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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently upgraded my head unit to aPioneer MVH-8200BT and love it. Realized the stock speakers couldn't handle the 22watt RMS output, so figured I would upgrade them as well. The HU also has a setting where it can set the rear speakers as subwoofers. This was great news! I figured I could just replace the rear speakers with 6.5in subs and everything would be great.

I'm trying to replace them withPyle PLG64's, and have run into a world of problems. They don't fit right for starters (drilling time), and when I connected them for a test... they crackle. One is much worse than the other, it sounds like the speaker is grinding up against something, making a loud cracking noise when I turn them up. Anyone know what may be causing this? Or was this just a terrible idea?

Also, for the front speakers, I ordered these Pioneer 220-Watt 3 way speakers. Don't know if they will fit, they haven't gotten here yet.

Anyone have any ideas on what to do with these 6.5in subs? Are they even worth my time? I'll have some pictures up after I find a way of installing them with more than just one screw (leaving them dangling).

Specs:
Head Unit:pioneer
Max Power Output:
MOFSET 50W X 4
70W X 1/2Ω (For Subwoofer)
Continuous Power Output
22W X 4 (1kHz, 5% THD, 4Ω Load, both channels drivin)
Load Impedance
4Ω (4Ω to 8Ω (2Ω for 1 channel) allowable
Pre-out Max Output
4V
Subwoofer (Mono)
Slope: -18dB/OCT
Oh yeah, if anyone could explain what the hell all this "Ω" stuff means.. I would appreciate greatly! (Pretty much every spec underneath 50w X 4 is a mystery to me)
 

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Ohms is a measure of impedance (think along the lines of resistance). Amps are designed to work stable at certain ohms. Most mono-block (class d) amps run a 4 to 2 ohms, with some being able to go down to 1 ohm. If you run one rated for 2 ohms at the lowest end at 1 ohm, while you may get a bit more power out of it you'll more than likely overheat it or burn the amp up.

For most 2 channel amps, each channel can run down to 2 ohms, but if you bridge the amp it can only do 4 ohms. So you'd want to make sure you get a sub that matches (or vice versa.. figure out what sub(s) you want and then which amp matches up with the ohms you'll be running the subs at as well as puts out as much RMS power as the sub(s) can handle (RMS) or a bit more than the subs can handle and turn the gain down a bit.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using AutoGuide App
 

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The HU also has a setting where it can set the rear speakers as subwoofers. This was great news! I figured I could just replace the rear speakers with 6.5in subs and everything would be great.

it sounds like the speaker is grinding up against something, making a loud cracking noise when I turn them up. Anyone know what may be causing this? Or was this just a terrible idea?
I bet that the crackling sound that you are hearing is the headunit's amp clipping rather than a defect with the "sub". Clipping occurs when amps are "strained".

You need a heck of a lot more power than 22W RMS power to cleanly drive a sub, even a small 6.5" one. You will need an external amp that will put out at least 100W RMS.

Or was this just a terrible idea?
With all due respects, it is. Even if you had a powerful amp driving them, mounting subs (even expensive ones) in the doors will not produce good sounding bass because the car doors are not rigid enough. That is why subs are normally mounted in heavy boxes. Doors are just thin metal (would vibrate too much).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the replys! The one sound that was making the most cracking noise seems to be defective.. I push down on the speaker, I can hear a static-like sound. The other one doesn't do this. So I'm pretty sure the sub is defective.

Anyways, I have one woofer set to 125 and lower, and will probably add a larger subwoofer into the trunk. I think I'll keep the two of these as mid woofers... or just replace them with the stock speakers. I have no idea how i'll get the pioneers to fit the door panels... i just hope they will
 
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