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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I always hear about people replacing the front sway bar bushings, but never to much about the rears.

Are the bushings for the front the same size as the rear? I'll be changing my end links this Saturday and wanted to do the bushings on the sway bars as well.

Thanks!
 

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Sorry I misread your question the first time. The front & rear bushings seem to have different part numbers.

I'll tell the story of my suspension noise. I've just found & joined this group so I hope it will be use to somebody.

My rear suspension was going clunk clunk, esp on the right side, so I replaced the 2 rear swaybar links. I've replaced links on other cars before so I knew the drill. The left one had already been replaced by the previous owner (I've had the car for 1.5 years.) The right was definitely worn out. You could feel the play when you pulled on it with your hand.

That quieted the rear :) ; now I could hear less violent clunking in the right front :( . So I got a front link (the dealer had only 1 in stock) and replaced the right. It didn't help. So I tried pushing & pulling various front suspension parts; when I pounded on the sway bar with my hand I could hear a definite clunking that sounded like what I heard in the car, so I decided to change the sway bar bushings as well. I ordered 2 from a website not realizing they are 2 in a pack so I got 4 bushings.

This morning I got the wrench and proceeded to break off both the bolts on the right sway bar bracket :eek: . Not good. So I got ready to drill out the old bolts. To get clearance I jacked up the right front corner. I didn't realize with 1 front wheel up the car would roll (my driveway is on a slope). It only moved a couple inches before I lowered the jack & stopped it (the wheel was still on the car), but the jack rolled over the bushing bracket and pinched it 1/2 shut:mad: .

Anyway to get to the end of the story I drilled out the old broken bolts and tapped the holes for 3/8 inch bolts, twisted & hammered the bracket close to the original shape, installed a new bushing and bolted it all back together. And it worked: no more clunking in the front. I'm going to get a new bracket at the dealer someday & finish the job right.

Question: would an impact wrench have removed the bracket bolts, or would it just have twisted them off faster? :confused: I'm always interested in a reason to buy another tool. Both bolts came out about 2 full turns before breaking.
 

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Welcome To The Club!

Thanks for the information and welcome to the club. Its hard to say whether an impact wrench would make your situation better or worse. The hammer blow action may work for you or against you. My guess is that you are probably correct, you would just bind them faster. Generally what I have found helpful but not foolproof, loosen them until you feel some resistance then tighten them a little and spray on some penetrating oil. Loosen, tighten, loosen back and forth and keep them soaked with penetrating oil. Again welcome to the club.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry I misread your question the first time. The front & rear bushings seem to have different part numbers.

I'll tell the story of my suspension noise. I've just found & joined this group so I hope it will be use to somebody.

My rear suspension was going clunk clunk, esp on the right side, so I replaced the 2 rear swaybar links. I've replaced links on other cars before so I knew the drill. The left one had already been replaced by the previous owner (I've had the car for 1.5 years.) The right was definitely worn out. You could feel the play when you pulled on it with your hand.

That quieted the rear :) ; now I could hear less violent clunking in the right front :( . So I got a front link (the dealer had only 1 in stock) and replaced the right. It didn't help. So I tried pushing & pulling various front suspension parts; when I pounded on the sway bar with my hand I could hear a definite clunking that sounded like what I heard in the car, so I decided to change the sway bar bushings as well. I ordered 2 from a website not realizing they are 2 in a pack so I got 4 bushings.

This morning I got the wrench and proceeded to break off both the bolts on the right sway bar bracket :eek: . Not good. So I got ready to drill out the old bolts. To get clearance I jacked up the right front corner. I didn't realize with 1 front wheel up the car would roll (my driveway is on a slope). It only moved a couple inches before I lowered the jack & stopped it (the wheel was still on the car), but the jack rolled over the bushing bracket and pinched it 1/2 shut:mad: .

Anyway to get to the end of the story I drilled out the old broken bolts and tapped the holes for 3/8 inch bolts, twisted & hammered the bracket close to the original shape, installed a new bushing and bolted it all back together. And it worked: no more clunking in the front. I'm going to get a new bracket at the dealer someday & finish the job right.

Question: would an impact wrench have removed the bracket bolts, or would it just have twisted them off faster? :confused: I'm always interested in a reason to buy another tool. Both bolts came out about 2 full turns before breaking.

Do you happen to know the part number for the rear bushings or a site that I can find the number?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just found the part number. Thanks for the info and be careful jacking up your car!
 

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Question: would an impact wrench have removed the bracket bolts, or would it just have twisted them off faster? :confused: I'm always interested in a reason to buy another tool.

A great thing about working on cars is,


You get to buy new tools, ;)

and

Your kids get to learn new words. :eek:




The answer to your question is "Maybe" :rolleyes:

BP is correct, if hardware binds after two full turns it was probably corrosion on the threads and they might have broken anyway. The back and forth/lubrication method works as well as any. I use Armor All as a penetrator these days, it works GREAT.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A great thing about working on cars is,


You get to buy new tools, ;)

and

Your kids get to learn new words. :eek:




The answer to your question is "Maybe" :rolleyes:

BP is correct, if hardware binds after two full turns it was probably corrosion on the threads and they might have broken anyway. The back and forth/lubrication method works as well as any. I use Armor All as a penetrator these days, it works GREAT.
Hahaha!!! I am so buying some new tools today to change my sway bar links and the bushings. My girlfriend doesn't know it yet. Shhhhhhh!!!! She's right here and her eyes are wondering over to the screen. LOL!!!!

See ya guys!!!
 

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Had pretty much the same thing happen . After the two turns or so the bolts froze. Pulled out the impact and " SNAP" !! I had to do it again on the next one to be sure..... Sprayed remaining bolts with deep creep and now PB blaster and am soaking the rest of them for a day or two. I think I'll try the wet ones first and see how they go . Going to give them all a smack or two with a hammer and then hit them with the torch . I'll then look at drilling out the broken bolts. I would like to replace all with new same size & type , does anyone know what that is ?
 

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Checked my service manual and it looks like the front bushing bolts are listed as 8 x 1.25 mm and the rear just say 8 mm so i don't know the thread pitch of those. If you can manage to get one of each out you can compare the 2. I see no length listed for either.

One tip for removing bolts without breaking them is to unscrew until you hit resistance and then tighten it all the way back down. Just work it back and forth and spray on plenty of penetrating oil and cross your fingers and you can normally work them loose.

Remember to have the vehicle flat on the ground on all 4 tires when tightening any bolts attached to rubber bushings so the bushings will be tightened down in their normal relaxed state.
 
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