Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

41 - 60 of 89 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Bringing this back!

Im planning to embark on a similar endeavor myself, and i had one question, is there any reason not to use the material below, for the cargo area and rear wheel well cover? Im pretty sure this material is already in the spare tire area, why not use more? I dont plan to do MLV in the doors, and i defiantly would not use this, but do plan yo CLD and tessa tape the crap out of the doors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MP-Global-Insulayment-33-ft-4-in-x-3-ft-x-1-8-in-Acoustical-Recycled-Fiber-Underlayment-INSUL100/100641168
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Bringing this back!

Im planning to embark on a similar endeavor myself, and i had one question, is there any reason not to use the material below, for the cargo area and rear wheel well cover? Im pretty sure this material is already in the spare tire area, why not use more? I dont plan to do MLV in the doors, and i defiantly would not use this, but do plan yo CLD and tessa tape the crap out of the doors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MP-Global-Insulayment-33-ft-4-in-x-3-ft-x-1-8-in-Acoustical-Recycled-Fiber-Underlayment-INSUL100/100641168
You are correct, it is in the wheel well. Also under front seats in forward wheel well.

I adopted the sound deadener showdown philosophy completely so didn't consider the material.

I can't say that won't work but I would have to Google around to find differences between this and mlv. Keep us posted with what you end up doing with pictures.

You could always email Don @ SDS and ask him too.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Bringing this back!

Im planning to embark on a similar endeavor myself, and i had one question, is there any reason not to use the material below, for the cargo area and rear wheel well cover? Im pretty sure this material is already in the spare tire area, why not use more? I dont plan to do MLV in the doors, and i defiantly would not use this, but do plan yo CLD and tessa tape the crap out of the doors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MP-Global-Insulayment-33-ft-4-in-x-3-ft-x-1-8-in-Acoustical-Recycled-Fiber-Underlayment-INSUL100/100641168
I would love to hear how material like this worked for you. I live in Canada and am having a very hard time finding MLV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
You are correct, it is in the wheel well. Also under front seats in forward wheel well.

I adopted the sound deadener showdown philosophy completely so didn't consider the material.

I can't say that won't work but I would have to Google around to find differences between this and mlv. Keep us posted with what you end up doing with pictures.

You could always email Don @ SDS and ask him too.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Also wanted to say, thank you for all the work you've done so far!

But from what I can tell, it should act similar, and appears to have a better STC rating (especially one the manufacture that includes an additional vapor barrier). However, with the materials being significantly different, I wonder which is better at blocking the sound frequencies created by road noise. I know with the 2006 Mercedes S class, they use a MDF style wood (maybe fiberglass??) in their door panels, which makes me think a harder/stiffer material is better, but we shall see.

Ill let everyone know how it goes. I just really hope I dont have any moisture issues with this VS MLV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
This below is too good to be true..


Depending on the road, I've measured an 8-10dB reduction in noise using a phone sound meter. 10dB is approximately equivalent to a 50% reduction in perceived noise level (Fechner's law ftw).

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,398 Posts
That home depot stuff looks like it would be great as long as it's dry. Get it wet and you'll be pulling everything out to avoid mold.
The dynamat/cLD/CCF TYPE stuff, is waterproof. Makes a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
This below is too good to be true..


Depending on the road, I've measured an 8-10dB reduction in noise using a phone sound meter. 10dB is approximately equivalent to a 50% reduction in perceived noise level (Fechner's law ftw).

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
Are you saying that you appreciate the outcome? Agreed, it was a lot of work.

Still have to finish one small area underneath the rear bench and floor behind front seats. Should help a tiny bit more.

Other large area is the firewall, which I don't know what to do to it without taking off the dash.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Are you saying that you appreciate the outcome? Agreed, it was a lot of work.

Still have to finish one small area underneath the rear bench and floor behind front seats. Should help a tiny bit more.

Other large area is the firewall, which I don't know what to do to it without taking off the dash.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
On my 2013 Fit i went in through the interior air intake on the outside of the car. The black plastic between the hood and the windshied came apart, and I was able to access the space pretty easily. I dropped in a couple sheets of MLV and it probably helped the most on that car.Maybe it might work on the CRV?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
On my 2013 Fit i went in through the interior air intake on the outside of the car. The black plastic between the hood and the windshied came apart, and I was able to access the space pretty easily. I dropped in a couple sheets of MLV and it probably helped the most on that car.Maybe it might work on the CRV?
Cool, I'll let you know soon enough!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Just finished the front driver door, and the cargo area. Took 10 hours. But i also do not have a garage, and did the cargo panels in my living room (see below)

I gotta say, the CDL i used (Killmat) worked great, and after the 2 areas, i still have about half of a 36sf box left. I did not do a complete coverage of all panels with the material, but the driver door was about 90%-95% coverage, and the cargo area was about 25%.

The undercarpet material used for a MLV replacement SUCKED!! Was very difficult to cut without jamming up my scissors, and was not easily cut with a razor blade. My past experience with traditional MLV was very easy to cut with scissors or a razor. Also my MLV felt like fiberglass with how much dust and itchyness it created. Did it work? Yes. But i would not use it again in the future. Im not mad, only because it was 1/4 the price of MLV. But it was effective in dampening the cargo area. Also acted as a natural decoupler.

Only used about 1/2 of a single roll of tessa tape. there were many cables in the CRV that I felt would not rattle after I opened it up. The cables felt pretty damn taught, and were well isolated as is.

Unlike Mnestrud, i built the "MLV" on the plastic panel vs the body of the vehicle. For me it was simpler, and more comfortable. Working in my living room vs sitting in the cargo area of the car. But im sure either way would work. But with my past experience with the FIT, knowing where random bumps would be (Caused by bottle/storage holders etc.) was life saving working off the panel.

One lesson learned was the rear cargo area can handle more than 1 layer of 1/8" MLV. It could probably fit 2 or 3 layers if you really want to press the panel clips back on. But with one layer, it clipped on with no problem.

I did have a HUGE issue getting the cargo panels back on however! The rear seat attachment was a huge barrier of easily reinstalling the rear panels. Maybe im doing it wrong, but it took all my might, and pressing against the roof and opposite side of the car to get the plastic plane to pop back into place. Once the panel was past the seat latches, clipping it in was easy. Maybe im doing it wrong, but my god, it was a bitch.

Otherwise, i will continue with my passenger and rear doors when i get some time. So far the bass response is better, but only just. Not a huge difference, but im holding any judgement until i atleast get the front passenger door complete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Just finished all of the doors, and the rear cargo area, and Ill say the mid-bass is defiantly more defined and feels more powerful. Feels slightly quieter, but most of the rough road noise is still noticeable. But this was pretty expected as its coming up through the floorboard.

All i have left is the trunk cover, but im waiting until i find some instruction on how to remove it because of how many clips there are in the middle, and i dont want to break my panel in half.

Overall, usage and tools I used are below.

36sf of CDL
1.5 rolls of tessa tape
100sf of "MLV" (still have plenty left)
Panel removal tools (Life saver)
#2 Phillips screw driver
1 roll of Velcro
91% alcohol
Paper towels
(2) Green clips
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
Just finished all of the doors, and the rear cargo area, and Ill say the mid-bass is defiantly more defined and feels more powerful. Feels slightly quieter, but most of the rough road noise is still noticeable. But this was pretty expected as its coming up through the floorboard.

All i have left is the trunk cover, but im waiting until i find some instruction on how to remove it because of how many clips there are in the middle, and i dont want to break my panel in half.

Overall, usage and tools I used are below.

36sf of CDL
1.5 rolls of tessa tape
100sf of "MLV" (still have plenty left)
Panel removal tools (Life saver)
#2 Phillips screw driver
1 roll of Velcro
91% alcohol
Paper towels
(2) Green clips
Cost for these supplies?

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
How much weight do you figure all this added to the vehicle?

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
For my setup probably 150lbs. Dakcudder used thinner mlv, which probably made it somewhat lighter.

I probably should have used thinner in some areas... The rear qps are snug. I also didn't use mlv on tailgate due to weight and motor, but maybe the thinner home Depot stuff is the way to go... Hmm... Too many projects!



Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
mnestrud,
Great post. It looks like you did a great job!
I have heard that a lot of noise comes from the roof. What would it take to do the headliner?
At highway driving, do you think the noise is from the road or engine? Must be quite dependent on the road surface?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
mnestrud,
Great post. It looks like you did a great job!
I have heard that a lot of noise comes from the roof. What would it take to do the headliner?
At highway driving, do you think the noise is from the road or engine? Must be quite dependent on the road surface?
Thanks! Nose is a little of both.

Headliner requires pulling all roof trim and a/b/c pillar panels. You can't use mlv in there, most use something like melamine foam or similar. This might be a late 2019 project... I wouldn't start there.

Most of the noise left in my car comes from rear floorboards underneath rear seat, which I haven't done yet and has minimal sound barrier, and engine. The interior firewall has that recycled fiber matting all the way up which is halfway decent.

Tires, Michelin premier ltx, are also fairly noisy but without finishing the floor it's hard to say what the final car will sound like.

As you sound proof one area, the sound shifts around. Engine sounds louder now than when I started, but obviously isn't. This is a sensory effect of sounds mixtures.

My goal is to have entire car underneath windows done, and then asses head liner.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
41 - 60 of 89 Posts
Top