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I subscribe to the old adage that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and in that light I suspect that a large part of road noise is transmitted to the unibody structure through the top mounts of the shock/strut towers, as well as other suspension attachment points. My plan when I get ready to do my audio upgrade and sound deadening in the Spring is to research how carmakers address this in more expensive vehicles, and see what might be done. My thinking is to possibly use some sort of composite or rubberized gasket material or sheet padding to sandwich in there to see if that makes a difference. It's just a thought, but I'm going to experiment with it if I can. If that works to any noticeable degree, I will then consider adding it at other suspension attachment points to the body. No idea if it will make any difference but something tells me it could. Anybody else tried it?
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I subscribe to the old adage that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and in that light I suspect that a large part of road noise is transmitted to the unibody structure through the top mounts of the shock/strut towers, as well as other suspension attachment points. My plan when I get ready to do my audio upgrade and sound deadening in the Spring is to research how carmakers address this in more expensive vehicles, and see what might be done. My thinking is to possibly use some sort of composite or rubberized gasket material or sheet padding to sandwich in there to see if that makes a difference. It's just a thought, but I'm going to experiment with it if I can. If that works to any noticeable degree, I will then consider adding it at other suspension attachment points to the body. No idea if it will make any difference but something tells me it could. Anybody else tried it?
I applaud the thinking and support you 100% in trying and reporting back!

Depending on how cold it gets this weekend I may finish the floor of the car. I do think the back seat floor is the most poorly insulated part.

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Last night I managed to line the bottom of the driver side with CLD tiles, and put a few layers of the carpet underlayment "relatively" easily. I just removed the bottom door trim, panel around the fuel/hood door lever, and the under panel of the steering wheel.I put 3 layers of underlayment and I dont think i noticed a bit of difference.

However, mnestrud is right, where the sound just becomes more pronounced elsewhere and overall the car still felt filled with sound. I was looking at the Accord touring the other day while getting my oil changed, and the entire underside of the vehicle under the driver side, and the entire wheel well was lined with felt material. That might explain why the Accord is a bit quieter. However the Accord is not a "quiet" car by any means.

At this point, i am at "polishing poop" mode. Im not sure how much more ill do, But if i get bored one weekend, i might revisit it.
 

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Finished infinity kappa tweeters by request:


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Hello new member from Australia here. This looks like a great forum for CRV owners.

I have just purchased a 2019 CRV and am very happy with the car except that it has a pretty poor audio system. Even the VW Golf I drove prior to this SUV had a reasonable stock system but this one borders on unlistenable at least for extended periods in peak hour traffic.

I have just started installing 2 pairs of Infinity Reference component speakers and have come across this thread. So far I have installed the woofer (using adapter mounts), and the crossover in the passenger door but am struggling as to how to mount the new tweeters as it seems that it will require a lot of modification to the plastic tweeter trim in order to get the new tweeters to mount. You seem to have resolved this issue and I would like to respectfully ask how you managed to do this?

Also were the rear tweeters mounted in a similar way and did you find there was enough room in the rear door to mount the crossover?

Thanks for any advice.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Hello new member from Australia here. This looks like a great forum for CRV owners.

I have just purchased a 2019 CRV and am very happy with the car except that it has a pretty poor audio system. Even the VW Golf I drove prior to this SUV had a reasonable stock system but this one borders on unlistenable at least for extended periods in peak hour traffic.

I have just started installing 2 pairs of Infinity Reference component speakers and have come across this thread. So far I have installed the woofer (using adapter mounts), and the crossover in the passenger door but am struggling as to how to mount the new tweeters as it seems that it will require a lot of modification to the plastic tweeter trim in order to get the new tweeters to mount. You seem to have resolved this issue and I would like to respectfully ask how you managed to do this?

Also were the rear tweeters mounted in a similar way and did you find there was enough room in the rear door to mount the crossover?

Thanks for any advice.

Rob
Hi Rob,

If the Infinity Reference are like the Kappa, the tweeters are a tiny bit too small for the hole - they "spin" around a little bit. This took a bit of trial and error to solve.

First try, I put a bead of silicone caulk around the speaker and shoved it in there, and then put another bead around the outside. That looks like this:

IMG_20180318_174704.jpg

This worked fine for a month or two but my problem was that the speaker didn't stay centered in the mount, it was ever so slightly crooked because the caulk wasn't strong enough.

So, using a similar strategy, I bought weather stripping - here is one that is 1/8" thick (not sure if this is the EXACT one) and wrapped it around the tweeter. This created a very tight fit that I was able to shove into the stock mount. I did a much cleaner silicone bead the 2nd time and remounted it. This has been there 16 months without a problem, and the same strategy was used in the front and rear.

For the crossover, I was able to find room in the door. I used double sided velcro, and it was mounted against the plastic door liner (sorry, I don't remember exactly where...)

If I end up going back in the doors I'll take some more pictures... a number of folks have questions about crossover mounting.

Good luck and take lots of pictures!
 

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Hi Mnestrud many thanks for your quick reply. I seem to have the opposite problem with mounting the tweeters as the diameter of the Infinity Reference tweeters are too large to fit into the supports of the tweeter mounts which means I would need to cut away all of the plastic mounting frame and then somehow mount the new tweeters and the original circular plastic ring shown in your photos above.

Has anyone else solved this problem?

'Also I assume the wire with the black stripe is the + wire?
 

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Perhaps buy a set of the "sails" to use for the larger tweeters...you can trim the excess away until they fit while still having an unaltered set to put back if needed in the future?
 

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Hi Mnestrud many thanks for your quick reply. I seem to have the opposite problem with mounting the tweeters as the diameter of the Infinity Reference tweeters are too large to fit into the supports of the tweeter mounts which means I would need to cut away all of the plastic mounting frame and then somehow mount the new tweeters and the original circular plastic ring shown in your photos above.

Has anyone else solved this problem?

'Also I assume the wire with the black stripe is the + wire?
I did that. The plastic is easy to trim. Yhe Pioneer tweeters I use have their own mounting ring, that covers the cut very weel, making all look better than than the original.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Not sure which wire you're talking about, though if you're talking about the leads from the amp/stereo to the doors, I'm not sure. I abandoned stock tweeter wires myself. The wires to the woofers are full-range so you can pass them through the crossover.
 

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Not sure which wire you're talking about, though if you're talking about the leads from the amp/stereo to the doors, I'm not sure. I abandoned stock tweeter wires myself. The wires to the woofers are full-range so you can pass them through the crossover.
I was referring to the wires coming from the infinity tweeters. One has clear PVC insulation and the other is clear with a black stripe.
As the power output of the factory head unit is pretty low I was just going to keep the pretty lightweight factory speaker wiring apart from extending the original wiring to the woofer and routing it through the crossover of course.
 

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I did that. The plastic is easy to trim. Yhe Pioneer tweeters I use have their own mounting ring, that covers the cut very weel, making all look better than than the original.
While the Infinity tweeters are too big to fit into the plastic mounting lugs on the rear of the triangular plastic corner piece the diameter of the hole in the middle of the clip in circular piece is greater than the diameter of the tweeter body which means it would just fall out unless restrained in some way. Probably not explaining it too well...……….anyway I was thinking of using a couple of drops from a hot glue gun to secure the tweeter body into place but not sure it regular hot glue sticks will work with ABS plastic too well. I'll have to experiment.
 

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Stock speaker spec?

Fantastic work and you where able to keep the ANC functioning properly, which is something I have not seen anybody else be able to do...
Rob
As long as no aftermarket amplifier involved with stock HU, ANC will cause no issue. The signal to the speaker is mixed with counter noise frequency up on 2000 RPM. The aftermarket amplifier just amplify everything, including this counter noise.

Btw, does anyone know the spec of our stock speakers? size, watts, sensitivity?
 

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Discussion Starter #74
As long as no aftermarket amplifier involved with stock HU, ANC will cause no issue. The signal to the speaker is mixed with counter noise frequency up on 2000 RPM. The aftermarket amplifier just amplify everything, including this counter noise.

Btw, does anyone know the spec of our stock speakers? size, watts, sensitivity?
Mostly true regarding ANC. If you replace your stock sub in the Touring, keeping the OEM amp, you need to disable ANC. I had wanted to keep ANC as well, but eventually my desire to fix the bass in the car (and the rest of the sound deadening) outweighed any perceived benefit from keeping ANC.

The impedance of the stock tweeters and door mids (6.5") are 4ohm. The stock sub is 8" & 2ohm. The impedance is directly from Honda Tech Info's speaker test documentation.

The amp puts out 4x45w and 150w to the sub, which is how we get to 330w system in the highest trim. It is unclear if those values are peak or RMS.

I haven't seen anyone publish frequency response or sensitivity of the stock speakers...

The aforementioned kappa's I installed have a impedence of 2ohm & 93dB sensitivity, which has been well more than enough to give the desired sound quality and volume from my system, especially when paired with the upgraded sub and tuned with Viper4Android
 

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Thanks for the info. I am researching on which component speakers I can get to replace those stockers without adding AMP. My guess those are max output 330 watts, RMS spec is never good in marketing as it is lower.
So did you add AMP to your car?

Mostly true regarding ANC. If you replace your stock sub in the Touring, keeping the OEM amp, you need to disable ANC. I had wanted to keep ANC as well, but eventually my desire to fix the bass in the car (and the rest of the sound deadening) outweighed any perceived benefit from keeping ANC.

The impedance of the stock tweeters and door mids (6.5") are 4ohm. The stock sub is 8" & 2ohm. The impedance is directly from Honda Tech Info's speaker test documentation.

The amp puts out 4x45w and 150w to the sub, which is how we get to 330w system in the highest trim. It is unclear if those values are peak or RMS.

I haven't seen anyone publish frequency response or sensitivity of the stock speakers...

The aforementioned kappa's I installed have a impedence of 2ohm & 93dB sensitivity, which has been well more than enough to give the desired sound quality and volume from my system, especially when paired with the upgraded sub and tuned with Viper4Android
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Thanks for the info. I am researching on which component speakers I can get to replace those stockers without adding AMP. My guess those are max output 330 watts, RMS spec is never good in marketing as it is lower.
So did you add AMP to your car?
No aftermarket amp, it's running off of the OEM Touring amp.

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@mnesrtrud...have you ever thought about applying sound deadening to the non exposed side of the wheel wells?
Great job with all you have done to date...
 

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Discussion Starter #78
@mnesrtrud...have you ever thought about applying sound deadening to the non exposed side of the wheel wells?
Great job with all you have done to date...
Thanks! Do you mean on the outside? There's some stock stuff there. Or where?

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Thanks! Do you mean on the outside? There's some stock stuff there. Or where?

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On the non visible side of the plastic wheel wells. I read on a post somewhere that someone did this and it cut down on road noise. Assume one would have to take off tire to remove the plastic liners but i did watch a video were a shop was doing this just not to a crv. Im going to work on the doors and see what else I get motivated to do..
 

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On the non visible side of the plastic wheel wells. I read on a post somewhere that someone did this and it cut down on road noise. Assume one would have to take off tire to remove the plastic liners but i did watch a video were a shop was doing this just not to a crv. Im going to work on the doors and see what else I get motivated to do..
I'm intrigued... I definitely have left over material. Good luck with the doors, and report back if you take the tires off.

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