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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am looking to replace the spark plugs on my 2006 CRV EX FWD. I bought the car
used with 135k miles. The fuel economy is poor 16.6mpg in town driving. Yuk.

I believe they are to be tightened to 13 foot pounds or 156 inch pounds.
So the age old question about torque wrenches:
What do you have/use for replacing your spark plugs.

I want to get the NGK Iridium plugs. They are about $10 each.
Thanks,

Kevin
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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NGK or Denso Iridium plugs are the best according to most folks. They come pre-gapped.

Unless you have very strong hands :) you need to tighten them with a tool (especially seeing how they are deep inside the valve cover 'well').

I tighten by hand then go 1/2 turn farther with the ratchet.

If you want to use a torque wrench, buy a low-value inch-pound wrench. Remember, torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle of their range.


++++++++++++

Before you tear your hair out about in-town MPG, fill up the tank, drive at least 100 miles, then re-fill. Measure MPG and post back here.
 

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Stay with the factory spec spark plugs. Check out RockAuto.com. I use them. They are a good source for parts. Cheers!
 

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I would suggest when changing the plugs replace them when the engine is stone cold. As if you were to replace them when the engine is hot, they will loosen up when the engine gets cold. I prefer NGK for spark plugs. Follow what the other members are suggesting you can not go wrong in installing the plugs. While you are doing that I would also suggest to replace the PCV valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Carbuff,

The last fillup was with 87 miles and used 5.24 gallons to fill. To be fair though
there were a few mornings here at 14 degrees Fahrenheit. I let the car warm up for 10 minutes
before driving to work. So maybe the mileage thing is not so bad in town considering the warm up.

But I really do not know when the spark plugs were last changed. Carfax shows they were changed in 2009 with about 77k miles. So maybe the plugs are OK.
Thanks,

Kevin
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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You could replace the plugs just for your own benefit....but FWIW I changed mine @ 120K miles and the gaps were spot-on. (That's why you pay extra for Iridium, they last).



Fill up the tank and GO FOR A RIDE. (No short trips, no warm up...90 minutes of driving) Refill after ~100 miles. Let us know the results. (Consider the gas used, a diagnostic test)

I bet you get more between 22 and 27 MPG, which is the EPA range.
 

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Before you pull them, go and buy the four new NGK's so you have them on hand just in case. Then since you have the old ones out anyway you may as well just go ahead and stick those new ones in. As mentioned they're pre-gapped, never use a metal gap tool on iridium plugs. I put a dab of anti-seize on the threads and go about 1/4 turn past hand tight.

Then stick with Top-Tier gas. It really does make a difference, even with the plugs.
 

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You could replace the plugs just for your own benefit....but FWIW I changed mine @ 120K miles and the gaps were spot-on. (That's why you pay extra for Iridium, they last).

I noticed that our '06 seemed to take a little longer to get up to speed for the shift to 4th, that would push it to 70 & plus when entering the Interstates. A new set of spark plugs fixed this at 90K miles, 20K before the maintenance schedule recommended. It now pulls without the struggle through the shift to 4th and beyond.
 

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Might as well look at your automatic transmission fluid and see if it still looks good. Any doubt about it, do at least one drain and fill. If it looks real dark, I would do 4 drain and fills with Honda DW-1 (not Honda Z-1 :eek) ), Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc (around $18/gal jug at WalMart) or another synthetic atf that is approved for your CRV.
Is it shifting into lockup? What is your rpm at 60 mph?
If it isn't shifting into torque converter lockup, you mpg will suffer a lot.
Ditto on the recommended NGK or Denso spark plugs only.
Use high quality motor oil of the rec specs and a good oil filter and engine air filter.
If you haven't looked at the cabin air filter, it is something you should check.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You could replace the plugs just for your own benefit....but FWIW I changed mine @ 120K miles and the gaps were spot-on. (That's why you pay extra for Iridium, they last).


Fill up the tank and GO FOR A RIDE. (No short trips, no warm up...90 minutes of driving) Refill after ~100 miles. Let us know the results. (Consider the gas used, a diagnostic test)

I bet you get more between 22 and 27 MPG, which is the EPA range.
Hi Carbuff2,

I have not replaced the spark plugs just yet. I had the car in the shop to replace a rear tailgate lock. It would not lock with the key or with the key fob. So that took about a week because when they ordered the part on a Monday and called them on Thursday and the company never shipped the part. So I did not get my car back until Monday this week - 12/7.

So I replaced the engine air filter with a Wix brand and the cabin filters also with Wix filters.
The cabin filters were very dirty. The engine air filter did not seem too dirty. But since I had
the replacement I just put it in.

With about 40 miles of in town driving I went for a ride this afternoon.
I got 100.9 miles on 4.79 gallons of gas. Or about 21mpg.

The RPM at 60mph sits just below the 2000 mark. You can actually see a sliver of space
between the rpm needle and the 2K mark while cruising at 60. So I'm thinking that is OK.

If I have time tomorrow I will try the driving test again. Stone cold and no warm ups.
I'll report back after that just to see how it does on mostly highway driving.

I really appreciate the feedback here. I am glad to find so many helpful CRV owners. :)
 

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A 10 minute warm-up is the kiss of death for your motor !! Maybe a minute tops all you're doing is creating excessive moisture and wasting gas. As for the plugs, always start them by hand so you don't cross-thread them and hand tighten using a short handled ratchet. Snug is good - you don't want to strip threads. Probably not a good idea to use anti-sieze on the threads - makes it too easy to overtighten. Craig
 

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Can anyone chip in with near 2k rpm at 60 mph? That sounds a little high,when I compare it to my '03 Ody.
Ck that tranny fluid for level, clarity, color and smell and probably change those spark plugs with the recommended NGK or Denso.
I use anti-seize on my spark plugs, to lessen the chance of the threads causing damage to the head threads upon removal. But, NGK says you shouldn't use it. Your choice. I think there is some legal stuff going on there since some have stripped the threads in the head by using their miss-calibrated torque wrenches instead of 'feel' when using anti-seize.

Buffalo4
PS: Actually a fairly dirty engine air filter will only slightly affect your mpg since the computer does the air/fuel mixture. A pretty dirty filter, will however, affect your power under full throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A 10 minute warm-up is the kiss of death for your motor !! Maybe a minute tops all you're doing is creating excessive moisture and wasting gas. As for the plugs, always start them by hand so you don't cross-thread them and hand tighten using a short handled ratchet. Snug is good - you don't want to strip threads. Probably not a good idea to use anti-sieze on the threads - makes it too easy to overtighten. Craig

I never new that warming up a car on a cold day was a bad thing. Is that true of just the 4cyl crv's? Or is that not recommended for any Honda?

NGK Iridium plugs says not to use anti-sieze. There is a coating already on them as I understand it.

Also interested on the what RPMs others observe at 60mph. (Thanks Buffalo4!)
 

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I never new that warming up a car on a cold day was a bad thing.
Its not bad, just gas-wasteful. The best/quickest way to warm up a car is to DRIVE it (after a 30 sec warmup time). That way EVERYTHING is working, not just the engine.


OTOH I understand that folks like to jump into warm interiors on cold days, with the frost melted off the windows so they can see.... Hey, we can't ALL afford to keep our cars in garages.


Anyway, long periods of idling and stop and go traffic KILL gas mileage.
 

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Now, if it is really cold out and you start driving the vehicle after only 30 sec and the engine temp is only around 50F and you are going up a good long hill which makes the engine work hard, I personally don't think it is a good idea to do that. If you are only driving on the level with less than moderate throttle, fine.
I don't like to put much throttle into an engine loading situation unless my engine temp is at least 100F. I use an Ultra-gauge to get a fairly accurate temp report.
My opinion.
Buffalo4
PS: 20 below 0 and a 30 sec warmup? :eek:
 
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