[jakecrv2002]

I have a few questions regarding struts. I was told a couple of years ago that my right front strut was leaking. Well it has gotten worse, so I'm thinking I'll replace all four at the same time. Does Honda sell the entire assembly, or just the strut itself? The Monroe Quick Struts look very appealing, does anyone have an opinion on them? I would like to do this job myself, how hard of a task overall is it? BTW, my CR-V has 111xxx miles on it, I was told today that 100k is about the norm for Honda struts. I'm sure it varies greatly depending on the terrain the vehicle has been driven over...

 

[DIY Guy]

I didn't think it was hard. I replaced the dust boots on both my front struts and reinstalled them. It took me about an hour start to finish to do both sides. And that was compressing the spring to remove the dust boot.

100K miles seems to be a stretch in the lifespan of a strut. Typically they say shocks and struts should be changed about every 50k. I personally go no more than 60k.

My guess would be that Honda would just sell the strut itself. You can probably rent a spring compressor from an auto parts store. Or buy one and have it for the future. They start at around $40.

I would also suggest spraying every nut and bolt a day or two in advance with a rust penetrant to aid in disassembly. Unless you have an impact gun.

 

[jakecrv2002]

Thanks a lot!

Does anyone have any opinion on OEM Honda struts vs. Monroe Quick Struts? I think Monroe is the only company that sell the entire assembly, correct?

 

[DIY Guy]

There are others out there that sell the whole assembly. You may just want to check your local auto parts store, or even Amazon. As far as one being better than the other that may be personal preference without any scientific data.

 

[COSMOS-1]

I considered the Monroe quick struts and have ruled them out, Honda OEM, KYB, or Sachs are on my list right now, Sachs with a twin tube design are on top right now and the cost between the Sachs and OEM is negligible.

From Rockauto

Shock Absorber Twin-Tube; Type:Gas Pressure

The SACHS Super Touring range is aimed at drivers who like to do their daily driving without problems and their holiday driving with ease – thus expecting high safety and comfort. In city traffic, on country roads and on the highway.

 

[bobquincy]

I have a few questions regarding struts. I was told a couple of years ago that my right front strut was leaking. Well it has gotten worse, so I'm thinking I'll replace all four at the same time. Does Honda sell the entire assembly, or just the strut itself? The Monroe Quick Struts look very appealing, does anyone have an opinion on them? I would like to do this job myself, how hard of a task overall is it? BTW, my CR-V has 111xxx miles on it, I was told today that 100k is about the norm for Honda struts. I'm sure it varies greatly depending on the terrain the vehicle has been driven over...

You will need torque wrenches for : lower strut bolts; upper strut bolts; tie rod lock nuts (crows foot wrench for torquing); some means to align the wheels. To change the struts (if you don't buy assembled ones) you will also need a spring compressor and often some means of holding the strut shaft while torquing the upper nut (without scratching the strut shaft).

Mostly the same for the rear except you may be amazed at the wide camber specification and want some camber adjusters to get both wheels at a similar setting.

It took me about 8 hours to change all four.

 

[jakecrv2002]

Thanks everyone for all of your help so far. I don't have the means to compress springs, and really don't want to mess with that anyway, so a complete assembly is really my only option. I got a quote of $1200 from a local shop to replace all four struts with Monroes. I'm going to save myself some money and do it myself. I'm thinking the Monroe Quick-Struts may be my best bet right now...

 

[jakecrv2002]

Ok guys, I ended up going with the Monroe Quick-Struts. I installed them Friday, and so far have been very pleased. Installation was fairly straightforward, with the exception of a slightly corroded/rusted lower bolt on the driver's rear strut. It took me about 5 hours to do the job. Every bolt was torqued to the specs from my Chilton manual. Quick question, how long will it take for the springs to 'settle'? There were stcikers on each one stating that the springs would setle, but it did not state how long that would take. I want to wait for that to happen before I decide on an alignment.

 

[jakecrv2002]

*2 week update*

I got an alignment done a week ago. She is straight as an arrow now. Right before the alignment I went back and checked the torques on all the fasteners. Everything was still tight. I am having an issue though. When I go over uneven surfaces, the rear creaks. What could this be? I went and put white lithium grease on all the rubber bushings, both front and back and that didn't help anything. The front end is quiet as can be, but the rear is a different story. Visually, everything looks fine. Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

[Carbuff2]

I am having an issue though. When I go over uneven surfaces, the rear creaks. What could this be?

Most likely, sway bar bushings (slipping from being at 'full droop' during your strut change). I'd go for broke and replace the end-links also (tho' this causes clucking rather than creaking).

 

[jakecrv2002]

Most likely, sway bar bushings (slipping from being at 'full droop' during your strut change). I'd go for broke and replace the end-links also (tho' this causes clucking rather than creaking).

Thanks for the reply! Are you talking about the bushings that connect it to the body? Because I did take those apart and grease them, and they were in great shape. The sway bar is the little 3/4" bar that runs the width of the rear, correct? What is the much larger tube that the bottom of the struts connect to called? I wonder if that is creaking...

 

[Carbuff2]

The struts are connected to the "Lower Arm" #15/16 on the diagram below.

The sway bar (#6) is connected by the two bushings #7, these ARE NOT supposed to be greased. They are supposed to be held tight and just twist. If they slip, they creak. (Same with the bushings on the lower arms)

The sway bar End Links are #10.

I got the picture from Bernardiparts.com

 

[jakecrv2002]

Ok thanks for your insight Buff. I know that my swag bar bushings and end links are in near new condition. Everything is good and tight under there. I think it has to be the struts themselves creaking. I will try to shoot a video in the next couple days. Could it be the top of the struts where they mount to the body?

 

[Carbuff2]

Sorry, no experience with bad strut mountings.

Our factory front struts have 'grunted' since the first winter, but I know what it is, so I never fixed it. 160K miles on the car now...

 

[jakecrv2002]

No worries Buff, I'm going to shoot a video of the noise sometime this week so we can all hear it. Now it's time to kick back and enjoy some football!

 

[downloader]

it could be the links, they might be tight with no play, but dry inside. If you can dis-connect then and go for a road test

 

[jakecrv2002]

it could be the links, they might be tight with no play, but dry inside. If you can dis-connect then and go for a road test

What's a good way to disconnect them without them spinning?

 

[WVCR-V]

I wish I had seen this post in time. I just installed Monroe quick struts on the rear of my Cr-v and really disliked them. I have since installed KYB struts with the OEM springs and the difference is night and day. I am going to make a post about it.

 

[jakecrv2002]

I wish I had seen this post in time. I just installed Monroe quick struts on the rear of my Cr-v and really disliked them. I have since installed KYB struts with the OEM springs and the difference is night and day. I am going to make a post about it.

The front ones have been fine, but the rears are a completely different story. Did your rear Monroes creak?

 

[jakecrv2002]

Ok guys I believe I have this narrowed down to the right rear strut. I tried taking a video of the noise, but you couldn't hear it. Anyway, when I take my floor jack and slowly raise and lower the entire rear of the vehicle, the noise is definitely coming from the right side. I tried putting my hand on the strut itself while doing this, and I could feel a slight vibration. It could just be the strut itself. I may try contacting Monroe to see what they have to say.