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I just wanted to share my experience with installing a powered sub into my 2017 EXL. Like many, I wasn’t happy with the limited bass and wanted to upgrade. I knew nothing about any of this before tackling this project. So I was digging deep wherever I could to find information. So I wanted to give back and share what I learned.

After the negative lead on the battery was disconnected, I began the work of installing the power wire. I purchased the Crutchfield CK10 10-gauge amplifier power wiring kit for all my power wiring. Getting the power wire through the firewall involved removing the glove compartment. Don’t be intimidated. It was relatively easy. I ended up finding directions from College Hills Honda for an unrelated part. They were very helpful for the stereo removal as well. Here is the link:

Once I had the glove compartment removed, I popped a bamboo skewer through the firewall. I tried cutting with a utility knife and fishing with a coat hanger, but I had the best success with the skewer. Once through, I fished it out from the glove compartment side, duct taped the power line on it, and pulled it through on the engine side. I spliced in the fuse, secured that to the battery compartment with a zip tie and connected to the battery.

Running the power down the side of the CRV was straight forward and very easily done. I didn’t have to pop off any of the trim, but if you have to, it’s very easily done.

After routing the power line back, I found a good paint-free bolt to undo and attach the ground to.

Before I reinstalled the glove compartment, I unhooked the Active Noise Cancelation box which is on the glover compartment frame closest to the passenger door. I learned how do to this on this forum so do a search if you need more help. But this would be the time to do it.

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With the power run, it was now time to get radio signal to the sub from the stock radio. I purchased 16 gauge wire speaker wire from Amazon for this. Many powered subs have a high-level input (speaker wire) or a low-level input (RCA jacks). The benefits of running high-level from my perspective are: 1. No remote wire is needed to turn on/off the sub. High-level input senses a single and turns the amp/sub on automatically. 2. No line converter is needed to have to turn the single and the line into RCA plugs.

I needed to splice into the front speaker speakers so I removed the head unit. This was a trick and was harder than the firewall for me. There is next to no give in the wire harness for the head unit. Make sure you put down some kind of towel on the shifter. You don’t want to mess anything up. After taking my time, and more than a few deep breaths, I got the radio unhooked. It prepped my speaker wire for the sub by labeling them right and left and then spliced into the radio harness using Posi-Products Tap-It Wire Connectors that I got from Crutchfield - the blue ones (16-18 gauge).

After some digging online, the wires I needed to splice into were:
Front Left + PINK
Front Left - BLUE
Front Right + RED
Front Right - BLUE

To get the right “blue” follow the order as it’s installed linearly on the harness Pink, Blue, Red, Blue.

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I fished these wires to the opposite side of the car from the power wire, and used the College Hills PDF again to show me the best way to get the access I needed to keep the cords out of the way of the steering column. Running the wires was again quite easy and met up with the power wires in the back from the other side.

I purchased the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Sub (10”). I originally purchased the JBL Basspro SL hoping I could hide it some where. But I couldn’t find a good hiding spot and the bass performance was almost imperceptible. So I attached my speaker wire to supplied high-level input harness with Posi-Products Wiring Harness Connectors. Both these Posi products worked perfectly. And I attached the power and ground to a quick release that comes with the sub.

It was time to put the radio back together and clean everything up. I reattached the negative lead to the battery and started the car. To my surprise, every conceivable warning light came on. As it turns out, you have to drive 100 feet to have the car recalibrate. It only took me an hour to figure that out, so hopeful I’ve saved someone some time with that.

Everything checked out and I now had bass! After tweaking the gain, and crossovers, I wrapped the wires with 1/2” flex tube, wrapped it with some electrical tape and called it good. I also used a velcro strap to secure it in place.

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The 10” sub is prefect for the Honda. The quick releases for the speaker and power wires are perfect for when you want to put the seats down and remove the sub. I think it turned out great. Hopefully this consolidates some information and helps you guys in your pursuit to give your Honda a little extra power in the bass department.
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