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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For the those that weren't following I detailed my audio and sound deadening build here:

Speaker Upgrade and Sound Deadening Build Log https://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179442

Short of it is that I installed:
-Sound Deadener Showdown everything underneath the windows
-Infinity Kappa 60.11cs in front and rear doors
-Replaced oem sub with Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD4-8, in oem box/location (& disabled ANC)

Note this is all done with the oem head unit and amp. The final broken piece is the stock head unit eq/sound processing. The eq is terrible. Luckily, you can install a pretty incredible sound processing subsystem on the head unit called Viper4Android. This is more than an eq and more deeply improves sound processing.

First, you have to root the head unit and install HondaHack. Instructions are available elsewhere.

Next, you need to download onto a fat32 formatted usb drive:

1: supersu and BusyBox from here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-how-to-enter-developer-mode-2017-t3621582/post79246951#post79246951

2: Viper4Android from here: http://www.autohack.org/apk/

Using Honda Hack, install supersu first and reboot. Then install BusyBox. Open BusyBox once you install it and follow the instructions inside the app to install it 'deeper'. (This is reversible). Finally, install Viper4Android app and open it up and install the sound driver. Probably need to reboot again but done.

Once installed go into the settings and force it to always use Bluetooth audio effect mode. That's it. Go into the fx sound settings and have fun.

Before doing too much you might want to go to the OEM eq and set everything to flat.

EDIT: as @Breaultk mentions below, there's an app for setting the default dsp to flat on non-premium-sound models: Look here for it.

I can't emphasize enough how much of a difference this makes. The sound is much more complete. There's no more dropouts in the mid ranges and the bottom end came back from nowhere.

Do not try to use newer versions of the apps. Newer viper doesn't work with our head unit and use different supersu and BusyBox at your own risk.

I'll make a follow up post with my eq settings, but I would love if others also did this and posted your speaker setup and Viper4Android settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This post outlines my settings. Please note that I tuned this by ear to the style of music I listen to most (live jazz / improv, hiphop) and also some settings noted below are designed for my specific speaker setup. Official webpage and description here: http://vipersaudio.com/blog/?page_id=43 .


Non-Viper Settings:
  • HondaHack: Very minimal setup. Almost everything is turned off and I especially am not doing anything with audio routing in there.
  • OEM / Stock Honda Audio Settings: Low/Mid/High eq all set to 0dB / center
  • OEM / Stock Honda Balance Settings: Front/Rear and Left/Right set to neutral. I like my rear speakers a little quieter, and in the 'neutral' setting Honda has the rear speakers set quieter.
  • OEM / Stock Honda Subwoofer output: turned all of the way up (only there with OEM sub, you might not have this)
For the FX Settings, as you can in the photos it is really easy to turn on some music and toggle one effect on and off to hear the effect.

Viper Settings
  • Show Notification: On (swipe down from top of home screen to access viper)
  • Lock Effect Mode: Bluetooth (then you only need to edit settings in bluetooth - unknown how this works with hondahack audio routing settings!)
  • FX Compatible Mode: Normal (default)
  • Set default storage: /storage/emulated/0/ (default)
FX Settings - Bluetooth Device
anything not mentioned below will be 'off'
  • Master Power: On
  • Playback Gain Control: On : Slight
  • Spectrum Extension: On : 0.7 : (turn off for lossless music) - helps undo compression artifacts
  • FIREqualizer: On - see description below
  • Differential Surround: On : 2 ms delay - I really like this effect. See Haas Effect for more info.
  • ViPER Bass: On : Natural Bass, 40 Hz - tuned to the range on my subwoofer
  • ViPER Clarity: On : XHiFi - 3.5dB - on the fence, but I felt it helped balance the bass
  • AnalogX: On : Slight : supposed to mimic the sound of a class A amp. I liked it <shrug>
  • Master Gate (Limiter): Default values : this is supposed to help with clipping - beyond my expertise to change
For the FIREqualizer, I tuned this to my specific setup, which has components and a sub. Under the OEM sound settings, my Infinity tweeters are overpowering and mids/bass are lost a bit... so much so that you can hear the tweeters and mid speakers as separated sound sources from each other (bad!). So I tuned the equalizer to reduce the tweeter frequencies and increase the bass/mid frequencies, and the results, combined with the other settings above, is that I just hear "music" and not separate lows/mids/highs, which is a significant upgrade - I thought I would eventually put in an aftermarket amp with an LC2i to get here... I don't need it at all!

Here are the specs of my aftermarket speakers, which are important since I want to address the issues I mentioned using the FIREqualizer.
SpeakerFreq. Response
RF-Subwoofer38Hz-250Hz
Infinity-Door Woofer45Hz-~2,000Hz
Infinity-Tweeter~2,000Hz-35,000Hz

The strategy is to raise the sub levels and mid levels, and especially the levels where the different speakers overlap. Then, I significantly suppress the tweeter-only frequencies to address the aforementioned tinniness.

IMG_20190424_122945.jpg

Here are a few more pictures just for showing off Viper and what it looks like:
IMG_20190424_122848.jpg

IMG_20190424_122858.jpg

IMG_20190424_122907.jpg

Please post your own speaker setup, what amp and sub you have (if any), your own audio settings and results!
 

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Nice job, mnestrud, as usual! I remember reading your "old" thread and envying your sound deadening process. Wish I had the ability to have done that with my CR-V.

I took a different, albeit more expensive route to sound nirvana.
 

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Just to add to your post, you should be setting the dsp to flat. So that the EQ is actually starting with a zerod out signal

There is someone in the xda forums that released an . Apk that you just run that does this automatically everytime you start the car. Real easy to do.

Problem I have right now is knowing what to set the EQ to. At a loss for that after replacing all my speakers, adding a 4 channel amp, and subwoofer and amp.
 

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Thanks for sharing. I might try that.

You inspired me to go for sound deadning as well. It took me 1 weekend day/door, but, two weeks after, I am very pleased with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to add to your post, you should be setting the dsp to flat. So that the EQ is actually starting with a zerod out signal
There is someone in the xda forums that released an . Apk that you just run that does this automatically everytime you start the car. Real easy to do.
Problem I have right now is knowing what to set the EQ to. At a loss for that after replacing all my speakers, adding a 4 channel amp, and subwoofer and amp.
Absolutely @Breaultk - dsp flat is great advice. Here is the link!

Note it is not for anyone on the touring or ex-l with upgraded sound (oem amp + sub). It won't break anything, it just doesn't work.

This is those with the basic oem system. What this does is 'reset' the tuning of the oem head unit to a neutral start position, which provides a 'clean start' for Viper4Android.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-how-to-enter-developer-mode-2017-t3621582/post76604112#post76604112

I will post my settings to the reserved post so hopefully that can help folks.
 

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Absolutely @Breaultk - dsp flat is great advice. Here is the link!

Note it is not for anyone on the touring or ex-l with upgraded sound (oem amp + sub). It won't break anything, it just doesn't work.

This is those with the basic oem system. What this does is 'reset' the tuning of the oem head unit to a neutral start position, which provides a 'clean start' for Viper4Android.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/guide-how-to-enter-developer-mode-2017-t3621582/post76604112#post76604112

I will post my settings to the reserved post so hopefully that can help folks.
Like your settings for viper4android? Even though my speakers and subwoofer will be different than yours I'd be very interested to see what you settled on for tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for sharing. I might try that.

You inspired me to go for sound deadning as well. It took me 1 weekend day/door, but, two weeks after, I am very pleased with the results.
Awesome! Glad to hear it. You have to love car projects to take it on for sure, but it is fun and rewarding.
 

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Awesome! Glad to hear it. You have to love car projects to take it on for sure, but it is fun and rewarding.
Yep, I also had fun installing the footwell lights, the illuminated door sills, the HD tuner, a dashcam...

And I followed your V4A instructions. One more time: Many tanks for that! It makes quite a difference, indeed!

I didn't mention it before, but I also installed an older Kenwood subwoofer under my seat: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BO8O9XQ.

kenwood.jpg

I made some frequency response measurements using the Audio Tools app and an Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated microphone, pointed towards the right door and the Audio sweeps sent only to the right door (Fading +9, Balance +9)

Here are the 3 responses collected using an A-weighted curve.
1. using default settings with all controls set in the middle and the subwoofer volume set to 0
2. using default settings with all controls set in the middle and the subwoofer volume set to 10/15, crossover at 50Hz
3. using your V4A settings and the subwoofer volume set to 10/15

Capture.jpg

As we can see V4A is adding an additional boost for the lower frequencies, but it is not enough. I need more boosting there.
On the other hand, we still have a way too strong response around 125Hz and again a weak mid-range response between 250Hz and 1Khz.

This is why I applied these corrections, instead of yours:

correction.jpg

It was too late for for the final measurement, but according to the peak values I was seeing live on my display, these settings bring the response closer to linear.
I still had a dip between 500Hz and 1Khz, I was unable to fix. We need a more accurate equalizer for that ;)

This will be my starting point for further tuning to something that I like, even if it will slightly deviate from the optimal response.

Anyway, I like were I landed so far. I'll do more tests and measurements this weekend.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, I also had fun installing the footwell lights, the illuminated door sills, the HD tuner, a dashcam...

And I followed your V4A instructions. One more time: Many tanks for that! It makes quite a difference, indeed!

Anyway, I like were I landed so far. I'll do more tests and measurements this weekend.

Thanks again!
Oh that is pretty great work. I looked up that mic, I had it in my head that they would cost $100+. Now there is another gadget that I need. Which speakers are in there?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Yep, I also had fun installing the footwell lights, the illuminated door sills, the HD tuner, a dashcam...

And I followed your V4A instructions. One more time: Many tanks for that! It makes quite a difference, indeed!

Anyway, I like were I landed so far. I'll do more tests and measurements this weekend.

Thanks again!
Oh that is pretty great work. I looked up that mic, I had it in my head that they would cost $100+. Now there is another gadget that I need. Which speakers are in there?
In have these Pioneer speakers, within the same price range as your Infinity Kappas:

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/A-Series/TS-A652C
 

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Hey just a question, all those pics of the EQ, are those the settings after applying flat dsp or no?
I applied the flat dsp settings as advised, but either they did noting, or they the HU came back with the same settings, after rebooting, without having to re-launch them each time, with the tasker, as suggested on XDA forum.
 

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That DSP Flat apk is kinda evil. Don't set it as an autostart app in HH. You can end up in a scenario where you get stuck in a grayed out Syscom Free Mode menu if you run the app more than once between hard reboots. It either starts too early or you're not able to get that hard reboot without pulling the appropriate fuse or battery.

But even then, you may face a situation where you have to use the HH recovery script and re-root to escape it.

This is why I hate the idea of how Viper works on this head unit. It's even riskier than Flat DSP in some respects and you lose that "keep stuff out of /system unless you know what you're doing" mentality that HH tries to promote.

Think about what's involved here.

* SuperSu: It wants to install its own su binary and you need to be careful to decline. Only used for the whitelisting that HH somehow isn't doing at times. Root apps like Solid Explorer don't even need this.
* Busybox: Doesn't HH already ship with a slightly older but valid version?
* Viper: The driver. Where the hell does that end up?

There are so many conflicting sets of instructions on how to get this working.

Not to mention that it's a nightmare to clean up manually, especially when I don't even trust the head unit's factory reset behavior to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There are so many conflicting sets of instructions on how to get this working.

Not to mention that it's a nightmare to clean up manually, especially when I don't even trust the head unit's factory reset behavior to begin with.
You bring up some great points. I've been using Linux since 97 and rooting (and recovering) Android phones for a decade. Where I've seen mistakes is when folks do too much ( hence the Honda Hack service news article). I made it a point to provide working directions and call out that I'm not using any other apps or HH features to prevent conflicts.

I've read the entire xda thread and posted a set of instructions that worked for me and at least one other person. But you're also right in the risks and the confusing instructions depending on where you look.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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How are you playing your media (bluetooth, carplay, etc.)

I installed everything although I couldn't figure out where you installed busybox "deeper".

When I turn on the different connection types, I don't hear any change playing with the EQ on any of them (after turning on).

I primarily use carplay for Waze and use both iheart radio and spotify.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How are you playing your media (bluetooth, carplay, etc.)

I installed everything although I couldn't figure out where you installed busybox "deeper".

When I turn on the different connection types, I don't hear any change playing with the EQ on any of them (after turning on).

I primarily use carplay for Waze and use both iheart radio and spotify.

Thanks!
Open the BusyBox app iirc. I use Android auto... Make sure in addition to BusyBox, you have the master viper switch turned on.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
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