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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 Honda CR-V 4x4 that has started stalling. It stalls when it's warm. The ignition switch wiring harness has been replaced and I do not suspect that as the cause. It runs perfect and then flat out quits out on the road. All indicator lights are working so, I'm not suspecting the main relay. Once it stalls it will crank over but not start for a few minutes. I am suspecting the igniter or distributor. Could also be a coil but, I think that's less likely. The symptoms are not what I have experienced with a fuel system issue. No sputter, no rough running, no loss of power. The fuel filter gets changed about every three years or so. It goes from running perfect to engine off in a split second. It feels like the ignition suddenly loses spark and as I sit here I feel certain that's what it is. But, I'm not sure of the exact cause. I also think that it's possible that the issue is a crank shaft sensor but, no codes, no check engine light. Which points me back to the distributor/igniter or coil.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I may....may have this fixed. I replaced the distributor today and then ran errands in the car. Not a problem. As some of you already know, the distributor contains the ICM and the coil. I figured the best way to deal with this was to just do the whole thing including a new rotor button and cap. I used a rebuilt unit from NAPA and new button and cap. One note, the rebuilt unit had been painted or something..I had to run a tap down through the threads so I could screw the cap down. With core exchange the whole repair was under $300.00. I have seen a lot of people with this exact complaint so I thought it important to post a follow up.

This car is my ride back and forth to work so I can't have any down time with it. As in most houses my wife drives the nice, new car....
 

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Thanks for posting back the fix. Its good that you have gotten a Remanufactured one from NAPA. As I have seen many new distributor that are offshore made that does not last as long as the remanufactured one. Most likely its the ICM that is going bad. The coil may go bad if the ICM or Igniter is going bad & will damage the coil. I have replaced many Igniter from Acura to Honda. There are several manufacturers of Igniter for Honda/Acura the latest ones are made by NEC. Others Hitachi & OKI. Did the Tach started acting funny when the engine is about to die?
 

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Had a very similar problem on a 2000 CRV and it turned out to be the igniter. An igniter will fail after it gets hot, many times. A coil that is failing will cause hard starting many times. Unfortunately those are not always the case. I also had to replace the ignition coil later.
If I had to bet on the cause of your problem, I would have put my money on the igniter.
Happy to hear you got if going again.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
It's fixed, or so it seems. Runs perfect with the remanufactured distributor and hasn't acted up in 2.5 days. The install is a piece of cake. Just clean out the threads on the reman dist for the cap screws. I also had an oil leak from the distributor mount so I fixed that as a by product. I hope to be still driving this old CRV in 4 years.

Yea, I have seen those cheap distributors on ebay and I can't trust a part that cheap. The reman part was like, $259.00 at NAPA and I used a new cap and rotor button. I trust that out on the interstate. I can't trust a brand new $69.00 dollar distributor. I have used a butt load of parts from NAPA in my lifetime and only had one failure and that was a new radiator that was cracked out of the box. It started leaking immediately so, I exchanged it (after some chin music from NAPA). They acted like they wanted to stick me with the $300.00 dollar, brand new, busted radiator. But, that's another topic.

It was probably the igniter but, I didn't have time for it to keep breaking down so I changed the whole business. This is my daily driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just an update.. A few days after the distributor repair the check engine light came on (never got a light for the distributor). I checked it with my reader and it was the catalytic converter, PO420. I had it replaced 9 years ago at Meineke so, I went back and they put a new one on. My old CRV is running like a champ now. I have ordered new stabilizer end links from RockAuto, all 4 for 30 bucks plus shipping. I figure with all this work on the car I will need to be driving it a couple more years to get my monies worth out of it. I have put 75,000 miles on this car and never been stranded (for more than a few minutes). I think I'll try to put another 30-40,000 on it. Plus, it's already set up to be towed behind my old camper.
 
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