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Spark plug recommendations for 2014?

13K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Carbuff2 
#1 ·
I have about 72k on her now. I plan on swapping out plugs at 75k. I am curious what plugs other are using. Anyone know what the OEM plug is? I buy my parts from rockauto. all thoughts are encouraged?
 
#3 ·
Agreed. Asian vehicles are using ngk or denso. American vehicles usually use AC, motorcraft or champion.
BTW, don't waste you money on fancy marketed plugs like iridium, platinum, split fire or any that other stuff. Pure garbage. Just get copper cored resistor plugs.
 
#7 ·
I never use a torque wrench on the plugs, just my calibrated arm. Most plugs these days have a coating that is supposed to make anti-seize unnecessary, but I'm 'old school' and use it anyway. This affects the torque value, of course.

Some plugs' instructions say to turn them until the sealing washer contacts, then another 3/4 turn.

I'm sure someone with an actual shop manual will post the actual, un-lubricated value.
 
#10 ·
Recently did mine at 100k, they looked great, now to get the valves adjusted....
I used a small bit of anti-sieze, ignored the extra torque for such a small bit. Looked up the torque for giggles, compared it to the contact + 3/4 turn, it was identical.
 
#13 ·
Start the car with all accessories off (HVAC, radio, etc) allow the car to idle until the cooling fan cycles twice.

One should only use the Honda specified plugs. There is no reason to change them before the normal interval of 105,000 miles.
You would be much better off leaving the very expensive plugs in there rather than changing them to some economy find. If you must play with it, remove them and inspect. You will be surprised at their condition.
 
#15 ·
That is not the recommended Idle Relearn Procedure:
Most of the time you need top clear the PCM etc by disconnecting for around 15 min or so. Not sure if this is necessary, but I do it.

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear
window defogger, lights, etc.,) are off.
2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no
load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes
on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches
194°F (90°C).
3. Let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes with
no load.
NOTE: If the radiator fan cycles during this time, do
not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

During that time you are not supposed to turn anything electrical items on (radio, fan, any lights, etc) and not to open or close any doors that would trigger an interior light, etc.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Should have said 'disconnecting the battery' , not just disconnecting.
Usually easier to just disconnect the neg term cable clamp of the battery, and then just touch the neg (disconnected) battery cable clamp to the positive cable clamp to discharge any capacitors, etc and then just put the neg battery clamp back onto the battery neg post.
NEVER short the neg to the positive if they are both connected to the battery posts. If one is off, that is fine. A direct short can cause the battery to explode, etc.
Also, after the engine idles for 5 min or more, turn the key to OFF.
It is done and you can then drive it right after that.
Buffalo4
 
#18 ·
I had my guy replace my rear pads and rotors and install new sparkplugs. I bought NGK's. I have 90k on her. Here's a pic of the plugs. Thoughts. I bought Centric rotors and Akebono ProAct pads from rockauto.


Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
They look as if they are burning well. Can't judge the gap from the picture.


The one with the 'dark' threads: probably something leaked into the spark plug well? But the electrode seems fine.
 
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