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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys! My 2007 CRV with about 135k on it. The other day I heard slight ticks when I would start it. I thought I was hearing something or that it was nothing. Well today after work I tried to start it up and it just ticked/clicked rapidly and wouldn’t start. However all the electronics worked and it doesn’t seem to be battery related. I just had the alternator replaced 2 months ago as well. I went inside and back out again within 2 minutes and it started right up.

I’m thinking it may just be the starter relay or the switch...I really hope it’s not the starter. Any help on this would be very appreciated. I’m just hoping it starts to get me to and from work tomorrow.

Let me know if you need any more details!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: First morning startup started up completely normal. No clicking at all. Will keep updating.


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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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Weak battery (how old? Have you checked the electrolyte?) or perhaps a loose terminal clamp.



Check the easy/common stuff first, before visiting the ATM! :Darn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am currently on my way to auto-zone to get the battery, starter, and alternator tested. We will see! Two completely normal starts this morning so far…
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The battery, alternator, and starter were all fine and passed the check. What else could it be? Ignition switch? I bought a six dollar starter relay cut-off to try that. That’s my main suspicion right now. Any ideas?


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bought it used in March so it’s tough to say how old the battery is. Looks fairly new. Cables look good. Clamps look good. I have not checked the battery water levels yet though. Will do that next.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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If it just 'clicks' sometimes but crank at normal speeds other times, I'm going with battery or starter connections. I've seen terminals that were as tight as they would go but could still be twisted. That indicates the need for battery terminal shims.

Make sure there is a good ground between engine and battery terminal. (Sometimes those wires are left disconnected or loose when a car is serviced)



That Gen CR-V did not have ignition switch issues like the Gen1s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update: I have yet to find anything wrong yet. I got a video where you can barely hear it as it starts up. It starts up without that click sound 7/10 times. Once a week or so it will not start on the first try, then will on the second. That has only happened twice though.

Absolutely no problem with battery terminals or cables. (Haven’t checked the starter cables...not even sure where to begin there).

https://youtu.be/kaL4pMhBVUw


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My '07 did similar...

I'm having the same illness with my 2008.....Where is the starter relay? I am going to start with that first...
My wife got the clicking but not me. Took it to dealer who said Honda knows of issue but will not fix it, just turn switch faster!

Try this, turn ignition switch very slow toward Start and see if you hear clicking from under left side of dash. That is the ignition relay clicking because the switch is not making good contact. It works to turn switch faster, for awhile. Better to turn key one position, then briskly to start. Around 100K it behaved similar but it was starter.

BTW Honda reman'd starter is cheaper than a new one but with MUCH BETTER warranty of 3 years 36K miles. New warranty is only 90 days.

A few months and thousands miles later the switch got really bad and had to replace it also.

Switch is around $50 and previous models and Accords you had to take steering column loose - the bolts are tamper-proof where the heads twist off so to remove them one must use a chisel! NOT ON THE '07 and later CR-V! You can get to the screws for the switch without taking the column loose!

Uh, the starter switch and the key tumbler/Immobilizer are two different pieces. Immobilizer is bolted to steering column and tough to get out. The switch is held against the end of the Immobilizes with three screws.

Search on this site for the post with details to change the switch.
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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The first thing I check when there's a problem is to see if it is related to other work that was done recently. So, if your alternator was recently replaced, I would look there first. Is the new alternator working right? Was it installed correctly - are the connections in good shape and tight, etc.? After that look at battery cables and their connection points to the battery (they were unhooked when alternator was replaced), and at their other ends, at body ground points and starter, and then relays and fuses/fusible links, etc.

Last year I started having a sort of similar issue with my F250. Took it to my mechanic, who could find nothing specific, but said the battery was a little weak, so he replaced the battery. I went to pick it up, and on the way home it died on me, in traffic. Peachy! He came and got me with a wrecker. Turned out the alternator had gotten stuck in super-duper-ultra-charge mode when I left the shop and fried itself, the new battery, and the starter. It all had to be replaced, including another new battery, which he got warrantyed for me. That was a thousand dollar fiasco, mainly because I went with super heavy duty new parts.


In the past with issues like this I've found a glitchy ignition switch (caused by a bad tilt column bushing!), a bad starter solenoid, bad starter relay, loose pin in the alternator harness connector (fixed with a toothpick!), a battery cable with an internal break, an actual broken battery post (inside the battery!), a loose/corroded starter cable connection, etc. Also, a bad starter will try to draw too many amps, overstressing the ignition circuit, and me.


Downunder47 - Thanks for that info on the reman warranty! Good to know. Makes me want to check for that possibility on all Honda electrical goods from now on.
 

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It is even better for the compressor.

Downunder47 - Thanks for that info on the reman warranty! Good to know. Makes me want to check for that possibility on all Honda electrical goods from now on.
A Honda reman'd compressor is around $50 cheaper than a new one but it comes with new clutch and coil saving another $200 and the 36-month, 36K mile warranty on parts and labor if you have a dealer put it in.

I had a dealer put one in my '07. They did the installation with new "O" rings , purge the system, gas fill, and test the system with 36-month, 36K mile warranty for parts and labor for just under $800!

I do not know if one must have a dealer do the installation to get the warranty.

I do not know if this applies to the alternator and hope to not find out?
 
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