do you know the service history on this vehicle? I try to do a drain-n-fill with 4 or 5 litres of Honda fluid every year.
Curly Q!! Long time no see! I was wondering where you'd gone to.

Agreed on Honda ATF--changing to something else is asking for problems. DW-1 is cheap enough--I paid $5.74/qt. last July for a case when I placed a large parts order. No excuse not to buy it. Still cheaper than a new transmission even at $8/qt.

Honda, not backyard mechanics or aftermarket oil companies, knows what is best for their transmissions, since their internal construction is not the same as others out there (see below). Notice the modifiers in DW-1 compared to the other two brands tested in the following link. DW-1 has much higher concentrations of magnesium, zinc and calcium compared to MaxLife.


Aside from Honda's newest ten speed automatic (Odyssey, which is a planetary gear transmission) and the 8-speed dual-clutch transmission with a torque converter (in the 4-cylinder Acura TLX, for example), the rest of their automatics use friction clutches in their transmission, as opposed to planetary gear sets that just about all other automatic transmissions use. In theory, internal operation is similar to an automated manual transmission. So the added elements (magnesium, zinc and calcium) in the DW-1 are important to aid with the slipping and engagement of those clutches.
 

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2001 CR-V
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Wildcat, good to see you !
I don’t want to get too far OT, but do you remember, several years ago there were a couple different CR-V owners who concluded that the internal strainer (filter) in their trannies were plugging up, prohibiting them from going more than a few miles before they simply lost forward drive? Then, after shutting it down on the roadside for a few minutes, they could go again, maybe a mile, maybe five?
Since a tranny in that condition is basically SHOT, has anybody figured a way to back-flush that internal strainer and suck out the crud without dismantling the tranny?
There’s a bunch of access points, externally. I have the shop manual for the tranny, but boy, try following all those passages . . . Yikes !
 

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I thought I had read of something similar on an Accord forum--the notoriously bad B7XA (which we had in my kiddo's 2002 Accord V6). Or maybe it was on one of the Acura forums for the early TL. Somehow I think they found where they hooked something up that allegedly reversed the pressure so it could clear the screen. But I think it also risked blowing a hole in the screen or flushing some nasty crud further back into the transmission.

My '97 is still here, and the parking pawl gets stuck in Park. (I have to leave it parked in Neutral.) Nobody was ever able to help with that one. But I think I can access it from the end of the transmission without having to remove it. Maybe I can see what's wrong and fix it before I sell it off.
 
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