Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of October's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 72k on her now. I plan on swapping out plugs at 75k. I am curious what plugs other are using. Anyone know what the OEM plug is? I buy my parts from rockauto. all thoughts are encouraged?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I would recommend NGK or Denso spark plugs. They have always served me well in the dozens of Japanese vehicles that I have owned over the past 30 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Agreed. Asian vehicles are using ngk or denso. American vehicles usually use AC, motorcraft or champion.
BTW, don't waste you money on fancy marketed plugs like iridium, platinum, split fire or any that other stuff. Pure garbage. Just get copper cored resistor plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Agreed. Asian vehicles are using ngk or denso. American vehicles usually use AC, motorcraft or champion.
BTW, don't waste you money on fancy marketed plugs like iridium, platinum, split fire or any that other stuff. Pure garbage. Just get copper cored resistor plugs.
The plugs that Honda uses in the 10-14 CR-V are NKG or Denso Iridium.

NKG Honda part #: 12290-R40-A01

Another number they go by is: ILZKR7B-11S
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey, thanks for the great and quick feedback. I'm going to go with the NGK ILZKR7B-11S. Rockauto has them for $8.5 each.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A couple of quick questions since I'm getting great advice. Does anyone know the torque specs for the plugs and should I use anti-seize on the plugs?
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
11,813 Posts
I never use a torque wrench on the plugs, just my calibrated arm. Most plugs these days have a coating that is supposed to make anti-seize unnecessary, but I'm 'old school' and use it anyway. This affects the torque value, of course.

Some plugs' instructions say to turn them until the sealing washer contacts, then another 3/4 turn.

I'm sure someone with an actual shop manual will post the actual, un-lubricated value.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again. I've been using anti seize on plugs for years but recently I've been told it's not needed and we know it does effect torque. I'll let you know what I end up doing.
 

·
Not-a-Mechanic
2011 CR-V 4WD EX
Joined
·
526 Posts
Recently did mine at 100k, they looked great, now to get the valves adjusted....
I used a small bit of anti-sieze, ignored the extra torque for such a small bit. Looked up the torque for giggles, compared it to the contact + 3/4 turn, it was identical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Clean your Throttle Body before installing the new Spark plugs.. Make sure to RESET the PCM and Do Idle & CKP Relearn procedure.

55k miles
Auto part Carburetor Automotive engine part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
How do you do the idle relearn procedure?
Start the car with all accessories off (HVAC, radio, etc) allow the car to idle until the cooling fan cycles twice.

One should only use the Honda specified plugs. There is no reason to change them before the normal interval of 105,000 miles.
You would be much better off leaving the very expensive plugs in there rather than changing them to some economy find. If you must play with it, remove them and inspect. You will be surprised at their condition.
 

·
Registered
2013 CRV EX FWD
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
Start the car with all accessories off (HVAC, radio, etc) allow the car to idle until the cooling fan cycles twice.

One should only use the Honda specified plugs. There is no reason to change them before the normal interval of 105,000 miles.
You would be much better off leaving the very expensive plugs in there rather than changing them to some economy find. If you must play with it, remove them and inspect. You will be surprised at their condition.
Thanks for the info. I have quite a while until my plugs need to be replaced but never knew how to do the idle relearn procedure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,973 Posts
That is not the recommended Idle Relearn Procedure:
Most of the time you need top clear the PCM etc by disconnecting for around 15 min or so. Not sure if this is necessary, but I do it.

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear
window defogger, lights, etc.,) are off.
2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no
load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes
on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches
194°F (90°C).
3. Let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes with
no load.
NOTE: If the radiator fan cycles during this time, do
not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

During that time you are not supposed to turn anything electrical items on (radio, fan, any lights, etc) and not to open or close any doors that would trigger an interior light, etc.
 

·
Registered
2013 CRV EX FWD
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
That is not the recommended Idle Relearn Procedure:
Most of the time you need top clear the PCM etc by disconnecting for around 15 min or so. Not sure if this is necessary, but I do it.

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear
window defogger, lights, etc.,) are off.
2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no
load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes
on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches
194°F (90°C).
3. Let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes with
no load.
NOTE: If the radiator fan cycles during this time, do
not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

During that time you are not supposed to turn anything electrical items on (radio, fan, any lights, etc) and not to open or close any doors that would trigger an interior light, etc.
Awesome! Thanks for the information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,973 Posts
Should have said 'disconnecting the battery' , not just disconnecting.
Usually easier to just disconnect the neg term cable clamp of the battery, and then just touch the neg (disconnected) battery cable clamp to the positive cable clamp to discharge any capacitors, etc and then just put the neg battery clamp back onto the battery neg post.
NEVER short the neg to the positive if they are both connected to the battery posts. If one is off, that is fine. A direct short can cause the battery to explode, etc.
Also, after the engine idles for 5 min or more, turn the key to OFF.
It is done and you can then drive it right after that.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I had my guy replace my rear pads and rotors and install new sparkplugs. I bought NGK's. I have 90k on her. Here's a pic of the plugs. Thoughts. I bought Centric rotors and Akebono ProAct pads from rockauto.


Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
11,813 Posts
They look as if they are burning well. Can't judge the gap from the picture.


The one with the 'dark' threads: probably something leaked into the spark plug well? But the electrode seems fine.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top